Brake Switch Adjust and/or Change Install

[220629]

Thanks for the info.

Here is what my dead brake light switch looks like on the inside.

...

My 2004 brake switch was ok when removed. The housing and mechanical parts were good. I cleaned the contacts and it is now in with my spare parts canister. (At this point I don't remember what prompted me to change the 2004 switch. A mind is a terrible thing to waste.)

vic

Should the brake pedal return spring get involved, some info on the brake pedal spring is here.

Brake pedal return spring mount location?

I removed the brake pedal return spring trying to get more access to the brake light switch. Now I can't seem to see where the upper mounting location is for the spring. I see a hole in the under-dash body left from the sheet metal bending, but that leaves the spring without tension. Help...

sprinter-source.com

 

[evanm16]

Any advice on opening the break switch on a six pin without breaking the part?

 

[220629]

Any advice on opening the break switch on a six pin without breaking the part?

Do it very carefully?

If my memory is correct, I just used a couple small screwdrivers to get under to release the plastic keepers. I cleaned the contacts to keep the old switch as a spare. The contacts really weren't that bad though.

vic

 

[djc126]

Hi. On the 6-pin (non-ESP) version, the bottom pin on the B side is actually not connected (harness only has two wires on that side).
The Chrysler p/n is 05101496AD (MB A0015456409 or A0015459509).

I looked at the different brands available and got a URO brand (only has 5-pins to cut costs) as they offer a 2-yr warranty.
Just installed it yesterday. Fairly quick to get the old switch out. It may help to release the pedal spring, and use a block of wood to
push against brake pedal and lever against seat base. For new switch, connect the A set of contacts. Once you can get the two front
tabs through, hold body and try to slightly twist it to temporarily keep it in place. Take a break. Then try to use the rear part of the body
to leverage and twist fully into place (push down on the top tab). Connect the B set of contacts.

I will take apart my two old switches to see inside. Maybe a Lisle 56500 terminal release tool will help.

When I bought my van it was still possibly on the original switch (eventually had trouble shifting out of Park, brake lights wouldn't stay on,
sometimes get the wheel speed sensor light while driving, but I believe it braked OK). So OEM one was over 10yrs old (but van was parked
for a year). It seemed that a couple years later that the high mounted brake light no longer works although bulb is fine, will have to check
wiring from tail lights).

Second switch was made by TruckTech in Germany and lasted 8yrs (it started acting up ~2yrs ago and again last Fall, but the rear wheel
speed sensors likely got dirty when van briefly got stuck in some wet mud. After a long time, it suddenly worked fine for another 3mos,
until I encountered a sudden torrential rain storm on the highway and had to slow down). So ABS/ASR wasn't working right for quite
awhile, brake lights wouldn't stay on, and wheel speed sensor light would come on soon after putting van into gear (w/o any driving yet)
after a start. Much more effort needed to pump the brake pedal.

It doesn't hurt to use a blow gun nozzle to try to clear any debris that may be around the area of the rear wheel speed sensors.
You can't see them without removing the rotors.

Also, if you're stuck in traffic put the transmission into park.

I mainly drive highway (70-80%) and have only put on ~57K miles in close to 13yrs. But, if you plan to clean your contacts often it may be
needed every 10-15K, etc.

Regards,

 

[Brit]

Hello from Finland. This is my first post and I am writing to give a tip to the poor souls that have to change out the brake light with big hands. I think this job might be difficult with any hands to be honest but you will find it much easier if you follow this tip. If the end of the locking tab is sharp, you might want to file a little off the end then slightly bend back the skirt that holds against the back of the metal bracket, use a small cable tie to hold down the locking tab, and spray a little silicon spray on the part of the switch that comes through the metal bracket. With one elbow press the brake pedal and with the other hand slip the switch into place. When it is properly located, cut off the cable tie to release the locking tab. Piece of cake...relatively speaking.

 

[tbuyan]

NAFTA 2004 - 2006 have ESP as a standard option.

My 2004 3500 most definitely does not have ESP. Is there an ESP Delete option?
tb

 

[Cheyenne]

My 2004 3500 most definitely does not have ESP. Is there an ESP Delete option?
tb

What options are listed on your Data Card?

My UK spec includes 'BW1 Discont. electr. brake/dynam. handl. contr. syst.' as I do not even have ABS, you should have a similar code if you do not have ESP/ASR.

Keith.

 

[220629]

My 2004 3500 most definitely does not have ESP. Is there an ESP Delete option?
tb

ESP itself was an option.

Is it an RV conversion? Some 2004 commercial RV conversions are based upon pre-2004 OM612 running gear.

Another possibility is that the NAS aka NAFTA 3500 Cab Chassis models lagged a bit and came with the mechanical brake distribution lever.

As Cheyenne said, refer to your Datacard.

vic

Added:
This may help provide some symptoms that I encountered when the 2006 brake switch failed.

And the vacation travel hits keep on coming...

Had to do a rather abrupt stop on the interstate. No problem stopping. No squealing tires. After that stop the trio of lights was lit. ESP, ASR. Spinning Tire. No big deal. It will clear with a minute of engine off and restart. Nope. The shifter wasn't locked so #5 fuse had to be ok. Drove with the lights on and no cruise control. Cruise is disabled with those three lights on.

At a rest stop I decided to check for DTC's. None in history. There was a stop light switch CAN Bus notice. I decided a stop light switch adjustment was worth a try. The trio lights stayed on. Now the shifter won't unlock. Great. I checked fuse #5 continuity as good. Tried moving the switch plunger again with no results. I could manually release the shifter, but I didn't want to drive with no brake lights. I finally decided that installing my 2004 OEM removed switch (disassembled and cleaned for a spare) would be the answer.

After some difficulty getting my ham sized hands into the spaces provided, I got the suspected defective switch out. The spare switch was removed from the 2004 so should go right in. Wrong. I ended up using a hacksaw blade to trim off a bit of the small diamond shaped locating pin tip. From there it twisted properly into place with just a bit more trouble. (I used the cable tie trick to hold the plastic lock clip open for install.)

After the switch was installed the electrical connector was a b*tch to get into placed and locked. Did I mention ham sized hands? Maybe I should have installed the electrical connector before installing the switch.

The spare switch did the trick. We were back in business.

So after carrying many spare parts for years and not needing them, I have now dipped into the parts bin 3 times on this trip. The reality of traveling with an older Sprinter.

vic

Post #31

Steel Brake Line General Info

They will probably outlast the Sprinter or you. :wink: I have a double flare tool in my shop, I would think once you tighten it up, it would not matter what tool you use. But you sound like you are good with steelies. I changed mine on a 2005 Sprinter before this thread was posted, so I did not...

sprinter-source.com

 

[Midwestdrifter]

IIRC, cab chassis had ABS only if GVWR was >10,000lb. But it might have been a special order option.

 

[autostaretx]

In the T1N, the usual pair of options appeared together as:
BB0 BRAKING SYSTEM WITH ABS/ASR OR ABS/ETS
BB3 ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP)

Agreeing with Midwestdrifter, one of the 2006 Winnebago datacards i have does NOT include the BB3

--dick

 

[tbuyan]

Not a cab/chassis. Not an RV conversion. Just a plain jane '04 3500 OM647 low roof cargo van tin box dually with ASR but no ESP.
Data Card lists option BB0 - BRAKING SYSTEM WITH ABS/ASR OR ABS/ETS. No BB3 option listed. What is ETS?

I am simply pointing out that contrary to several posts that state all '04 -'06 NAFTA Sprinters have ESP, mine does not.

 

[220629]

Not a cab/chassis. Not an RV conversion. Just a plain jane '04 3500 OM647 low roof cargo van tin box dually with ASR but no ESP.
Data Card lists option BB0 - BRAKING SYSTEM WITH ABS/ASR OR ABS/ETS. No BB3 option listed. What is ETS?

I am simply pointing out that contrary to several posts that state all '04 -'06 NAFTA Sprinters have ESP, mine does not.

I have no idea how your particular Sprinter doesn't have ESP. ESP did become a "standard" option for NAS aka NAFTA Sprinters in 2004. That is consistent in most all NAS Sprinters.

Thanks for the heads up. I edited some of the posts to show that an owner should investigate before just trusting that ESP is standard.

ACRONYMS which may come up DRBIII, DAD

This is copied from my Tips for New to Sprinter owners thread. https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23409 I've received some inquiries as to Sprinter acronyms and abbreviation abbreviations. Having a separate thread may make this info easier to find. DRBIII, DAD and some other...

sprinter-source.com

Added:
Many acronyms are listed above.

vic

 

[Midwestdrifter]

With a special order, I believe it is possible to get ABS only? Just like how FedEX got the passenger seat and airbag removed

 

[tbuyan]

With a special order, I believe it is possible to get ABS only? Just like how FedEX got the passenger seat and airbag removed

Mebbe so. I imagine one could get nearly any crazy configuration (that met DOT & NSTSA standards) if you ordered 10,000 units, but mine appears to be a one-off. I'll list that as a valuable feature when I eventually sell it. If I don't crash it first for lack of ESP.

What is ETS?

 

[autostaretx]

What is ETS?

From the link Vic posted:
ETS - Electronic Traction System (aka ASR?) ETS may relate to a German acronym.

--dick

 

[tbuyan]

That's a relief! I was afraid it was Extra Tortuous Seats or Extremely Temperature Sensitive.

 

[Sandyk]

I have replaced my brake light switch a few time now and it's really difficult with the limited space. I think this last time I tried I damaged the wires going into the switch. Any suggestions on replacing the wiring plugs that go into the brake light switch?

 

[220629]

The Electrical Connector style is critical for a Brake Light Switch aka Stop Light Switch 4 pin replacement part. The OEM connector has offset detents for the connector body. Most Brake Switch listings will show the connector.

I ordered a switch which was not correct.



As an aside.
The 2006 switch failed to the point where the ABS, ESP, ASR dash light trio and brake light section failed. When I disassembled the switch I found that a spring steel cantilevered shorting bar/contact spring had separated at the hinged end. The contact unit was light duty so I presume it is associated with the ABS/ESP section of the switch. I suspect that the broken part had been loose for quite a time, but it was still basically functioning. It finally gave up the ghost. My 2004 OEM removed spare switch got us back on the road.

The incorrect switch above was the switch I ordered to replace the now in service spare part. The pins on the OEM switch were thinner or finer than the aftermarket replacement switch. I'm concerned that it may make a difference. I don't want to spread the female socket parts which could cause future problems. My plan is to order a switch from our local MB dealership. I have yet to do so. Maybe the pins on the MB dealership replacement switch will also be thicker? I'll report back when/if I receive the OEM replacement part.

vic

Added:
I noticed that the aftermarket brake switch doesn't not have the ratcheting adjustment feature which the OEM switch has.
Added2:
Turns out that the switch I received will most likely fit a NAS 2007 - 2008 NCV3 Sprinter. Detents opposite each other.

Some additional information about the 2006 switch failure. Post #10.

Older Sprinters for RV Conversion?

After finding a leaking brake line the day before starting back from vacation, I was thinking about the reality of traveling using an older Sprinter. The T1N's are fairly basic and will pretty much allow a DIY maintenance program. Even with decent maintenance an older Sprinter can develop...

sprinter-source.com

Added:
Switch Information.

 

[My Big Adventure]

Just reinstalled mine on a 2003 sprinter, non-esp. I had a difficult time pushing and turning the brake switch using my bare hand even with some grease. I found that if you used 9/16 ranch it would give you leverage to turn and depressed the brake using your elbow made the turn much easier.
View attachment 116732

worked well! I've done this repair twice now. I learned that if you use this techniques while pushing from the back of the switch you can get it strted. I also used some silicone grease on the interface.

 

[220629]

Some additional Stop Light Switch Info

Keep in mind that unless depressed, the pedal spring pulls the brake pedal metal arm back against the Stop Light Switch spring loaded plunger. When the brake pedal is depressed the pedal arm moves away from the switch plunger. At that time the Brake Switch Contacts close (Brake Lights On) and the Module Contacts open. Until the Brake Pedal is depressed the CAB Module Contacts are held closed by the compressed spring loaded plunger.

With the Stop Light Switch in a relaxed position. (Plunger extended.)
Pin #1 and #2 = N.O. (CAB aka HCU aka ABS Module Contacts)

Pin #3 and #4 = N.C. Stop Light Contacts (Higher Amps)

I checked the 2007/2008 contacts vs the 2006 contacts and verified them as the same. I cut the 2007 aftermarket switch white plastic body to create an offset slot similar to the 2006 electrical connector. That gives me a 2007 spare switch which will allow the 2006 connector to plug in. I'm still not thrilled with the thicker profile metal contact pins, but it will work if needed.

In this picture I tried to get an angle to show the size difference of the pins OEM vs aftermarket. The difference isn't excessive, but may open the female electrical pins on the vehicle side connector. The aftermarket switch doesn't have the plunger ratchet teeth adjustment which is included in the OEM switch design. When I compared the plungers together the lengths appeared the same. The fixed plunger length should work.



vic

Added:
I decided to reassemble the wonky 2006 switch. I left the broken cantilevered CAB module contact leaf out and just reassembled the stop contacts in the switch. The cleaned Brake Light contacts are good. I now have an OEM switch (labeled as incomplete) with only Brake Light contacts working.

The held closed CAB contacts are now completely defeated and always Normally. The CAB module will not see a changing position when the brake pedal is depressed. That will affect the Cruise Control operation and the shifter interlock operation, but at least the partially operating switch will provide brake light operation. I'll carry both the modified 2007/2008 stop light switch and the brake lights only 2006 switch. I may never need to install either switch.

Being that I have spare switches, I will not be purchasing a dealership switch. If anyone does purchase a dealership switch please post some pictures of the electrical contact pins. I'm curious to see if those pins are the thinner profile type like the OEM 2006 switch has.