Emergency Headlight Power Fix + MFS info

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Head lights, low beam, head lamps, headlamps

The 2006 doesn't have DRL. We were heading to Florida on our straight thru road trip. Starting around 8:00 p.m. the headlights would go out whenever the turn signal stalk was moved. I found that if I messed with clicking the twist switch back and forth I could get the headlights back on. That was working fine until it didn't. Eventually it got to the point that twisting the switch did nothing. No high beams, no dipped lights... the high beam stalk pull flash worked. I did find that turning the left turn signal on kept the low beams working. All running lights were fine. I was driving down I 77 like a clueless old man with left blinker flashing.

The problem within the Multi Function Switch MFS must be mechanical. The contacts kept the head lights on while the left turn signal was enabled. ADDED: Turned out that there was one set of contacts which appeared quite pitted. The mechanics of the rotating drum were good.

I decided maybe I could power the lights through the fuses. It was now around 10 p.m. Auto parts stores were closed. My wife located a Walmart. I was hoping for a fuse multiplier to use as the fuse block tap/input. No luck for that, but I did get 16 gauge red wire, a switch, 10 amp fuses, slide connectors, and a cigarette outlet plug. About 20 bucks.

********
The fuses seem to be BEFORE the switch. :bash: No luck feeding power via one side of the fuse holder to the head lights. No love there.
Added:
Schematic 8w-10-27 shows that it should work to feed the dipped lights through the FB#1. Maybe it was the time of night and my testing was flawed?
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=584921#post584921
The benefit of powering through FB#1 is that the headlamp rear covers and wiring remain undisturbed. A possible drawback is that if too thick of a slide connector tap into the fuse holder is used/forced, it may spread the fuse clip contacts to cause future conduction problems when the 10 amp fuses are returned to service for normal operation.
********

After removing the rear pod cover I was able to use snap on taps to connect the 16 ga wire to the yellow hot lead of each head light. I removed the 2 ea. 10 amp head light fuses from FB#1 to avoid power feedback. I next routed the wire out the hood and in through the driver door. Some tinfoil around the cigarette plug included 5 amp fuse avoided that too small fuse being a problem. I plugged into the console power, flipped the switch and we had headlights again. :thumbup:

The console power outlet worked fine to power the 2 ea. 55 watt head lights. The Walmart cigarette plug got a little warm (designed with 5 amp fuse), but not even close to hot. We continued on to Daytona Beach without problems.

HeadlightFix01.jpg

HeadlightFix02.jpg

HeadlightFix03.jpg


Parts needed. Approx. 10 bucks?
10 - 12 feet 16 ga wire. (Red color preferred. No negative wire is needed.)
Cigarette power plug. Or a 20 amp fuse and connector to go directly to the battery.
20 amp switch. (Not really necessary. Just plug in when lights are needed.)
A couple wire nuts.
2 ea. tap connectors.

My plan is to order the MFS from Europarts SD to maybe install while at the campground. I have a good assortment of tools. I don't have a steering wheel puller. (No puller needed.) Assuming that the running lights continue to light up using the MFS, my headlight fix will get us home just fine if necessary.

Some questions for those who have installed a MFS.
Are there any pitfalls for installation? Any special tools needed? Is campground installation a good idea, or should I wait until I'm home with all of my tools?

Added:
It appears that I may be able to do the change at the campground. * Yep! It's all done.

Replacing the MFS begins here. Some of my notes are below.
The aftermarket MFS I installed in Feb. 2019 is still working as of Jan. 2020.

Replacing the MFS (multi-function switch)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23079

:cheers: vic

Added2:

The failure mode that I have may not be uncommon.

Lows beams out - my wife mentions to me, ...

Relays - all appear OK, I swapped the 4 micro I have and cleaned out the under seat area.
Multifunction switch operation - gets a bit interesting here. Low beams, can not get to function at all in regular mode. High beams, work all the time on flash mode. Work part of the time on regular high beam (when the MFS is pushed slightly up when in high beam mode). Low beams will work when in parking blinker mode for left signal, not right signal.
...
I had this, and also the headlights TURNING OFF! when I used the Right turn signal. It was the multifunction switch.
...
Mechanical Failure? Added: More likely pitted contacts.

There is a white plastic rotating "drum" which pushes the contact finger to close the various electrical contacts. My bet is that the pivot point of the drum fails and the drum drops away from the contact fingers.
Added:
During the MFS change I found a bunch of glass shards in various places in the covers and the emergency flasher. Likely a side window was broken sometime before my ownership. Maybe some shards got in and screwed up the drum?
(Nope.)

HeadlightFix04Notes.jpg

More internal pictures are here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=703977#post703977

Short of having a spare MFS unit, if your low beam headlights fail (FB#1 labeled as Dipped), my Mickey Mouse fix with taps, or through the fuse block may be is your best option. A fused tap directly off the battery can replace the cigarette plug supply.

*****************
Possible parts info.

My search results for a 2006 140 passenger Multifunction Switch MFS part numbers.
(My 2006 does not have a "P" anywhere on the left stalk.)

Added:
It does have the "P". There is an embossed white "P" very visible on the twist handle. I was looking for a molded or hidden "P". I was overthinking it. :bash: The white "P" with lighting streaks shows in the video. It marks the Left/Right side parking select twist position (the single click clockwise twist position - looking at the end).

EPN: 001 540 46 45 (With "P") - Fits my 2004 and 2006.
https://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?cID=97&PID=5050

T1NmfsP01.jpg

The following should all be equivalent parts.
0015404645 MB
OEN 000 540 74 45 — MERCEDES-BENZ
OEN 001 540 46 45 — MERCEDES-BENZ

+++++
https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-5103745AA-Multifunction-Windshield-Freightliner/dp/B00IW53MEQ (excludes 158 WB *** Maybe not! See post #5 below.)
MERCEDES-BENZ (A 000 540 74 45)
VW (2D0 953 503)

Update: Installed 1/2019. Still working fine 2/2020.
+++++

OEN 05103745AA — DODGE/Chrysler
OEN 5103745AA — DODGE/Chrysler
05103745AA (5AE) = 118 and 140 WB per Autostaretx Dick.

******************
This is not equivalent to my above 140 WB list?
EPN: 001 540 47 45 (Without "P")
https://europarts-sd.com/combinationswitch2002-2006.asp

Some notes from my installation:

Tools that I used. (From memory.)

A T30 Torx for the airbag screws. A T27 will work. The screw heads are not very deep. They are maybe 3/4" of an inch recessed at most.

A 10mm deep socket for the FB#1 fasteners.

Steering wheel. A 10 mm Allen with 1/2" ratchet handle, or 3/8" drive with a cheater. The 2006 screw was quite tight.

A typical size and also a medium/small size Phillips screwdriver. Some of the MFS screw Phillips heads are small.


Some things I recall.

Disconnect the battery!!! I lifted off the Power Center Fuse Assembly to isolate the battery power vs disconnecting the negative post.

The T30 airbag screws are recessed a bit, but not really deep. A folding multi size Torx tool worked fine.

Mark/index the steering wheel before removal (as shown in the video).

Pay attention to wire/cable positions. Some have specific routes.

The FB#1 can remain connected electrically, but the top and bottom 10mm head fasteners should be removed so it can drop away.

I needed to remove the Cruise Control Switch before the old MFS could be lifted off. The small/medium Phillips screw was accessed by rotating the MFS to off level. For re-installation I needed to push/hold the Cruise Switch in more than expected to align the fine thread screw.

If the loose cover removal or install is fighting you, changing the MFS lever positions may help.

My small Ryobi screw gun/impact worked great loosening the FB#1 top screw. I greased the new MFS brass inserts before install.



Some references.

Replacing the MFS (multi-function switch)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23079

sprinter Multi function switch ,MFS, turn signal assembly replacement

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvo6B_WX3lg

After some successful runs with the new MFS I disconnected the temporary feed wires. Rather than mess with the wire taps, I cut leads at about a foot, screwed a wire nut on and stowed the coiled wires in the pod. It gives me a connection point if needed again, but mostly avoiided messing with removing the taps.
 
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autostaretx

Erratic Member
Re: Emergency Headlight Power Fix

Are you camping in/near Orlando?

If so, the Mickey Mouse approach seems entirely appropriate.... :thumbup:

--dick
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Re: Emergency Headlight Power Fix +MFS info

Removed MFS Autopsy

First.
The MB logo Made in Spain 2006 OEM unit I removed and disassembled had some different design parts than I've seen in other pictures. I would be hard pressed to disassemble and then re-assemble the 2006 unit to working condition. To be honest, I'm unable to say for certain how it all works.

What I can say.

* Don't bother to take a malfunctioning MFS apart for repairs unless you are well equipped with skill, tools and patience. There aren't any easily serviceable parts.

* After 170,000+ miles and 12 years service most of the contact points were in excellent to very good condition. The dimmed headlamp contacts were pitted. The failure of my switch was not related to glass. There were no glass shards found inside.

* Added. I further disassembled the unit. The rotating drum pivots seemed fine. There were 2 ea. pitted contacts. They weren't particularly burned out, but had deep enough pits that could have responded to the blinker arm being in the left (down) position. That may explain the similar failure symptom being reported elsewhere. The good news is that everything related to the running lights looked great. If my Mickey Mouse fix is applied, there is little reason to worry that the running light section is in imminent danger of failure. The switch contact sections are completely separate. Apply the Mickey Mouse headlamp feed and then wait to change the MFS when convenient.

* The carelessly disembolled and autopsied MFS is now in the trash.

FWIW vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Turn Signal Emergency and Flasher Circuits

From another thread. Left... Right? signal stuck on.

Some turn signal schematics and discussion is located over in the thread.

Slowgsr clipped the Right Turn Signal Instrument Cluster 20BK/DG wire which provided a temporary fix. BUT... be aware that the temporary fix ultimately resulted in burning out circuit board trace(s) and damaging the Instrument Cluster.

Good work. :thumbup:

Interesting. Let us know when you figure out how that corrected things even temporarily. Recalling that video of all of the dash lights flashing with the emergency flashers, maybe the problem is within the IC?

Instrument Cluster
C1 - pin #7 = 20BK/DG Right Turn Signal

Added:
What is the route for power to S352 (Right TS lamps) - and S351 (Left TS lamps) for that matter - when the L/R turn signal lever is engaged?
8w-52-2 shows the route for the Emergency Flashers. There is an Arrow heading off conductor lines. [Ah-h, refer to 8w-50-5]. So far I'm unable to find those tap arrows detailed.
OR... The Emerg Flasher Feed enters the FB#1 black box.
[Both the Emerg Flasher and Turn Signal route through FB#1 this way.]

Left Side enters C1 - 13, (routes through FB#1) leaves C5 - 8 as BK/WT to S351.
Right Side enters C1 - 12, (routes through FB#1) leaves C5 - 5 as BK/DG to S352.

The TS feeds may happen within that black box. Nope. It is the arrows that show how the circuit works. Nice of them to give a reference to the other schematic.
:dripsarcasm::dripsarcasm:

[schematics]

This is how S351 and S352 get powered by the Turn Signal lever.

[schematics]

:cheers: vic
vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Some additional information about the MFS styles can be gleaned from some other threads.

Basically it appears that "P" type Parking lamp side select and the non-"P" (no parking lamp side select) can be substituted without any overall operation issues other than adding or deleting the parking side select option.

It also appears that the MFS that is listed for shorter wheel bases can be installed on the 158" WB models.

Double check to verify that my comments are correct before diving in.

Column Switches/Controls
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=816013#post816013

low gone out while intermittant is flakey
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73826

:cheers: vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Thanks for the information. :thumbup:

Fwiw this pic is of a MFS I bought on AMAZON that failed within 4 months(right side turn signals did not flash). The captive nut also failed and spun [OCPTY branded].
Interesting.

Your MFS was OCPTY. The Amazon MFS that I mentioned in this thread is branded APDTY.
Both end with "TY" :idunno:


As of July 2020 neither offering has many reviews. (As time passes there are fewer T1N's on the road.)

The listing shows 11 ea. ratings 3 1/2 stars. Some actual written review descriptions.

The listing shows 2 ea. ratings 5 stars. Absolutely no written review descriptions.

I present some things above that I noticed. I have no assessment as to the longevity of either MFS.

Patrick's previous threads regarding his harness and MFS problems.


vic
 

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