Charging voltages look solid > 14VWhats the voltage at the battery with the engine running? Could be a charging issue as well.
That behaviour is 'as designed' by Mother Benz. It is purely mechanical in the ignition lock and is nothing to do with the RFID.I’m kind of new to the sprinter world but I noticed that if I stop the engine but let the key on accessories position then if I try to start the engine it won’t work, all the lights in the dash comes on even the glow plug, but when I turn the key to crank the engine nothing happen, like in your case!
So I have to cycle back the key to off And then it would start as normal.
It kinda freak me off first but I guess this is normal and due to the rfid key
You’re right, but I’ve always considered this mechanical interlock an act of overkill since the key is only requesting that the ECM crank the starter (the key’s signal is required to power the starter solenoid, but it’s the ECM that grounds the Start Relay coil to send that power).That behaviour is 'as designed' by Mother Benz. It is purely mechanical in the ignition lock and is nothing to do with the RFID.
It is to prevent you inadvertently turning the key to crank whilst the engine is running, say you accidentally turned it the wrong way when trying to shut the engine off, and hence prevent damage to the starter/ring gear.
I think the argument could be made that the T1N *never* had (much) "simpler" electronics.The starter lock out in the ignition assembly is probably leftover from when the T1Ns had much simpler electronics.
Hey Aqua,You might consider adding some test lights. A bit of description is in this thread. I'll start you here. Also check post #33.
So I added two test lights, as recommended. For a week or two, the symptoms never presented which led me to think installing the test lights was enough to seat an improperly seated test relay.You might consider adding some test lights. A bit of description is in this thread. I'll start you here. Also check post #33.
I'll pay close attention, but i'm about 99.9% sure the dash indicates 'P' prior to these no-starts which suggests the SLA is reporting the correct position.Have you tried keeping a scanner connected and checking for correct operation of the start command signals when cranking?
A possibility may be the gear shift problem you mentioned as if the ECU cannot confirm the GSM is in P (or N) then it will not allow a start.
I can't say whether it is related or not. It could, might be a related symptom. It may be worth correcting that in case it is related. I believe that the basic interlock is a cable operation. If the condition is repeatable enough, you might try moving the shift lever to Neutral for all of starting operations. If the problem doesn't present, then the key retention feature/adjustment *may* be related. That said, moving or adding test lights as I describe further on should avoid repairing the key related mechanical problem [unnecessarily, for the present problem anyway].Maybe related?: My "key lock" function does not work (see page 21-168 of service manual). I can remove the key without putting the vehicle in park.
The test lights should help.So I added two test lights, as recommended. For a week or two, the symptoms never presented which led me to think installing the test lights was enough to seat an improperly seated test relay.
S108 is getting power as it should to feed the Start Relay and Fuel Pump Relay when the Ignition Switch is in Position 2 or 3.BUT...it has now resurfaced: The test light connected to the start relay coil is always lit when it should be.
When the no-start-no-crank occurs, the test light attached to pin 87 of start relay does NOT light. Is this enough to indict the ignition switch such that I should go ahead and replace it, or is there something else I should look into?