Wiring Heater Booster to run from Switch

rogerbeeghly

New member
Here is how to wire your Heater Booster to run from a switch. It also runs the fan so you can heat the engine and the inside at the same time with no 2 hour timeout. Works great for camping.
 

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pgr

New member
Thank you!!!

This is fantastic (no pun intended)!

Did you get the switch from Dodge? How much did it cost?

pgr
 

kkanuck

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Re: Direction number 9,

I think there is a typo, please verify.....

From same relay, 87A go to Black/Blue/Green wire.......yet when I look at the wire diagram part, it shows the same wire as Black/Blue/White.

My guess is direction # 9 should read the later, Black/Blue/White.....not Black/Blue/Green.....which is the same as direction # 8 connecting to term 87 of the same relay?


Cheers,

Tibor
 

kkanuck

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Roger,

(I also posted this also in the other thread.....DIY timer install...)


Thank you very much for the diagram, it makes it much easier to understand. Very professional diagram I may add! Your knowledge on this is great! I am so glad to have met you and have the luxury of someone already figuring it out.

I was afraid if i do it wrong, it will be a real nightmare to undo whatever I did???

Seeing as i am using the 7 day coolant timer, which has a manual on / off switch, providing the same function as the switch you installed 5103-853AA(I mentioned to this to you earlier) my wiring is almost the same, but not quite.

The timer has a diagnostic function (shows trouble codes if espar malfunctions), which requires one more wire to the blue wire on the espar heater side of the wiring harness under the battery.

Here is a link to the diagram of this timer wiring diagram,

http://www.espar.com/pdfs/7daytime.pdf

I have the timer, and the 12 connection plug that plugs into the back of it (that I wire and crimp pins to whatever I need), that you will see it in the link above, at the bottom of the page on the left. I do not have the relay shown, but will get the 4 relays as per your directions.

Can you tell me how my timer wire job will differ from your switch wire job? I do not need anymore diagrams, but just what substitutes for what in my case.

Coolant Heater timer connections:

there are 12 terminals, not all used. You will see them clearly from this link.

here is what I can put together:

term 1: to splice of other switches grey/green/red for timer light display
term 2: wire output to relays (all 4) #85 term of relays
term 3: empty
term 4: splice to - battery at 12v outlet, plus to #86 all 4 relays
term 5: empty
term 6: empty
term 7: empty
term 8: splice to blue diagnostic wire at heater side of harness under battery (not on your diagram as this gives timer diagnostic trouble codes for service)
term 9: empty
term 10: to vehicle ignition accessories for continuous operation of heater??
Do I need this connection? As per your diagram, your wiring is already addressing this correct? This one I am not sure of????
term 11: splice into + battery at the 12V outlet under switches
term 12: splice into - battery at the 12V outlet under the switches.


The rest of your diagram, I follow exactly.

have I missed, or overlooked, or goofed up on anything?

You also mentioned that I do not need the switch, 5103-853AA, nor the connector 5120-633A, and that I only need 1 terminal, part # 5103 882A.

i will aslo need the 4 automotive 5 post relays, 5 splice connectors blue, plus a bunch of male and female blue connectors, and 16 guage wire.

I am very excited as i know I am getting closer. many other members are also very greatful

Many Thanks

Tibor
 

rogerbeeghly

New member
Directions are right Diagram wrong will try to change thank you
 

kkanuck

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So, if directions are correct, not the diagram, does that mean:

that posts 87 and 87A from the same relay, both splice into the same wire, except one on the heater side of the connector at the heater, and one on the harness side of the connector at the heater, but same color wire both sides of this plug?

And, I am using those same splice terminals as inside,

where I attach a male end on these 2 wires that splice, and attach 2 of these splice termonals onto the 2 wires in question, one on each side of this plug, down at the heater?
 

kkanuck

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Forget my last question here.

i now see it clearly on the photo, you cut this wire, Balck/Blue/Green, on the heater side of the plug, put a terminal on each end of this cut, and one wire from term 87 goes to one side of the wire, and term 87A of same relay goes to otherside of wire.

I got it.
 

kkanuck

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However, the blue diagnostic wire I have to tap into for this timer,

there I will be using a tap connection, and only splice into, but not cut?

I think this is correct for this
 

rogerbeeghly

New member
Yes, that is the factory switch. As far as where I cut the wire is on the Black/Blue/Green side not Blue wire going to Booster. And correct just splice diagnostics do not cut.
 
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buxmont

New member
Of those that have done this upgrade has anyone run into your esp, abs, and wheel spin light all staying on, van starts just can't get out of Park. I have an 06 and followed all direction and the only thing I can come up with is a back-feed through the 87a on the booster heater relay when the "new switch" is turned off, this is when I get all the idiot lights, when I turn the "new switch" on before starting, everything is fine and when I turn the "new switch" off after the van has started everything seems to be OK. The procedure works great when the van is off and no key in ignition, booster starts up pump and fan run and van gets warm. IT also seems like the stock booster heater button is not working. Is it possible the 06 wiring is a little different. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Lee

After looking at this again what I realized is one small mistake with the directions. I first want to state how appreciative we all are for the work that rogerbeeghly put into this project and he states in the post that it was from memory, there is a lot going on here in this mod and only missing one thing while sharing it with us is perfectly understandable. I know I was working on it a long time to no avail but thanks to this forum and rogerbeeghly I have the most inexpensive and professional looking heater mod out there. The very minor mistake is, on the Black/Blue/Green dot wire relay, you have to make the connector on the heater side of that wire a common connection so this should be on the #30. The #87 (which is normally open) on the relay should go to the + side of the cigarette lighter. Lastly, this was always correct on the directions, #87a (which is normally closed) goes from from the wire harness side of the Black/Blue/Green dot wire. So you only have to switch 2 wires. Hope I did not make this to confusing.

Lee
 
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kkanuck

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I have yet to complete this project Lee, but have almost all parts I need. I just need a few terminals from the dealer now and will complete.

I am confused as to what you found out in the end, was the diagram not correct to work, or did you misinterpret something on it that you corrected in the end?

Did you use a timer, or a switch to control?

Cheers,

Tibor
 

buxmont

New member
I have yet to complete this project Lee, but have almost all parts I need. I just need a few terminals from the dealer now and will complete.

I am confused as to what you found out in the end, was the diagram not correct to work, or did you misinterpret something on it that you corrected in the end?

Did you use a timer, or a switch to control?

Cheers,

Tibor

As of 4/05/06 the directions and schematic are still not correct, the simplest way of explaining this is looking at the schematic where the relay bank is drawn, looking left to right the relay far right you need to reverse the two wires connected to #30 and #87. Once they are reversed everything works properly.

I personally used the factory switch not the timer.

The funny thing is I thought I would not be using this mod till next year being it is almost Easter here in the North East and it is supposed to be warm, but the weather man says there is a chance for a white Easter and the last two days have been very cold and it is so SWEET to get into a warm truck.:smirk:
 
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kkanuck

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Thanks for the update.

I hope Roger has a look soon, and verify all, and correct any drawings....

It will be 26 degrees overnight here in Atlanta, so we will all be haveing a cold few days.


Tibor
 

kkanuck

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Lee,

Did you get the terminal, part # 5103 882A ?

This is the only part I am missing for my install? How much did it cost?

Cheers again
 

buxmont

New member
Lee,

Did you get the terminal, part # 5103 882A ?

This is the only part I am missing for my install? How much did it cost?

Cheers again

Tibor, I acquired all the parts from http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ but did not do it online, but what is nice is you can do a multiple parts search which list the parts name , price, and discounted price and purchase right from there. I called and talked to John (973-702-2514) who is VERY customer oriented, he took all the info and told me that some were at his warehouse and some were not and gave me a pretty accurate delivery time. The discounted price paid for the shipping and I did not have to drive to the dealer or pay tax, so it was cheaper ordering all those parts from them. The price for those terminals are .27 cents a piece. I just ordered all the material to do the high idle function from them as well. I'll keep you posted on that mod.:thumbup:
 

kkanuck

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Thanks for the info,

Do you have a parts list for the high idle function with parts numbers by chance?

When will you use the high idle function? Just curious when it is used most commonly?

Cheers,

Tibor
 

buxmont

New member
Tibor, I put the instructions which has the parts you need in the attachment. I plan to run the high idle while waiting for my wife who travels by air a lot. Pull into parking lot while either running the heat or ac depending on time of year, put movie into DVD player, maybe turn on a few lights and possibly get some paper work done. You would use this function anytime you need to sit with the truck running for a long period of time with multiple high draw equipment engaged.

In the post below Tibor asked "If you get a quote for all the parts, let me know."

I just received all the parts for the upgrade:bounce: (http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/) and it totaled $47.39, that includes shipping. :thumbup:

Lee
 

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kkanuck

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Thank you Lee,

Much appreciated.

If you get a quote for all the parts, let me know.

Where will you get the DRB III reprogramed to make this work after your wiring work?

Tibor
 

buxmont

New member
Tibor, I think I will be headed back to the dealership I purchased from, Bergey's Dodge in Lansdale, very competent service department so far but I've only had the van there twice, once to replace a bad steering rack and once to replace a bad Mass Air Sensor I think?:thinking: I guess this might be a real test for them but who knows,:idunno: I'm going to take the instructions in with me so I can't imagine it being that difficult.:wtf:
 

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