Maybe helpful to Sprinter camper converters to be

What brand model etc is that ladder. Do you have a link ?
Some good ideas there
Very nice work, I would be a little concerned about available payload on a 1500 PM, have you weighed your van loaded up for a trip?


New member
Thanks Jim.
Curious what leads you to believe we have a heavy build?

What appears to be beyond the 4000 pounds internal payload rating of the PM 1500 ?

Ironically as we built our camper we prided ourselves on no large wood features i.e. no cabinets no sweeping countertops, etc., and yet we've not weighed the camper.

At each stage weight (we, the she-boss and I have decades of backpacking experience) was of top priority, even evidenced by our latest move to lithium batteries.
I was not aware that the 1500 had almost the same payload as the 3500, it was more what you were carrying than your build, carry on!
P.S.I helped some friends convert a 159" 3500 Promaster two years ago. We have spent the last two winters camping with them in the Baja and summer trips to Vancouver Island. I am impressed with the handling, interior dimensions and power of the gas PM.


Nice build, and impressive work tucking away the propane tank and Propex heater under the chassis. Does that box around the remote propane fill cause any ground clearance issues? Other than the fill box it looks like you have plenty of underside clearance.

We also have a neighbor with a Promaster 136 DIY conversion. Very impressive vehicle for its compact size.
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Petem we have plenty of clearance for a Promaster, but that's saying only so much!
We recently did the front end lift mod and gained an 1.5 inch up front besides also more leveling
of the whole rig. Wish I'd done that before installing the propane tank-would have made crawling
under a hundred times easier.
We've done many a forestry service road but it's mostly washboards and potholes versus departure angle so
the remote fill box hasn't become an issue (yet). For ground clearance first to 'plow' are the running boards, then the muffler,
then the propane regulator shroud and so far only the running boards have scraped dirt.
If doing it again I'd not use the box for the remote fill, just brackets instead.

Glad you noticed the tucked up and in location of the does put the tank within 10 inches of the catalytic converter so maybe you also
noticed the heat shield and heat tape. So far in a 7 mile climb up gravel/pothole filled forestry road e.g. 5mph max, we hit 110F (bluetooth remote
temperature probe affixed to the tank). Blue Rhino says no more than 124F for their BBQ grill tanks but they don't have a pressure relief valve.

One wide reason (notice I didn't say big reason) for Promaster choice was being able to sleep side to side. I'm 6' tall and just squeek by :)
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New member
Harry so far so good.
We choose Blue Sky 3000i. It's MPPT so that helps a bit, I
don't think our 160watt panel emulates a 200 but at the time
it was the biggest we could get and also have the air-con and vent
fan. I toyed with adding two more smaller panels but we decided to
add a half roof rack for two big duffels, for when we don't take the Stow-a-way
The 3000i was programmable for our Battle Borns, that was a good thing we didn't
anticipate during the initial build/choosing of parts and components. We also
got lucky in choosing the Samlex EVO 2212 for charger-inverter; it was also lithium
The only thing I changed out was the Projecta ICD-25 (not programmable) to a
Sterling Power BB1230, programmable and with direction on the Battle Born site.

Way more than asked. Sorry :)

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