Van runs, cuts out. Merc want another £2000


'05 Snow Camper, '17 170 4x4, Adventure Vissionary
after the priming, and then a successful start forllowed by a shutdown, are there new bubbles in the line?

If no, it’s more than a vacuum leak. If yes, the original vacuum leak is probably still your problem.


New member
after the priming, and then a successful start forllowed by a shutdown, are there new bubbles in the line?

If no, it’s more than a vacuum leak. If yes, the original vacuum leak is probably still your problem.
No bubbles now, so one thing is sorted. But now it runs for 30 seconds then shuts down.
Edc light comes on. I think it might be the hp pump. No obvious leaks, and I'm sure the O-ring was replaced on the rail last year.

I may have to ask Merc to do a diognostic on the van. Not sure if this will be able to tell me exactly whats wrong.
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
No bubbles now, so one thing is sorted. But now it runs for 30 seconds then shuts down.
Maybe some help here.

I recall that there is a transition point in control after starting which Doktor A mentioned one time. I don't recall the details. Some searching wasn't very fruitful.

Found it, but it may not apply to OM612 engines.
Got the diag from Dr. A. For the first 30 seconds or so there is a solenoid on the end of the rail that controls all rail pressure and bleed back to the return line. On 04+ models there is another control piece on the high pressure pump that takes over fuel delivery quantities after 30 seconds. So one of the two pieces is acting up and we are gonna use a DAD to find out which one. Ill let everyone know the results. Thanks!
I did find this information and thread too.


Pulled 27 gal. of fuel out of this thing put in 5 gal. of fresh # 1 deisel with injector cleaner and we are running perfect for going on 40 min. now :cheers:
As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread.



New member
Thanks once again.

It runs for 10-30 seconds then cuts out, and the ECM light appears.
I might have to get Merc to take a look with a scanner tool. Then try and source the parts and do the work myself.

From what I've read it could be any of these.

1. Cam shaft sensor (previously mentioned by Linden)
2. Crank shaft sensor
3. HP pump
4. Either the rail control valve/pressure sensor.

My sprinter is 05, yet I dont have the fuel control on the Hp Pump- which is weird?

If any of you now how I could remove any of these possible causes, via method, do let me know


2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
North American 2005 models all have the OM-647, which has the quantity control valve on the HP pump. It limits fuel heating by reducing the flow volume through the fuel rail and the pressure relief solenoid valve.

Since your engine runs I would focus on the rail components - sensor and solenoid - that sense and control HP pressure.
The ECM will shut off the engine if it cannot get control of the rail pressure. Any air bubbles in the rail make modulating the pressure more difficult, and the ECM may blame the relief solenoid. Note that it can take a minute or two to flush all the air from the rail once vacuum leaks are solved in the supply lines, so one or two shut-downs may be residual symptoms as the air makes its way out of the rail and out the return line.

But you really should get it scanned... you say the dash lamp came on, so the ECM likely knows exactly why it shut it down. You just need to ask it nicely.



Engineer In Residence
I believe there are several scanners which will do an okay job pulling codes. Even a basic OBDII scanner should be able to pull basic codes? Any sprinter/mercedes experienced independent mechanic can probably do a basic diagnosis and scan.


New member
Hey guys,
So yesterday I got Merc to put a scanner on it.

p1187-002-Rail pressure to low.
p1187-008-The pressure control valve jams in the closed position.
p1190-008-Rail pressure control valve-cable has-//-
P0190-002-Rail pressure sensor- the signal voltage is to high.

There are other faults but the mechanic didn't believe them to be relevant to my problem.

So the mechanic told me to replace the rail pressure control valve. This I did this morning. It ran fine then after 10 minutes I waved good by to Merc and shook the mechanics hand, who did the scan for me, then (you guessed it) the EDC light came back on, and it cut out. Now it starts runs for a few seconds then cuts out- sometimes it doesn't start at all. No leaks, no air.

What do you think? A wiring issue or the solenoid on the rail?

Why would it run for 10 minutes then cut out again?

Some other codes:

B1040-000 The can communication of the engine control module is faulty.
B1041-000 Can communication with the brake system module is faulty.

Could it be these? Something to do with the computer?
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For a few dollars more
Quickly read through the thread and not any mention of battery health. Did i miss it. 2005—13-year old vehicle, how old is the battery?

:professor:A systematic diagnosis would logically begin at the battery. This not MY OPINION but standard shop/industry practice. You could very well be chasing "fictitious" codes generated by faulty grounds, particularly the ground for the ECU, and connections related to the battery. Refer to Service manual Battery section for details.



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Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
Why would it run for 10 minutes then cut out again?
1. While fiddling about in the engine bay a bad wire /ground was jostled into making a good connection, 10 min of idling and putting it into gear it was jostled out of connection?
2. The battery/charging system is very poor, garage charged the battery while in shop but it’s dead again/ alternator is toast battery is using its chemical charge but it’s running on fumes?


New member
Thanks once again.

It looks like you were all on the right lines.
So here is what happened. I broke down and manged to roll the van into an Car park. Merc said they would do another diagnostic for free if I got the van there. I started fiddling with wires checking all the connections. And found the clip on injector three was loose (the little bit that juts up on the top of the injector and keeps the clip on had been snapped off).

So when Merc did the refitting of the injectors last week they must of snapped it. As I fitted the new rail sensor this morning and cleaned around the injectors, and I may of even given each one a squeeze, it sorted the connection out for a short while.

It looks like three things happened at once with the original break down.

1. Air in the fuel lines.
2. A loose injector connection.
3. Possible rail sensor malfunction.

To be honest, I'm not even sure the rail sensor was necessary now. I got the van back to the garage and it spat out the same damn codes.

When I'd asked them originally whether it was possible there was a wiring issue, they were dismissive about it. Even so it's a little embarrassing I didn't spot the injector earlier.

They had supposedly checked all the wiring last week. This is why they were convinced it was something major and wanted to charge me a lot of money.

Thanks guys, you've been a great help. Fingers crossed it's sorted now.
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