How to remove the rear door panel and inner handle

Thanks for all this info. Now to take this issue a step further.....

I'm replacing all of the 3/32" or whatever it is in in mm black panels with custom made panels to match the interior siding. For the panels I trim some barn wood to 1/4" thick and laminate it to 1/8" plywood, and use the plastic panels as templates when available. I use rivet nuts in the existing tab holes and 1/4-20 black hex head screws to secure it. Looks sharp all around.

So with regards to the PS rear barn door, with that handle trim on the stock plastic panels being held in place with locking plastic tabs, and that black plastic panel being roughly 3/32" of an inch thick, I'm wondering how to reinstall that handle mechanism trim onto my panels (3/8" thick) so that everything clicks into place again. I have some ideas in my head but before I experiment I'm wondering if anyone has already tackled this?
 

Attachments

Last edited:

mattrsullivan

New member
What did you do to get it installed?

I was thinking you could cut out a portion of the existing panel and then inset into your wood panels.
 
What did you do to get it installed?

I was thinking you could cut out a portion of the existing panel and then inset into your wood panels.
Was way easier than I thought. I overthought it. I used the existing panel to know where the handle backing would insert and traced that onto the new panel and the handle backing on that so I knew how much holding wood I'd have. I carefully cut out the inside lines and then inserted the handle backing. I had to fiddle with it and cut some more to get it in correctly, being careful not to cut away too much of the holding wood. Once in (after reconnecting the cables, which is easy), I drilled small holes in the corners, countersunk those wholes and screwed it into place with black round countersunk screws.[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited by a moderator:

wtofd

Member
... I use rivet nuts in the existing tab holes and 1/4-20 black hex head screws to secure it...
Those rivnuts look great. I'm doing the same thing. Do you worry about the nuts being placed in those indentations? In other words, is there any need for a washer or spacer between the rivnut and the wood panel?
 
Those rivnuts look great. I'm doing the same thing. Do you worry about the nuts being placed in those indentations? In other words, is there any need for a washer or spacer between the rivnut and the wood panel?
The riv nut has a flange that fits that indentation perfectly. What I have to be much more concerned with regard to the riv nuts is A) making sure there's enough air in the compressor after doing a couple that it completes the crushing process, or I'm left with a half crushed, spinning riv nut, 2) going slow and easy with the trigger, 3) making sure the gun is held at a 90 on both axes so the riv nut is being applies straight in as the back crushes, again to avoid it from being half baked and spinning, and D) having plenty of replacement mandrels for the quarter/20 screws. Those mandrels are just 2"socket head screws and I buy 20 at a time from Grainger. Any problem with just one riv nut and you have to replace the mandrel.
 

Top Bottom