T1n Rear Door Adjustment Issues (won’t close flush)

leviallen

Member
Hey team, I’ve been struggling with the adjustments on my rear door since I bought that van 4 years ago.

I’m looking for some input or ideas on how to solve this.


https://youtu.be/d_f1NE-xFpU
Here is a quick video showing the problem.


I’ve tried all the different set screw adjustments and just can’t get a snug close.

I’ve gone and actually replaced the door with one from a wrecker, I’ve replaced every hinge (old ones were seizing anyways)

And yet the problem persists. I can usually get it right, but then 3-4 closes later, it no longer goes flush.


I’m willing to create a shim of some kind, just not sure that will actually solve it. I’ve even considered creating a latch to pull it closed from the inside to stop the Canadian winter air from coming in...
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Have you scribed a line on the striker+catch pin? If you don't get it tight enough they have a tendency to move.

There is a Mercedes document that gives a step-by-step process to adjust the door , have you followed this in order?

When the door is closed is it closed firmly or it doesn't have rattling looseness on the latch?
 

gilee

2006 Sprinter 2500 Camper
Hey team, I’ve been struggling with the adjustments on my rear door since I bought that van 4 years ago.

I’m looking for some input or ideas on how to solve this.


https://youtu.be/d_f1NE-xFpU
Here is a quick video showing the problem.


I’ve tried all the different set screw adjustments and just can’t get a snug close.

I’ve gone and actually replaced the door with one from a wrecker, I’ve replaced every hinge (old ones were seizing anyways)

And yet the problem persists. I can usually get it right, but then 3-4 closes later, it no longer goes flush.


I’m willing to create a shim of some kind, just not sure that will actually solve it. I’ve even considered creating a latch to pull it closed from the inside to stop the Canadian winter air from coming in...
I have the exact same problem leviallen... I been trying for a long time and I gave up.
I have the same issue on the side sliding doors..... :bash:
If you can find a solution, please share, I am sure it can help alot of people!
THANK YOU!
 

leviallen

Member
Have you scribed a line on the striker+catch pin? If you don't get it tight enough they have a tendency to move.

Embarrassing to say I haven’t made any catch pin adjustments. I’m sure that will help. It’s funny because I spent so much time
making sure the sliding passenger door hit the catch pin at the right spot. And didn’t cross my mind that it could be affecting the top of the rear doors. Especially as they closed snug lower down.

Going to make some adjustments now.
Also found that document http://www.sprinter-rv.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/T1N_Sprinter_Door-Adjustment-with-Hinges1.pdf




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

leviallen

Member
Another couple hours of fiddling and I got a better flush close, but can’t get the gap right up at the top. If I have the gap right, then they don’t close flush again....





https://youtu.be/a-HUk52CTgY

Thanks for the help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
I swear it takes a geometry degree to adjust these...?

I start by slacking the upper striker pins, then closing the driver’s side door and adjusting to get the outer edge straight.
Next adjust the striker pin so that the midline is flush at the centre. Finally adjust the right door hinges to get the upper and lower inner corners to match. Last step is readjusting the top strike pins.

It helps me if I picture the doors tilting along their diagonal lines as the hinge stops move in and out from the door frame, such that moving the upper hinge stop out pushes the lower middle corner in, and moving the lower hinge stop out moves the top middle corner in. Then moving both hinges together adjusts the outer and upper edge pressure.

-dave
 

leviallen

Member
I swear it takes a geometry degree...

Great tips Dave! Something clicked for me yesterday while adjusting, similar to what you described. I’m now having to decide on if it’s necessary to get it perfect, or if I should just settle for “good enough”
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Mine are never perfectly flat. I am looking mostly for an even gap, but more importantly, the seal to be well compressed all around.

If you still have sealing issues, you can always get a generic bulb seal, and glue it around the space between the door and frame.

There is a fine line with the pin adjustment. Too far and it wont latch without slamming, to near and it will rattle, or not seal properly. A lot depends on how firm the center seal strip is.

The pin also wears against the catch, I found that putting a slightly thicker washer under the pin can allow it to rotate to a different resting position away from the worn area. Be careful not to loose the captive nut behind the plate...
 
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Zundfolge

Always learning...
Great tips Dave! Something clicked for me yesterday while adjusting, similar to what you described. I’m now having to decide on if it’s necessary to get it perfect, or if I should just settle for “good enough”
(IMO) absolutely every single thing on a T1N will only ever at its utmost best be, "good enough" :smilewink:

Thanks for all this info, it makes me realize that I can actually do something about my F%$@*ing back doors :)
 

leviallen

Member
Yeah i definitely lost the captive nut and had to pull the whole thing apart to reassemble...
let’s call it a good learning experience
 
My 06 2500 158"wb rear door pinches the rubber, if I don't pull the door out and away before closing. No big deal to give it a pull before closing.

I suppose there is an adjustment to correct this alignment problem, but it is easy enough to give the door a pull before closing the door to avoid pinching the rear door rubber.

This was not evident when I purchased the van years ago. ?
 
B

billintomahawk

Guest
I swear it takes a geometry degree to adjust these...?

I start by slacking the upper striker pins, then closing the driver’s side door and adjusting to get the outer edge straight.
Next adjust the striker pin so that the midline is flush at the centre. Finally adjust the right door hinges to get the upper and lower inner corners to match. Last step is readjusting the top strike pins.

It helps me if I picture the doors tilting along their diagonal lines as the hinge stops move in and out from the door frame, such that moving the upper hinge stop out pushes the lower middle corner in, and moving the lower hinge stop out moves the top middle corner in. Then moving both hinges together adjusts the outer and upper edge pressure.

-dave
Dave,
I really want to understand this process.
I think I get it but a couple of the terms are not clear to me.

Striker pins-what exactly are these?

And the hinge stops...what are those?

Thanks,

bill
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
By striker pins I mean the aluminum piece that’s bolted to the top of the door.
By hinge stops I mean the grub screws on the hinges that adjust their range of travel.
These are all described in the door adjustment manual linked here:
http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/Door Adjustment with Hinges.pdf

The hinge pins incorporate a cam and slide lock so that the outer pin rotates 180 degrees, then the door-side pin rotates.
The grub screws adjust how far they swing at each stage.

-dave
 

DonY

New member
I swear it takes a geometry degree to adjust these...?

I start by slacking the upper striker pins, then closing the driver’s side door and adjusting to get the outer edge straight.
Next adjust the striker pin so that the midline is flush at the centre. Finally adjust the right door hinges to get the upper and lower inner corners to match. Last step is readjusting the top strike pins.

It helps me if I picture the doors tilting along their diagonal lines as the hinge stops move in and out from the door frame, such that moving the upper hinge stop out pushes the lower middle corner in, and moving the lower hinge stop out moves the top middle corner in. Then moving both hinges together adjusts the outer and upper edge pressure.

-dave
Dave - can you provide a little more clarification? My rear doors look the same as the original photos posted on this thread: the top of the passenger rear door doesn't close as far as it should, resulting in a gap from just above the middle to top, with the drivers-side rear door. Seems like you've got the challenging geometry figured out. I've been fiddling with this for weeks, and have read "Door adjustment Supplement" several times, and can't seem to make sense of it.

I have gotten the gap to close a bit, but can't seem to get the pesky upper left corner of the passenger rear door completely closed. When you say "moving the upper hinge stop out", does that mean screwing the stop screw further in, toward the hinge? Or backing it out, further from the hinge?

Thanks - Don
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
.... When you say "moving the upper hinge stop out", does that mean screwing the stop screw further in, toward the hinge? Or backing it out, further from the hinge?
The hinge adjustment is described on the very last page of the Supplement.

The stop screw (Screw #4) adjusts the closed angle between the door and the hinge plate, so as you turn the screw clockwise that corner of the door moves forward and presses against the body frame gasket.

Turning the lower hinge’s stop screw counter clockwise lets the hinge plate rotate further on the inner hinge pin and this leaves the door’s corner further out, and this increases pressure at the top middle of the door.

Be careful not to angle the hinge plates too much or the brass spring pins on the edge of the door will hit the frame or gasket as the door swings closed. It’s also possible to go too far and allow the door edge to hit and crack the tail light lens.

-dave
 

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