alexk243
KulAdventure
I have read so many write ups on this forum and received so much help so far from others on this forum that I felt I needed to do a write up to help anyone else in the process. Van was purchased in 2016 and I am just getting around to a write-up on the camper build, which is still ongoing (and I assume it will never end haha).
My goal was to make a camper van for the long road trips to go mountain biking and other outdoor adventures. Had to fit me, the dog and possibly a few friends. Had to get decent gas mileage and haul my bikes/equipment.
I shopped Sprinters for a while, tossing up T1N vs NCV3. Ended up getting a 2004 Dodge Sprinter 140 Wheelbase High roof passenger van. The van was used by a family before I bought it and had previously been a transport van (highway use) with a wheelchair lift. Van had over 230000 miles on it, but from what I had read that really didn't concern me. The rear A/C had been removed and the wheelchair lift no longer existed, but there was still 3 rows of seats and the duct work for the rear A/C.
Without knowing the game plan yet, I wanted to work on the electronics. I knew I would at least need one battery and wanted solar. It would be much easier to do electrical before insulation and interior was built. Also a MaxxFan was essential for airflow so I jumped right into those. I picked one with a smoke cover, although slightly more expensive I thought it matched the black color of my van better when closed. I also paid up for the one with the remote, which is really essential if you are driving by yourself.
The plan for the electronics were pretty basic at this point. 12v solenoid triggered when the alternator is running (D+ line from under driver seat) would connect the engine battery to the rear AUX battery, which I placed under the front passenger seat for now (cheap deep cycle from walmart for now, I know Ill replace it as the build continues). Solenoid is similar to this one. I know a lot of people like a more complicated solenoid to separate the batteries from each other, but for the most part I leave them disconnected, the solar really keeps the rear battery charged. I added a toggle switch in the D+ line so the solenoid is not always "on/hot" when the D+ is hot. I am sure they are concerns with this type of solenoid, but the previous RV we had (VW Rialta) used a similar system from the factory (VW with Winnebago conversion). Solar would charge the AUX battery through a charger and use 200w (2 panels) of solar on the roof.
The old AC duct work was removed leaving the roof exposed and the rusting seams... more on that later.
My goal was to make a camper van for the long road trips to go mountain biking and other outdoor adventures. Had to fit me, the dog and possibly a few friends. Had to get decent gas mileage and haul my bikes/equipment.
I shopped Sprinters for a while, tossing up T1N vs NCV3. Ended up getting a 2004 Dodge Sprinter 140 Wheelbase High roof passenger van. The van was used by a family before I bought it and had previously been a transport van (highway use) with a wheelchair lift. Van had over 230000 miles on it, but from what I had read that really didn't concern me. The rear A/C had been removed and the wheelchair lift no longer existed, but there was still 3 rows of seats and the duct work for the rear A/C.
Without knowing the game plan yet, I wanted to work on the electronics. I knew I would at least need one battery and wanted solar. It would be much easier to do electrical before insulation and interior was built. Also a MaxxFan was essential for airflow so I jumped right into those. I picked one with a smoke cover, although slightly more expensive I thought it matched the black color of my van better when closed. I also paid up for the one with the remote, which is really essential if you are driving by yourself.
The plan for the electronics were pretty basic at this point. 12v solenoid triggered when the alternator is running (D+ line from under driver seat) would connect the engine battery to the rear AUX battery, which I placed under the front passenger seat for now (cheap deep cycle from walmart for now, I know Ill replace it as the build continues). Solenoid is similar to this one. I know a lot of people like a more complicated solenoid to separate the batteries from each other, but for the most part I leave them disconnected, the solar really keeps the rear battery charged. I added a toggle switch in the D+ line so the solenoid is not always "on/hot" when the D+ is hot. I am sure they are concerns with this type of solenoid, but the previous RV we had (VW Rialta) used a similar system from the factory (VW with Winnebago conversion). Solar would charge the AUX battery through a charger and use 200w (2 panels) of solar on the roof.
The old AC duct work was removed leaving the roof exposed and the rusting seams... more on that later.
Last edited: