Brake Switch Adjust and/or Change Install

[220629]

Brake Lights On Light Switch Repair Slip Adjust Adjustment Replace No Cruise Control

I was doing a search to try and help out Spagthorpe with his inability to move the shifter here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=50478

I had remembered that there was a brake switch adjustment procedure, but none of my search words brought results easily. Turns out it probably wouldn't help his situation anyway. I am re posting this in Write-ups to provide more search word hits. Hope this does some good. AP

Original thread for brake switch:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4298

In post #13 Talkinghorse43 writes:

Maybe the brake light switch? Just guessing here, but some others have had a similar problem. Here's a procedure I read to reset the brake light switch. It's from the yahoo sprintervan forum:

"Well Mike S and everyone who wrote in an attempt to help me, I say thank you. As has happened so often, I picked up the phone this morning for more specific help from none other than Herr Doktor A. Bittenbinder. First, I gave him new information that I had not passed to the group because I only got it just before I called him. The brake lights were on and wouldn't go off (with the key on). He diagnosed the problem immediately as I'm sure many of you would have had I given that info initially.

Andy gave me explicit instructions on how to fix the problem or to discover that I needed a new brake switch. As luck would have it, it was OK and I fixed it. I will try to explain it as simply as Andy did for me.

Lying on the floor (you might want to cover the seat runners/rails - I tore my shirt - but just an old T-shirt - you might be wearing something better) looking up into the underdash area where the brake parts are located you will first see the brake pedal then connected several inches higher, the rod going to the master cylinder then just above that by a couple of inches the brake pedal pivot/mounting point - just above that is the end of the pedal lever - you will find the brake switch that touches the end of the pedal to activate the brake lights and deactivate the cruise control. It is a small white plastic square with a "plunger" coming out of it to touch the end of the brake lever. With the engine running, press the brake pedal down as far as it will go and grab the "plunger" and pull it toward the end of the brake. It will come out from the switch and make a sound like very fine comb teeth being brushed across a piece of hard plastic. That is self adjusting teeth in the plunger that obviously did not self adjust. I actually did this a couple of times because I kept going to the back to see if the brake lights had gone out - they had not so I thought the fix had not worked. Not the case ....the brakes just had to "recycle" or clear it's throat. The cruise was once again working and the brake lights were out except when they should be on."

Don't know if this will solve your problem, but might be worth a shot. Talkinghorse43

Thanks to Talkinghorse43/Doktor A

***********
Added:
Some aftermarket replacement brake switches may not have the ratcheting teeth needed for adjustment. Post #38.
***********

2014/01/17 Edit: My 2004 with ESP brake switch is Dodge Part Number #60856230AA See below. That is the 4 pin switch for T1N with ESP. (ESP is standard on NAS model year 2004 and up.) The non-ESP brake switch has 6 pins.

...
Thank you for the information Vic, your posts have helped me a lot. Just a heads up I think you accidentally typed the part number wrong. I believe it's 68056230AA not 60856230AA. Got the 8 and 0 mixed up.

Some other possible numbers.
0015452009 0015458709 68056230AA
Removed 2006 switch = MB logo 001 545 20 09

Added:
Unlocking Shifter.

A tool that should always be available to insert into the shift lever release is your ignition key. With foot on the brake, insert the key to push and release the lever, shift into neutral, and then start the truck.

This picture shows using a blue pen to release.

 

[NelsonSprinter]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

When the adjustment didn't make my Brake lights turn off I replaced it and couldn't find a write up on "replacing it" so I'll add my 2 cents.
Under the steering wheel and at the top of the brake pedal assembly is a switch that can be replaced if you're nimble enough. Some Sprinter years have different part numbers so get the one for your year and options! Mine is a 2002 T1N without ESP so the MB part number was A 001545950905. Top one in picture below in post #3

To remove the old brake switch, find the tab holding it in place behind the steel plate at the top of the brake pedal. It should be at 3 O'clock position as seen if you're facing the bake pedal. Press the tab in towards the center of the switch while turning the switch counter-clockwise 90 degrees, which is hard to do with one hand and 2 won't fit in the small space. Pull the switch to the front of the van, out of the hole and unplug the wire connections by pressing the tabs and pulling the wire connector off.

To put in the new brake switch, plug the wires back in and put the switch back thru the hole it came out of with the narrow guide on top and larger guide on bottom. Press the tab that was holding it in initially while also turning the switch clockwise 90* and it should snap in place.

 

[220629]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

When the adjustment didn't make my Brake lights turn off I replaced it and couldn't find a write up on "replacing it" so I'll add my 2 cents.
...

Thanks for that.

I know that there is a different brake switch needed between ESP and non-ESP Sprinters. Most all NAS aka NAFTA 2004 - 2006 2500 models have ESP as a standard option. I don't know the part number. Maybe someone will add that?

My 2004 2500 with ESP brake switch is Dodge Part Number #60856230AA 68056230AA . That is the 4 pin switch for T1N with ESP. (ESP should be standard on NAS model year 2004 2500 and up.)

The non-ESP brake switch has 6 pins. 2002 T1N without ESP. MB part number was A 001545950905. (Some listings may not include the first zero in the part number.)

If your NAS aka NAFTA 2004 - 2006 (3500) has a brake force distribution mechanical lever (rear axle mounted) then you likely do not have ESP. For 3500 models refer to your Datacard.

Some more info.













vic

 

[lizardcharmer]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

Well, you may not like me yelling but I tell you, it's a 5.9 move to put the new switch in.
i've been trying and trying, guess my hand is too weak, being I'm too old.

 

[220629]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

My Dodge OEM new switch wouldn't go in either. I finally used clippers and a small file to trim the tab areas to allow the new one to fit in to turn.

When trying to remove the existing switch, don't make the mistake of twisting it the wrong way. It will not come out, but will get stuck to the point that it adds many minutes and much frustration to the job to just get it back to the original position. Don't ask me how I know this.

Accessibility is a real b*tch.

vic

Added:
As you face the switch plunger the switch unit rotates counter clockwise aka anti-clockwise to bring the larger tab up to the visible slot. The passenger side (right) slot. Do not rotate the switch so the visible smaller tab aligns with the visible slot. The switch will probably get stuck.

 

[lizardcharmer]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

I need some help, my van is still stuck in park. Also the cruse control won't work!
OK, I have brake pads worn
ESP. Electronic stability program. Is on
ASR. Acceleration skid Control Is on
I have replaced the brake switch under the peddle and adjusted but it wouldn't adjust all the way out and I assume that is because the brakes are too worn

I am in moab UT, a very small town bad not much help here....??
Can some one also tell me how to use the smiles on the right? When I choose one it types the word.........???

 

[djc126]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

Hi. Just put a thin pen into the hole under "D" on the shifter to get it out of park.

Your brake pads are probably worn down to the brake pad sensors.
All your pads or just the rear ones?

ESP needs working brakes to function properly.

That is why the lights are on.

Regards,

 

[Jrmorgan]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

I followed Aqua Puttana instructions to a "T". Problem is I have very large hands for the space allowed. I tried a number of times to release the tab and try and counter clock the switch. No luck. Since I am replacing the switch this is what I did. I took a flathead screw driver, placed it up against the push tab to release the switch and broke it off. Switch turned very easily. Removed it. Remember only do this if you are going to replace the @*@^@(^W@( switch.

 

[vanski]

Re: Brake Switch Adjust

Brake Lights On Light Switch Repair Slip Adjust Adjustment Replace No Cruise Control

I was doing a search to try and help out Spagthorpe with his inability to move the shifter here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=50478

I had remembered that there was a brake switch adjustment procedure, but none of my search words brought results easily. Turns out it probably wouldn't help his situation anyway. I am re posting this in Write-ups to provide more search word hits. Hope this does some good. AP

Original thread for brake switch:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4298

In post #13 Talkinghorse43 writes:

Maybe the brake light switch? Just guessing here, but some others have had a similar problem. Here's a procedure I read to reset the brake light switch. It's from the yahoo sprintervan forum:

"Well Mike S and everyone who wrote in an attempt to help me, I say thank you. As has happened so often, I picked up the phone this morning for more specific help from none other than Herr Doktor A. Bittenbinder. First, I gave him new information that I had not passed to the group because I only got it just before I called him. The brake lights were on and wouldn't go off (with the key on). He diagnosed the problem immediately as I'm sure many of you would have had I given that info initially.

Andy gave me explicit instructions on how to fix the problem or to discover that I needed a new brake switch. As luck would have it, it was OK and I fixed it. I will try to explain it as simply as Andy did for me.

Lying on the floor (you might want to cover the seat runners/rails - I tore my shirt - but just an old T-shirt - you might be wearing something better) looking up into the underdash area where the brake parts are located you will first see the brake pedal then connected several inches higher, the rod going to the master cylinder then just above that by a couple of inches the brake pedal pivot/mounting point - just above that is the end of the pedal lever - you will find the brake switch that touches the end of the pedal to activate the brake lights and deactivate the cruise control. It is a small white plastic square with a "plunger" coming out of it to touch the end of the brake lever. With the engine running, press the brake pedal down as far as it will go and grab the "plunger" and pull it toward the end of the brake. It will come out from the switch and make a sound like very fine comb teeth being brushed across a piece of hard plastic. That is self adjusting teeth in the plunger that obviously did not self adjust. I actually did this a couple of times because I kept going to the back to see if the brake lights had gone out - they had not so I thought the fix had not worked. Not the case ....the brakes just had to "recycle" or clear it's throat. The cruise was once again working and the brake lights were out except when they should be on."

Don't know if this will solve your problem, but might be worth a shot. Talkinghorse43

Thanks to Talkinghorse43/Doktor A

2014/01/17 Edit: My 2004 with ESP brake switch is Dodge Part Number #60856230AA . That is the 4 pin switch for T1N with ESP. (ESP is standard on NAS model year 2004 and up.) The non-ESP brake switch has 6 pins.

Just wanted to chime in here regarding my encounter with this issue today..

Year - 2004 Om647

Symptoms - Cruise control suddenly cut out. While accelerating at one point all 'gas' cutout wile accelerating. ABS ESP and Traction warning lights came on. Brake lights were always on and when brake pedal was pushed the brake lights would go off.

DAD gave me - P2208 "Can Communication with ESP/ABS/BAS Control Unit : Timeout.

I first checked fuse #5 as many folks had encountered this issue when that fuse blew... Mine was fine.

I did just as Talkinghorse (Per the good Dr A) outlined and the problem seems to have been fixed.

Big thanks to Aqua Puttana, Talkinghorse, and of course Dr A!!!!!!!

 

[glvu]

Just reinstalled mine on a 2003 sprinter, non-esp. I had a difficult time pushing and turning the brake switch using my bare hand even with some grease. I found that if you used 9/16 ranch it would give you leverage to turn and depressed the brake using your elbow made the turn much easier.

 

[thatchillaxdude]

I'm so glad this thread exists. I just ordered the part from O'Reilly, should arrive in a couple hours, then I get to install it in 22°F temps! Just fired-up the buddy heater!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[UPDATE] OK, I replaced the switch. Easy enough, once I wedged my fat-self underneath the steering wheel. But... it didn't start. It started maybe 30min later after I did my normal "turn key to ON position, cycle the gear shift lever a few time, & turn key to START position." At least I can rule out the brake light switch now, but what's the next step now?

 

[Midwestdrifter]

What does No start entail? No Crank? No Start? No Clicking?

 

[autostaretx]

You might start a new thread ... "won't start" should not be affected by the brake switch at all.

You shouldn't have to "cycle" the gear shift lever ... unless the contacts in the Shift Lever Assembly (SLA) or the park/neutral switch in the transmission isn't working properly. (there is a thread or two about that latter hidden switch)

--dick

 

[Mike Rancourt]

I had my 6 pin switch go out and FIXED it instead of replacing it. If you take it apart and inspect it, you might see a burnt contact. I scraped it clean with a small flathead screwdriver, reassembled, and the problem is solved. The general idea can be seen in this video, though our contacts don’t conveniently pull out with needle nose pliers.

 

[SprinterLex]

............ My 2004 with ESP brake switch is Dodge Part Number #60856230AA . That is the 4 pin switch for T1N with ESP. (ESP is standard on NAS model year 2004 and up.) The non-ESP brake switch has 6 pins. ..........

Vic
[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the information Vic, your posts have helped me a lot. Just a heads up I think you accidentally typed the part number wrong. I believe it's 68056230AA not 60856230AA. Got the 8 and 0 mixed up.

 

[220629]

...
Thank you for the information Vic, your posts have helped me a lot. Just a heads up I think you accidentally typed the part number wrong. I believe it's 68056230AA not 60856230AA. Got the 8 and 0 mixed up.

Thanks.
I changed the number.

vic

 

[hkpierce]

I was doing a search to try and help out Spagthorpe with his inability to move the shifter here:

I had my brake switch's C2 (2-wire - basically the brake lights) and C1 (3-wire - seems to be tied into the Shifter Assembly and ABS controller) connectors off, and then I had to move the van. The van's shifter would not move out of PARK. Attached the brake switch to C1 only, and full shifting capabilities returned.

 

[hkpierce]

Because these switches are a pain to remove and replace, here are pictures of what you are getting into. There are two wire connectors (C1 and C2) in the back of the switch. The access is so poor they are basically impossible to remove in place. Time is better spent removing the switch first. Behind the mounting plate is a key that, in theory, you squeeze to disengage. I found it almost impossible to both squeeze and twist due to lack of room.




What I found is that I could use a screw driver to drive the key back enough for it to hang up on the mounting plate (#1 in yellow). Then I used the screwdriver against the tab to twist the switch the 30-degrees to its release point (#2 in yellow).

To reinstall, I trimmed a bit of the back collar off and then used the screwdriver against the lower tab to rotate the switch to its locked position (red arrow).

 

[hkpierce]

Here is what my dead brake light switch looks like on the inside.



The burnt switch is visible:


It got so hot that it burnt the plastic plunger


Note the C1 connector has (I think) 1) the shifter assembly circuit closed when the brake pedal is not engaged, then 2) mid-pedal push it opens the circuit so both are open, and then 3) if the pedal is pushed all the way down the antilock controller circuit is closed.

 

[hkpierce]

For FYI for those searching by codes: my Autel AP200 registered these codes due to the faulty brake light switch:

P2404​

P0703-128​

C1022​

C1200​

I am not sure which of these codes did it, but it triggered the yellow wheel slipping idiot light. Once the new switch was installed, clearing the codes extinguished the light.

Here is an example AP200 PDF output: