Wiring Heater Booster to run from Switch

ZED

Sprinter Newbie
Looks like a good diagram. Any chance of posting a higher res one? I can't actually read the text.
 

Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
Looks like a good diagram. Any chance of posting a higher res one? I can't actually read the text.
Hello,

I tried to get a higher resolution picture but the system didn't allow me to upload a bigger file, I guess I need help to do that.

In the meantime if you send me your email by private message, I will try to send you a better file.
 

Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
Hello all,

I finally did the modification today and in doing so I found the answer to all my questions.

First:
In step #6, of the original post, you really have to add a terminal inside the female connector. The male connector has 2 wires(very hard to see) and the female connector has the 1 wire (black blue white dot) please note that you don't tap into that wire but you add a terminal and a wire into the connector, this will give you access to the second wire to activate the fan.


Second:
You must use a SPDT (single pole double throw,last relay to the right in my diagram) relay to control the Espar unit, when the relay is off the Espar works normally, when the new switch is 'ON' the ESPAR start running, see my diagram for details


I have everything running fine, the Espar unit fires up, the water pump goes on and the fan works.

I am very happy with the mod, this will replace the block heater that I needed to install in order to easily start my Sprinter this winter. I will be heading south in February and I don't want any starting problem before leaving.
 
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Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
Hello all,

I finally did the modification today and in doing so I found the answer to all my questions.

First:
In step #6, of the original post, you really have to add a terminal inside the female connector. The male connector has 2 wires(very hard to see) and the female connector has the 1 wire (black blue white dot) please note that you don't tap into that wire but you add a terminal and a wire into the connector, this will give you access to the second wire to activate the fan.


Second:
You must use a SPDT (single pole double throw,last relay to the right in my diagram) relay to control the Espar unit, when the relay is off the Espar works normally, when the new switch is 'ON' the ESPAR start running, see my diagram for details


I have everything running fine, the Espar unit fires up, the water pump goes on and the fan works.

I am very happy with the mod, this will replace the block heater that I needed to install in order to easily start my Sprinter this winter. I will be heading south in February and I don't want any starting problem before leaving.
Winter is here, we have snow on the ground.

I officially tried the 'Wiring Heater Booster to run from Switch' modification today..... did I say I was happy with the mod?????

Yes... I am very happy and I think that everyone living north should have it done.
 

josephpampliega

New member
Hello all,

I finally did the modification today and in doing so I found the answer to all my questions.

First:
In step #6, of the original post, you really have to add a terminal inside the female connector. The male connector has 2 wires(very hard to see) and the female connector has the 1 wire (black blue white dot) please note that you don't tap into that wire but you add a terminal and a wire into the connector, this will give you access to the second wire to activate the fan.


Second:
You must use a SPDT (single pole double throw,last relay to the right in my diagram) relay to control the Espar unit, when the relay is off the Espar works normally, when the new switch is 'ON' the ESPAR start running, see my diagram for details


I have everything running fine, the Espar unit fires up, the water pump goes on and the fan works.

I am very happy with the mod, this will replace the block heater that I needed to install in order to easily start my Sprinter this winter. I will be heading south in February and I don't want any starting problem before leaving.
Thanks for diagram, as I been wanting to do this. BTW, do you know how long heater can run before main battery would not have sufficient energy to crank engine?

I was thinking about hooking 12V source to an auxiliary battery if not long enough.
 

Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
Thanks for diagram, as I been wanting to do this. BTW, do you know how long heater can run before main battery would not have sufficient energy to crank engine?

I was thinking about hooking 12V source to an auxiliary battery if not long enough.
I am sorry I don't know how long but if you have a good battery, it should be able to support it if you run the Espar unit for 10-15 minutes only before cranking up the engine. A battery charger, hooked up to the main battery, may help run the unit for a long time.

An auxilliary power source is a great idea if you need or want to run the Espar for an extended period of time.

Good luck, the mod is not that difficult to do.
 

cedarsanctum

re: Member
Thanks for diagram, as I been wanting to do this. BTW, do you know how long heater can run before main battery would not have sufficient energy to crank engine?

I was thinking about hooking 12V source to an auxiliary battery if not long enough.
For an example, the aux. heater in my NCV3 will run 20 minutes before it automatically shuts down. That is the factory recommended time for warm up, before the battery gets too low. The heater itself doesn't use that much current after initial startup, but the electric water pump and the fan do.
I believe that is a rather conservative time, but when your battery gets old it won't last as long, so it's better to be safe.

Jef
 

ZED

Sprinter Newbie
Thanks Lepapehermann.
I'm wishing I had gotten to doing this already. It's getting colder here by the day now. I don't really need to be running the sprinter right now, but it's always a bummer having a vehicle sit in the driveway not being able to start. As soon as I get some time and the weather gets such that I feel like shuffling enough vehicles to get the sprinter into the shop I'll be working on that mod. I'm sooooo looking forward to an engine preheat.
 

Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
Thanks Lepapehermann.
I'm wishing I had gotten to doing this already. It's getting colder here by the day now. I don't really need to be running the sprinter right now, but it's always a bummer having a vehicle sit in the driveway not being able to start. As soon as I get some time and the weather gets such that I feel like shuffling enough vehicles to get the sprinter into the shop I'll be working on that mod. I'm sooooo looking forward to an engine preheat.
Hi Zed,

The good thing about that mod is that you can assemble the relays and pre-wire them long before making the mod, when you are ready you open the hood, wire the Espar through the wall (2 wires) then just open the console add the switch, pop in the relay bank and wire everything together.

Let me know if you need any help.... over the web, Calgary is a longggggggggggg way from where I live.

First:
In step #6, of the original post, you really have to add a terminal inside the female connector. The male connector has 2 wires(very hard to see) and the female connector has the 1 wire (black blue white dot) please note that you don't tap into that wire but you add a terminal and a wire into the connector, this will give you access to the second wire to activate the fan.

Second:
You must use a SPDT (single pole double throw,last relay to the right in my diagram) relay to control the Espar unit, when the relay is off the Espar works normally, when the new switch is 'ON' the ESPAR start running, see my diagram for details
PS: I bought the 3 SPST relays over the web from Princess Auto. I am sure you know them, they are based in Calgary (http://www.princessauto.com/)

Diaporama http://cid-3ccd8a114cda3f9f.skydrive.live.com/play.aspx/Public/Sprinter?ref=1











 
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ZED

Sprinter Newbie
OK, here's a bit of dumb question. I've done some searching but didn't find the answer.
How do you get the switch insert panel out of the dash?
 

Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
OK, here's a bit of dumb question. I've done some searching but didn't find the answer.
How do you get the switch insert panel out of the dash?

This is a good question, I had to do some digging to get the answer so I am please to share.


Here is an extract from the service manual page 23-54

(1) Move selector lever to position ''D''.

(2) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,remove shift lever frame trim. (Fig. 2) (I bought a tool to remove car trims $8.00)

(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,remove storage compartment. (you can use rubber gloves instead of a trim stick and lift it, much easier and less chance to leave marks on the bezel.)


(4) Remove screw and using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove bezel. (After removing the screw underneath the storage compartment you can easily lift the bezel by hand through the opening of the storage compartment, you may have to pry it a bit but if you do it from the front it will lift. DO NOT APPLY FORCE AT THE BACK, you may break the tabs.

They also mention to remove the ashtray.... not sure why, you don't have to remove it.

Let me know how it goes.



http://pmiprg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1prX0K2h8ir2xBsLecWdhTVZiQ2qigotUyOk6fIkEjOc4s123cPvE5BTOVdnosMh9I1SG_cZCzPzyNFOAmggqLW2AFCUwfD2L5/Sprinter_Bezel.jpg




 
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Rickjw

New member
Thank you for this thread, it helped me a lot. Ive just replace my Hydronic with a new one £240 from ebay new and unused! Also added a 7 daytime.
I used a similar set up to make it run with out the ignition on, but did not do the fan input at the small plug but relayed the ignition input to the dash fan selector switch. That way I can have normal control over the fan. Ideal if like mine, yours is a camper, it heats hot water for shower ect, so dont always want blown hot air.
Rick.
 

sprinterpard

New member
I did this modification with some help from my father, an electrical engineer . To get any joy I have to turn the key to the ACC position, turn on the switch. Here's the thing - The unit fires up, heats the water 2 degrees according to the scanguage, and then dies, sometimes making awful thunking noises from under the hood. With engine on, however, everything works - sitting at idle at the lights I see the temp going up and up. The only major departure from the modified plans described on the forum was that I did not hook anything up to the fan, didn't put in the MB terminal either. Where I live it can be 40 below - I want something that means I am sure to start the engine, not something that drains the battery.

The major possibility I am thinking of is that somehow I am not turning on the waterpump when I am using the mod with the engine off. I don't really know what it would sound like - it's obviously running when I have the engine on, but the sound is drowned out. Can anyone give me a tip on a layman's way to know if the water pump is on?

Cheers,
Sprinterpard
 

samhop

Member
thanks to everyone that has contributed to this great thread.

I have all the relays 3spst 1spdt and connectors to do the mod. I will be setting it up to run of my house set 400ah. and will be using it as engine pre-heater and am not relay interested in having the heater fan running all the time as i have installed the Espar air heater.

My question is do i need to leave the fan relay out in order to not have the fan on all the time when the boost heater mod is on, or is the fan relay only powering the existing fan control switch. it looks to me like i would loss control over the fan

Hello all,

I finally did the modification today and in doing so I found the answer to all my questions.

First:
In step #6, of the original post, you really have to add a terminal inside the female connector. The male connector has 2 wires(very hard to see) and the female connector has the 1 wire (black blue white dot) please note that you don't tap into that wire but you add a terminal and a wire into the connector, this will give you access to the second wire to activate the fan.


Second:
You must use a SPDT (single pole double throw,last relay to the right in my diagram) relay to control the Espar unit, when the relay is off the Espar works normally, when the new switch is 'ON' the ESPAR start running, see my diagram for details


I have everything running fine, the Espar unit fires up, the water pump goes on and the fan works.

I am very happy with the mod, this will replace the block heater that I needed to install in order to easily start my Sprinter this winter. I will be heading south in February and I don't want any starting problem before leaving.
 

Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
thanks to everyone that has contributed to this great thread.

I have all the relays 3spst 1spdt and connectors to do the mod. I will be setting it up to run of my house set 400ah. and will be using it as engine pre-heater and am not relay interested in having the heater fan running all the time as i have installed the Espar air heater.

My question is do i need to leave the fan relay out in order to not have the fan on all the time when the boost heater mod is on, or is the fan relay only powering the existing fan control switch. it looks to me like i would loss control over the fan
Yes, you can leave it out and you will not lose control over the fan in normal operation.
 

Gulf SV

Kevin Burns
Being relatively new here, and looking through all the old stuff, it was nice to come across this a few nights ago. This is a mod that will be happening before the blusteries hit hard in December.

A few questions for you, Lepapehermann, or anyone else. I really like the factory switch and plan to use it. Do you see any issues with your wiring diagram to follow the original write up for connecting it? I'm thinking yours shows a better description of the relays. Also, I think if memory serves, there are enough empty slots under the seat to install all the relays there. I know it's more work, but it just seems so much more sanitary. Finally, I'd like to run the mod off aux battery power since I could see using it overnight occasionally. Years ago I had a South Wind gas heater hooked up on my tractor trailer rig. It ran many nights including the big blizzard in '78. It was always nice not to have to run the motor.
 

samhop

Member
I'm not sure I understand this correctly?

1 If i install the fan relay I can not control the fan with the pre-heat mod powered on.

2 If I install the fan relay I can control he fan with the existing dash fan control knob.

I understand that if i leave the fan relay out the mod will work but W/out fan.

thanks for your help
 

Lepapehermann

Cantley,Québec,Canada
Being relatively new here, and looking through all the old stuff, it was nice to come across this a few nights ago. This is a mod that will be happening before the blusteries hit hard in December.

A few questions for you, Lepapehermann, or anyone else. I really like the factory switch and plan to use it. Do you see any issues with your wiring diagram to follow the original write up for connecting it?

No, you can certainly use the factory switch I used a different switch simply based on availability.

I'm thinking yours shows a better description of the relays. Also, I think if memory serves, there are enough empty slots under the seat to install all the relays there. I know it's more work, but it just seems so much more sanitary.

I don't know

Finally, I'd like to run the mod off aux battery power since I could see using it overnight occasionally.

Very good idea


Years ago I had a South Wind gas heater hooked up on my tractor trailer rig. It ran many nights including the big blizzard in '78. It was always nice not to have to run the motor.


I am sure you will enjoy this project and the result.
 

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