Turbo Issues - LHM

[j-bear]

I have a 2007 V6 3.0L Sprinter with approximately 253,000 miles. I drive this daily. I had an issue a couple months ago where I went into Limp Home Mode (LHM). When I had previously done an oil change and fuel filter change I noticed that the air intake hose going from the air filter to the turbo was cracked at the turbo inlet, but I didn’t replace immediately. After going into LHM, I figured it was because of this so I replaced the air intake hose and the orange seal. I then went into LHM again while driving so I stopped driving it until I could figure out the issue. I noticed a bit of oil near the intercooler intake silencer/turbo resonator (not sure what the actual name is), so I replaced this part. I figured one of these seals/o-rings could be the issue, but I replaced the whole resonator just in case. Issue appeared to be fixed for about a week, then LHM once again. I bought a code reader than can output live data. It doesn’t show the Turbo Boost pressure, but it does output MAP, and I get about 36 psia or about 22 psi at wide open throttle (when not in LHM). So from this, I can tell that I most likely don’t have any leaks in the hoses and my turbo boost escaping isn’t causing LHM. I thought it might be that the EGR valve needs to be cleaned out so I ordered a gasket for that, and when that comes in I plan on cleaning it out and replacing the gasket.

I was still driving my van daily with no further incidents for a few days until last night I went into LHM again. I didn’t have an engine light on but when I checked for codes with my generic scanner, I pulled up P2015 – Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 and 2513 (definition was not available, just says Dodge OEM Code). Before this, when I would restart the van, it would drive normally, but this morning it immediately started in LHM and had a check engine light on. The codes were P2005 – Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 2, P2004 – Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open, P2015 0 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Performance, and 2513.

Now, I’m not too sure where to check or what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks.

 

[manwithgun]

Search this forum for “SWIRL VALVES” or “EKAS” .... Your 2 (left and right) intake manifolds have dual ports to each cylinder, with one of the ports having a butterfly valve that opens and closes to control flow and velocity. This is operated by a swirl valve/ekas actuator. The actuator can go bad, but more common is soot/carbon congestion blocking the valve. There are proximity sensors that verify open and closed positions when a command is made, so the system recognizes failed actuation and triggers a fault.

 

[Rob S]

Both sides going bad at same time suggests maybe other causes.

Maybe just a shot in the dark, but before spending major bucks on Manifold replacement or GDE tune, confirm that you have good battery voltage at startup, and good charging voltage (around 14.1v at the battery) shortly after it starts.

Bad engine ground, bad Y-cable, or any other source of low or fluctuating voltage can cause all kinds of erroneous codes. Also check the wiring to the sensors themselves for good connections and possible damage.

 

[manwithgun]

Both sides going bad at same time suggests maybe other causes.

Both sides are linked together via the actuator and move in unison. If one side sticks, both sides stick. If the actuator is dead, both sides are dead... Only one side faulting would suggest a bad prox sensor or broken linkage. Otherwise, I agree that low voltage creates phantom faults, and this vintage Sprinter is known for Y-cable issues.

 

[j-bear]

Hey so thanks for your responses. I'm thinking that it's the swirl valves blocked with soot or carbon build up that are causing me issues. Is there anyway to clean this out without having to replace or take to a shop?

Originally, I cleaned out the EGR Valve and that actually worked for about 3,000 miles but now I'm getting LHM and an engine light again. Showing codes:
P2015 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1
2201
2243
2209
C121

 

[showkey]

No real permanent solution other than intake manifolds. $$$
Plus at this mileage the EGR system ( cooler, pipes, sensors) are likely going to need work. $$$
Then the DPF might also need attention. $$$

Not an easy decision $$$$

 

[j-bear]

Definitely a bummer to hear that $$$$

Well I'm setting up an appointment tomorrow with Pacific Coast Benz in Costa Mesa, so hoping they can help me out and it's not terribly expensive. How much would the intake manifolds cost?

 

[showkey]

Ball park pricing..........

Think in prior post intakes were total $3000-$4000.
Think the manifold are about $650 discount each ( full dealer price close to $1000 each) and the job is 10-12 hours. Think while your in there the oil cooler should be resealed.

The EGR cooler clean plus stuff .......$1000-$1400. New Part is $700-$900 but can be cleaned and reused.

 

[j-bear]

Thanks showkey. I took it in today and it looks like the valves are stuck. Do the intake manifolds need to be replaced or can they just be cleaned out? The shop I took it to said they have done this before and they cleaned it out and replaced the actuator motor.

 

[showkey]

Prior posts trend toward replacement of the intakes or tuning.
It might be possible to clean, and replace the linkage and actuator. Especially if they have experience and long term success.