I'd add that the spade connections will not discolor at these temperatures. The sockets see 600F+ during soldering. I would not expect to see discoloration unless there was some arcing or very high contact resistance, but anything close to sufficient heat to discolor the spade socket can also de-solder them.
Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?
- Thread starter gohusaberg
- Start date
Kind folks, I found this thread on the Norcold refrigerator while trying to find out what is wrong with mine. I have a 2015 Navion and recently the refrigerator started acting strange. Preparing for a recent trip we turned it on and the auto feature set it to propane, this was the night before we left with the intention of the frig and freezer being ready for the food the next morning. Woke up to all the display lights flashing and it not working. Had to pull the 2amp fuse to get it to reset to off as pushing the on/off button had zero effect. So switch back on and with the engine running it locked in on battery but after a few miles down the road, the lights all starting flashing again. Error codes I have seen are 10 and 18. I have checked both fuses in the electrical box (20 and 2 amp) and both are good. Recommendations would be appreciated.
Are you sure that you didn't briefly start the vehicle (to move the vehicle a few feet or whatever) after having it operating in LP mode? That might be a path to the exact same problem that we've been discussing, and thus the solutions would apply. So maybe you started out on propane, but then briefly ran the engine for whatever reason, which switched the fridge to DC and resulted in the lock-up (and inability to switch back to LP) due to the on-board 20A fuse issue discussed in this thread. If you are completely unable to get it to run in LP or AC power modes, then your controller could be bad in some other way, as the on-board 20A fuse doesn't apply to those modes. It wouldn't hurt to verify that all power connections are tight, including the female spade sockets for the on-board 20A fuse - take some needle-nose pliers and compress them while the fuse is removed - as a debugging step.
There is an ignition signal wire (which tells the fridge that the engine is running and that DC power is available) going to the controller board. I suppose that a false "high" on that signal could cause it to try to switch to DC mode when DC power is not really available (the alternator is not supporting it). This sounds like an unlikely scenario to me though.
There is an ignition signal wire (which tells the fridge that the engine is running and that DC power is available) going to the controller board. I suppose that a false "high" on that signal could cause it to try to switch to DC mode when DC power is not really available (the alternator is not supporting it). This sounds like an unlikely scenario to me though.
Wine Country
Active member
After 4 years another 12 dc fuse blew. I am traveling and will replace when I get to Houston. The Norcold works on propane. With some high winds it presented a code 3 that is can’t restart. It runs on AC and of force propane.
Wine Country
Active member
My AC fuse went out. I replaced it that twice for AC fuse and twice for DC. I am going to have my dealer put in the new PC board and front panel. I am hoping to not have to do this in the future. I have a warranty on my 15 View and never used it. So why not. My PC board shows heat issues. Do the later units work better?
WinnieView1
Well-known member
As long as you buy something other than a NeverCold you should be ok.