Starter won't crank

I had a similar problem which occured when it go cold, I could get it to work by gently messaging the fuse box. When I got home I replaced the fuse box #1 for $100 and have mot had a problem since. I've read that the solder joints in box break.
 

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
Sometimes the fusebox separates from the multifunction switch contacts. Try pushing down on the Emergency flasher switch white pushing up on the fusebox.
If that doesn't work, check the relays for corrosion.
Disconnect the neg battery cable for 5 min and reconnect, assuming you have a radio code to reset everything
Older Sprinters must have their battery disconnected before touching anything electrical or the ECU may get a wierd signal from electric components and prevent a start
 
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vstech

Member
Ok... my truck is doing the same.
I was able to start the truck by jumping the starter terminals directly while turning the key...

But I'd like to get this going reliably. Where in which fusebox should I look?
 

MillionMileSprinter

Formerly Type2Teach
The under steering wheel fusebox is becoming a problem more and more. There are plenty of posts here on the forum where electrical gremlens were cleared up by replacing the fuse box (including no start issues). As our vans only get older, this fuse box is bound to fail.
I will be including them in some of my spare parts kits in the future.
In the meantime, I sell just the fusebox on my website. It comes fully loaded with fuses and relays.
https://www.millionmilesprinter.com/product-page/complete-fuse-box-1
It's relatively easy to replace.
 

vstech

Member
The under steering wheel fusebox is becoming a problem more and more. There are plenty of posts here on the forum where electrical gremlens were cleared up by replacing the fuse box (including no start issues). As our vans only get older, this fuse box is bound to fail.
I will be including them in some of my spare parts kits in the future.
In the meantime, I sell just the fusebox on my website. It comes fully loaded with fuses and relays.
https://www.millionmilesprinter.com/product-page/complete-fuse-box-1
It's relatively easy to replace.
You sir, are a godsend!
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Don't forget that the Starter Relay is on the seat-side fuse panel:




Verify that power (from the ECM) is appearing at its coil when you turn the key.
Verify that the "control" pin goes to ground (0v, negative) when you turn the key. That's the actual signal from the ECM.

Verify that the feed to its contacts has 12v (it passes through Fuse Block 1, but it doesn't have a fuse there)

8w-20-06StartFuelRelaywNotes2a.jpg

If you do NOT have Remote Key Entry (the fob that can unlock your doors), the ECM will not activate the starter if it doesn't see/recognize your key's RFID chip in the ignition.

--dick
 
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surlyoldbill

Active member
I'll pile on to also say that the steering wheel fuse box has ben the #1 source of the "no start, no crank" failure.

Diagnosis to confirm involves pressing on the ECU relay while trying to start, to try to get electrical contact. Or swapping the ECU and Turn Signal relays (same type, I believe). But, it's usually NOT the relay itself, it's dry solder contacts cracking in the fuse block itself, not allowing current to go through. Some have re-soldered their fuse block with success, but at $100 for a whole new fuse block that INCLUDES all new fuses and relays, that might be the better way to go.

Then you have to deal with that horrible seized nut and breaking plastic retainer to get the fuse block off.....
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Location of ECM relay (item (2)) on Fuse Block #1 (under steering wheel):



--dick
 

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