got a T1N/OM647? having electrical/turbo gremlins?

O

outbound

06/2500/140
got a T1N/OM647? having electrical/turbo gremlins? (esp in wet conditions)

after firing-off a couple double-barrel shotgun blasts... (of part-swappin)

one might want to save themselves what i've been thru this past year
and REPLACE THE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS (dont take my word for it, linden has said same)

or at the very least - unfasten it from the mounting pad below the fuel filter and INSPECT IT TODAY.

here's why: (as the text/comments on this shot convey, this is BS!! and i used to think we should
expect better from MB, BUT NOT ANYMORE - my phreakin chevy's were/are better built)

with 'the fix' applied to the new harness - that they didnt put some sort of anti-chafe protection
on the steel mounting pad the harness is strapped-to is NEGLIGENCE plain and simple!

IMHO - everybody with an OM647 should address this problem NOW - before it either leaves you
stranded, out in the cold, or broiling in the desert - AND BEFORE the 'code-readin part-swappers' start draining yer wallets!
:2cents:
 

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Nautamaran

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
You’re right. Sophisticated doesn’t always mean well executed... I’d even have been happy if Daimler-Chrysler had issued a service bulletin and quietly wrapped the harness during an oil change. Not their finest hour... and glad it doesn’t have to fly (though the FAA oversight might be useful?). Heading out now to check mine.

-dave
 
M

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
That would never pass EWIS inspection on an aircraft. They take vibration and chafing VERY seriously. Ford, Toyota, and Nissan seem to have harness and wiring worked out, why mercedes took so long is anyone's guess.
 
2

220629

Well-known member
Question.
It rubbed on the fuel filter metal, or the small holder which kinda comes off the negative cable bond steel.

I just went out to check the 2004 and 2006. Both have the cable harness secured to that little bracket shared with the negative lug. Both are held well away from the fuel filter metal. Maybe someone removed the OEM stabilizing method (cable tie?) from your vehicle?

I do appreciate the prompt though. While checking the 2006 I realized that I hadn't yet protected the 2006 harness like I did the 2004. I installed sheet rubber between the harness and the A/C filter drier. I installed a slit 1/2" heater hose section to protect another harness section from the battery tray and the A/C line.

:cheers: vic
 
O

outbound

06/2500/140
Oilburner said:
Among 20 car brands, 3 German produced, Porsche, Mercedes and BMW are with higher chances of catching on fire:
https://www.hotcars.com/20-cars-with-the-highest-chances-of-catching-on-fire/
Click to expand...
eye saw a number of websites that discuss all the problems that MB has had with wiring,
particularly with 90's vintage cars - wiring basically disintegrated (from heat?)

one anecdotal item?
have long noted that euro-built boats (or aus/kiwi for that matter) all seem to cheap-out on
electrical+wiring; meaning small/undersized conductors etc; goofy wiring methods etc.

again - NEVER had these issues with my chevys (or peugeot, veedub diesels, for that matter..)
:2cents:
 
M

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I have seen poor wiring practices in VWs up through 2006. No heat shrink on battery ground cables, poor wire protection etc. It is not a single line of vehicles either, as some Mercedes stuff from the 80s is great.
 
O

outbound

06/2500/140
Aqua Puttana said:
Question.
It rubbed on the fuel filter metal, or the small holder which kinda comes off the negative cable bond steel.

I just went out to check the 2004 and 2006. Both have the cable harness secured to that little bracket shared with the negative lug. Both are held well away from the fuel filter metal. Maybe someone removed the OEM stabilizing method (cable tie?) from your vehicle?

I do appreciate the prompt though. While checking the 2006 I realized that I hadn't yet protected the 2006 harness like I did the 2004. I installed sheet rubber between the harness and the A/C filter drier. I installed a slit 1/2" heater hose section to protect another harness section from the battery tray and the A/C line.

:cheers: vic
Click to expand...

no - the harness chafed on the underside where it was strapped to the above mentioned
pad/holder/bracket

as i noted, this would've been prevented had they put some sort of rubber boot on the pad,
to separate the harness (as well as the main POS from the batt to the starter) from the steel of the pad.

as Mwd mentioned above - that crap would never make it in the aircraft biz,
never mind the boat (ocean yacht) biz - since if one is out of sight from land (say even 10miles)
where i used to cut wires and turn screws (on ocean yachts)..
and one loses their electrical system (nav/comms, bilgepumps etc) ???

one might never been seen/heard from again...

just sayin.
 
2

220629

Well-known member
outbound said:
no - the harness chafed on the underside where it was strapped to the above mentioned
pad/holder/bracket

...
Click to expand...
Ok.

So I need to remove the OEM securement on the 2004 and 2006, wrap some sheet rubber around the harness(es), and secure it again using new cable ties. I often use EPDM roof membrane.

Thanks. :thumbup: I'll do that the next rain free day that we get.

:cheers: vic
 
O

outbound

06/2500/140
Aqua Puttana said:
Ok.

So I need to remove the OEM securement on the 2004 and 2006, wrap some sheet rubber around the harness(es), and secure it again using new cable ties. I often use EPDM roof membrane.

Thanks. :thumbup: I'll do that the next rain free day that we get.

:cheers: vic
Click to expand...

and dont fergit to lift up the harness off that pad and look beneath it.
(oh... an dont be surprised if it looks kinda like mine ;)

'cuz my old harness looked great from above...


and this one was a 1 owner 1 driver who only traded'r in cuz he 'made a lot that year, so bought a new one'
and fairly evident that he took pretty good care of it.


:2cents:

:cheers:
 
dbkessler

dbkessler

Member
Would raising this harness off the contact point possibly help eliminate this as the source of the problem? If it’s grounding out via contact, would removing the physical contact cause the poor performance to go away, assuming that the wires were still intact? I have the same problem with the P0234 code and lack of power.
 
jrod5150

jrod5150

Well-known member
A9015403107 Have you dug into 0234 much? Id recommend doing some extensive testing before condemning a harness. A post updated over the weekend was from someone that replaced the harness at first Only to discover it was the ecm at fault
 
dbkessler

dbkessler

Member
I have not done any further testing other than changing my driving style. I don’t yet have a good scanner to use. I’ve done quite a bit of reading and it does seem that there are a hundred different “solutions” to the problem. If I keep my foot easier on the throttle (I’m a lead-foot driver), it does not throw this code or start limping. It does still have an odd feel to it though. Between this issue and the ABS, ERS lights I have a real desire to drive it to a specialist like Dr. A for repair. It’s my service vehicle and it’s so difficult to work when these issues keep me stressed and sometimes completely out of the van when it’s in the shop. Sheesh.

On a side note, when I write more info in following posts in this thread, who sees this? Does this thread get bumped up so others who may not have originally commented will see it? I’m fairly new here and not quite sure how it all works. I would obviously be interested in more people seeing the post and commenting if they have additional info to add. Thanks!
 
dbkessler

dbkessler

Member
Got a new code today. I was doing work for the shop that repairs my van so we scanned it with their autel. It was a turbo underboost code. TSB suggested checking the inter cooler for leaks. So that’s my next step. I hope it leaks like a sieve so I can replace it and move on. What a pain in the arse!
 
M

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
The turbo actuators can occasionally fail in a very intermittent way. These can be swapped without replacing the turbo, and used ones won't break the bank. Factory level bi-directional scanners can command the actuator to any position for testing, which can sometimes be helpful.

There are other more likely situations to investigate first though.
 
dbkessler

dbkessler

Member
Ok cool. Thank you. Still going to test the intercooler for leaks. It’s easy enough to do and it needs to be eliminated as the source of the problem anyway.
 
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