Aux Electric Coolant Pump Brushless

220629

Well-known member
I've been watching for a brushless electric coolant pump option for my 2006. Below are some that look promising.

Has anyone found and installed a similar brushless replacement, or a brush type with better longevity than the Bosch OEM pump? The carbon brushes on the Bosch seem to be the weak link. The electric coolant pumps are used on many brands of vehicles.

EBP®15 - ELECTRIC BOOSTER PUMP (12V) (9002)
3/4" x 3/4" inlet/outlet
The EBP® is a recirculating pump which is ideal for a ‘closed system’ similar to an automotive cooling system; it is not self priming’.

https://daviescraig.com.au/product/ebp15-electric-booster-pump-12v-9002

https://www.amazon.com/Davies-Craig-EBP15-Short-Electric/dp/B074N6GNSZ
https://www.amazon.com/Davies-Craig-9001-Electric-Booster/dp/B009OLPL5K

Higher flow rate model which looks like it might fit the Sprinter OEM holder.

EBP23 - ELECTRIC BOOSTER PUMP KIT (12V) (9050) - Added: 23 LPM/ 6 GPM = Probably the best choice.
https://daviescraig.com.au/product/ebp23-electric-booster-pump-kit-12v-9050
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcw-dc-9050/overview/

Davies Craig EBP40
https://www.jegs.com/i/Davies-Craig/317/DC-9040/10002/-1

:cheers: vic
 
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owner

Oz '03 316CDI LWB ex-Ambo Patient Transport
Im currently using a 25W topsflow (5.3GPM). Before that I used a 5W topsflow clone (2.6GPM). Both have been fine but the 5W let all the smoke out (and even some flames) when I accidentally squirted it with my pressure washer. Ive been using the 5W for several years.

My gut feel is that 25W is overkill. I couldnt get a 5W topsflow with the correct hose barb fittings at the time, so I and had to go with 25W. The 5W seemed to run just fine.
 
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220629

Well-known member
Im currently using a 20W topsflow. Before that I used a 5W topsflow clone. Both have been fine but the 5W let all the smoke out (and even some flames) when I accidentally squirted it with my pressure washer. Ive been using the 5W for several years.

My gut feel is that 20W is overkill. I couldnt get a 5W topsflow with the correct hose barb fittings at the time, so I and had to go with 20W. The 5W seemed to run just fine.
Thanks for the info. Do you know the flow rates for those models?

I've been trying to track down the flow rate for the Bosch pump(s), but they aren't proud enough of their OEM spec/numbered pumps performance that they list it anywhere. At least that I've found.

From what I have gleaned my guess is the OEM flow rate is about 6 gpm. I'm concerned because I don't want to overheat the Espar heater enough to warp the temperature sensors plastic cover. My belief is that can happen when the electric pump fails and the engine running Booster Heater remains operating at engine idle with the mechanical coolant pump only circulating coolant. Using the warped plastic cover as evidence of overheat, it is possible for low flow to partially overheat the Espar heater but not trip it out on high temperature safety.

This is from a VW related comment. I believe it is the same Bosch pump except for electrical connector style.

"A friend of mine is using a Mercedes Bosch pump on his AWIC.
Its an aftermarket replacement Bosch unit and its also sold as fitting Rover, Ford etc.

Has the same 2 pin connector as the Mk3 WP, has 19mm [3/4"] fittings too.

Its flows 1200-1700LPH [20 - 28 LPM], roughly 317-450GPH. [5.3 - 7.5 GPM]
Best part is that that pump is under $100 new.

Sorry no part #."
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...dary-water-pump-running-as-pump-for-AWIC-loop

The EBP 15 [15 LPH or 4 GPM] pump mentioned in my OP might be skimpy. The EBP 23 [23 LPM] is probably the better choice. The EBP 40 is likely overkill (more expensive too).

I'm assuming that the Sprinter cooling system back pressures aren't too high for the Type EBP magnetically coupled impeller design/style. Still researching.

:cheers: vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
...

I plan on buying one to set a test stand for fixing some old D5wz units (hopefully to get one or two good ones built up).

...
It will probably be fine on a open to atmospheric test stand. Don't even think about using it on a 15# radiator cap pressure coolant system.

Clues.
No hose barb on the inlet.
The design of the pump body will not withstand pressure.

PumpBrushless10Bucks.jpg

:2cents: vic
 

owner

Oz '03 316CDI LWB ex-Ambo Patient Transport
Vic I amended my post with the flow rates. 25W is rated 5.3GMP.

The topsflows are rated for 120 deg c iirc. You are right to be concerned with quality. My few years of testing shows that the topsflows and even the clone topsflows seem to be up to the task in the 15psi sprinter system, but i never go near 120 deg. 110 is the most ive gone to.
 

220629

Well-known member
Vic I amended my post with the flow rates. 25W is rated 5.3GPM.
...
Thanks.

...

The EBP 15 [15 LPH or 4 GPM] pump mentioned in my OP might be skimpy. The EBP 23 [23 LPM] is probably the better choice. The EBP 40 is likely overkill (more expensive too).

I'm assuming that the Sprinter cooling system back pressures aren't too high for the Type EBP magnetically coupled impeller. Still researching.

:cheers: vic
So the brushless EBP 23 [6 GPM] looks like the best possibility.

:cheers: vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
A brushless pump that Midwestdrifter has used with success.

I posted it in another thread, but this brushless pump can be adapted to work. You need to replace the factory electrical connector with a compatible one (this one will fit if you file down one of the plastic ridges and press hard). You will also need to modify the factory P clamp to hold the larger pump body, I just cut it, drilled holes, and used a big zip tie. This pump is an OE specified part for a numerous VW models, so it should be reliable (mine has worked for 30k miles thus far). Being brushless and sealed, it should outlast the MB OE pump.


T1NcoolantPumpBrushless.jpg

vic
 

Kajtek1

1922 Ford T. No OBD
1 main difference you might notice - Mercedes is using magnetic clutch for the pump, when other options looks like direct drive.
Don't know how critical that might be, but MB seldom does something without some kind of research.
Living in warm climates I only had to deal with this pump once, on vehicle with almost 300,000 miles.
 

220629

Well-known member
[QUOTE
The brushless pump is magnetically coupled.

Product Description
Bosch Auxiliary Electric Water Pumps are designed and manufactured to rigorous Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) quality standards. Exact OE fit, form, and function ensure a trouble-free installation process and restoration of your vehicles' cooling performance. Bosch pumps feature quality electro magnets and smart circuits, that ensure harmonized operation with the vehicle system, and a sealed pump chamber that protects the pump's electronic components. Every Bosch Auxiliary Electric Water Pump benefits from the technological and manufacturing experience gained from decades of OE supplier experience, ensuring long-lasting, superior performance. Every Bosch auxiliary water pump is 'end-of-line' function and leak tested before leaving the manufacturing facility to ensure highest quality and performance for superior customer satisfaction.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
You are talking about things you have no knowledge about.

Living in warm climates I only had to deal with this pump once, on vehicle with almost 300,000 miles.

T1Ns (in north America at least), run the aux pump whenever the engine is running. So your experience with other vehicles is not readily applicable. Reports show that these pumps will last 60-100k miles. I have replaced two of them, one at ~80k miles, and the second one at 45k miles. I expect the replacement to last twice that.
 

owner

Oz '03 316CDI LWB ex-Ambo Patient Transport
This reminds me my 25W TopsFlo brushless pump has started to make a loud noise during operation. I'm going to buy one of these Bosch ones to replace it before it totally dies. I think the topsflo may have suffered a couple of excursions above 115DegC when I had a faulty fan clutch.
 

Thanasis

Active member
Vic, The product description appears to be generic, applying to Bosch electrical pumps in general. Wonder why the word brushless is missing.
 

220629

Well-known member
Vic, The product description appears to be generic, applying to Bosch electrical pumps in general. Wonder why the word brushless is missing.
Good point.

Regardless of style, the pump design is centrifugal. Whether it is magnetically coupled or the impeller is mounted directly to the shaft (direct drive) it has little effect on the gpm or other performance of the pump.

The pump gets good reviews. Most of the negative comments relate to the particular electrical connector being difficult to source.

"the hard shell connector is part #4D09711992" was mentioned.

Personally I would just use the appropriate sized slide on connectors, include some Vaseline for corrosion resistance, and pack the connector body with duct seal or other putty. It's only 12 VDC.

There was a comment about mounting being different, but MWD's cable tie solution sounds like a good answer for that. :thumbup:
I posted it in another thread, but this brushless pump can be adapted to work. You need to replace the factory electrical connector with a compatible one (this one will fit if you file down one of the plastic ridges and press hard). You will also need to modify the factory P clamp to hold the larger pump body, I just cut it, drilled holes, and used a big zip tie. This pump is an OE specified part for a numerous VW models, so it should be reliable (mine has worked for 30k miles thus far). Being brushless and sealed, it should outlast the MB OE pump.


vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
Can anybody confirm that?
Hard to believe they would pump hot water into cabin core mid-summer.
I have confirmed it. A properly operating pump runs 100% of the time that an OM647 engine is operating. I experimented with that on a 2004. I ass-u-me that applies to the OM612 engines also. Feel free to run the experiment on your T1N.

The heater valve that is controlled by the ATC keeps hot coolant from circulating through the heater core aka matrix when not needed. That is a standard design on T1N's and most every other modern vehicle on the road.

vic
 

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