Replacing bearings in transmission

[Jakobemmanuel]

My transmission in my 2006 Dodge Sprinter **** the bed. While was cleaning out pan I noticed pieces of a race and needle bearings. Dropped the transmission and took it apart. I found the needle bearings that sit in the stator (which holds the B1 clutch plates) were damaged. I have been searching the internet and calling parts shops and local dealer but have not found this bearing. I don't even know the part number.

Any suggestions?

Also, since I got my tranny open, I have a chance to replace anything worth replacing. I've been looking for gasket/seal kits. All the friction plates are good and don't need to be replaced. I will replace both of the Sprag Clutches F1 and F2. Any suggestions on what I should replace?

Any suggestions on places to buy these parts?

 

[lindenengineering]

Transtar Industries .
Dennis

 

[Midwestdrifter]

There is a thread in the writeups with a info on DIY rebuilds. I would consider a master rebuild kit, and replace any worn hard parts.

 

[owner]

Is that the same issue as mine had... https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48249
That #1 thrust bearing is captive with the B1 clutch housing, and so it has to be ordered as a whole hard part.

 

[AdrianD]

Check out this website, look for 78211A. I think that's the bearing you are looking for.
http://ganzeboom.epaflex.nl/722-6

More info about the bearings here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/2168306-722-618-needle-bearing.html

Before I rebuilt my transmission I talked to the people at jpat.co.uk, communication and prices were excellent, however in the end I chose a local shop to get my parts, for speed and customer support in case they got the order wrong.

 

[Jakobemmanuel]

Many thanks to everyone here!

I ended up buying a stator (with the bearing installed) on Ebay ($45) for the 722.6. They had the drop down menu in Ebay to see if it matched my vehicle (2006 Dodge Sprinter). It said it matched. When it arrived it did not hold as many friction plates as the original. Perhaps it was from a 722.6 from a smaller Mercedes????

I thought I could press out the shaft to access the bearing to put on my old stator. I pressed out the shaft on my old stator. I don't recommend doing it. There was a spline in it which was very fine. Would be extremely difficult to line up. Also I didn't mark it to line up the key holes and channels the ATF travels. Probably be better if I showed pictures but I didn't take any. Again, my advice, don't take it apart.

Ended up sending the purchased stator back. I found another on Ebay which specifically said it came from a Sprinter. It was $50. Waiting on that now.

So far my rebuild list is:

B1 Stator (used from Ebay)
gasket reseal kit
Front F1 Sprag
Rear F2 Sprag
Output shaft center planet pinion washer (sonnax)
Bearing seal kit for K2 clutch (sonnax)
Bushing kit: pump and stator (sonnax)
Shim Kit
Dr Tranny's Assemblee Goo
Kooler Kleen (for transmission cooler)

I'm wondering if I should include:
the Sonnax valve body kit
pump wear plate
torque converter (or maybe flush out my old one?)

Again, thanks for the recommendations.

 

[Jakobemmanuel]

Also, I thought I should give a quick back story.

My Sprinter never gave me any problems with the transmission. Until riding down the interstate one day I suddenly lost engine engagement with the transmission. It was like the van was in neutral. I would push on accelerator but the engine would only rev. I pulled off to the side. Turned the car off, started it again and put it in gear. Still no engagement. But this time the engine would only rev to about 3000 rpm. I sat there for 5-10 minutes thinking about crying. But decided to give it another try. Started it up. Put it in gear, and sure enough it took right off. Only for about 1/2 a mile. I did this until I got it home. Luckily I was only 60 miles from home

It seemed like the longer I let it cool down, the further I could go. I got about 40 miles on my last try after letting it sit for a over an hour.

I checked all the simple solutions first. The 13 pin connector housing. Nope. The conductor plate...and upon install I noticed the broken bearings in the pan.

When I took the trans. apart and saw the bearing, I automatically thought...Oh! that must be the problem! But I'm realizing that I don't know enough about transmissions to know if the bearing was the cause or just a symptom of something bigger. So on that note, if anyone has a better understanding and can explain why my transmission behaved the way it did, I'm all ears.

Thanks

 

[owner]

The roller bearings collect on the speed sensors and cause false readings, which put the trans and ECU into limp mode. Im not sure why you were getting no drive though, maybe a bearing was blocking a port somewhere?