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Adolphus

Member
When I removed the driver’s side wheel well rubber footstep cover there was surface rust and flaking paint, especially where contact with the underside structural supports of the pad. At that time I cleaned it up and painted over with rustolium before reassembled. In the back of my mind I worried about the passenger side. After having to loosen the passenger seat to extract the rubber step in the foot well....sure enough... more surface rust. All corrected now. I’m guessing the weep hole on each side is the culprit for letting more water in. Going to have to forge shallower water ;).
 

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Kiltym

'05 Westy
We took ours out about a year ago and also found some minor scuffing and rust at the support points against the paint. We cleaned it up, and painted over all the support points with POR-15. It is much harder then paint, and should avoid any future issues from happening.

The drain hole is pretty small, and gets clogged pretty easily. After 10+ years, I suspect everyone should remove the plastic steps, clean it out, and clean up any signs of rust.
 

Adolphus

Member
I forgot to mention the tool with which I made all cabinet and laminated wall cuts (such as the cassette toilet bathroom wall and sink cabinet lower access hole for the shower wand hose). It was a rotozip used freehand... typically set at 25k rpm and cuts smoothly without chipping or melting the plywood’s laminated plastic surfaces.
 
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Adolphus

Member
New privacy/blackout curtain installed behind the front seats with snaps. Because I used the shorter dimension of the 60"x70" fuzzy bed throw from top to bottom, I noticed light barely peeking out at the floor. The remedy was to replace three existing small metal plate floor screws with snap screws to batten down the curtain at the floor. Works great but will still be adding velcro strips for the sides for extra measure. The throw was only $12.99 at Tues Morning, likely because of the color.
 

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Adolphus

Member
Added sliding door step insert since I was concerned about someone stumbling into the hole in the middle of the night. Used 1 inch rigid closed cell sheet material sandwiched between thin plywood exteriors to build my own SIP. It doubles as an added step as needed. At some point I may replace it with a custom tool box to perform the same functions, but it's nice to have the feather weight of this one.
 

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Adolphus

Member
I hadn't realized two of my nylon rollers for the upper bed extension had been missing somehow until now. I found nylon sleeves that I combined (smaller 1 inch length glued into the larger 1/2 inch length pieces ) and drilled to the final needed diameters (8.5 mm countersink and 6.4 mm through drill). Finally rolling smoothly.
 

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