Trying to do fuel pressure solinoid test

Wicked

New member
Hi everyone
I have a 2003 Dodge Sprinter 3500 2.7 612
Last week it died while driving about 35 mph, would not restart. Gently sloping terrain, very small load, no heavy acceleration, no potholes. Towed home (actually girlfriends house, as I'm far from home)

Fuel filter changed 3700 miles ago.

No warning lights. OBD 2 shows 0 codes

Removed CPS and tested with multi meter, put back in and tach shows rpm'S from cranking. Checked cps wire with multi meter.

Checked cam position sensor, seems good, getting voltage and sending signal

Injector leak down was good right before this happened

Both fuel pumps seem to be working good.

Trying to perform a fuel pressure solenoid test, but with very little room and not much visual I need some tips.

I know I need to pinch off the injector return line and this is no problem as it's easy to see. Near the fuel pressure solenoid there is one of the clear fuel lines that run back to the high pressure fuel pump. And on the other side of the rail it looks like a rubber hose comes out then goes to fitting the heads to the filter then the tank.

Is it the rubber hose that I attach the vial to?

Any help would be appreciated greatly, also if you have any other ideas I would like to hear them.

Mark
 

SneakyAnarchistVanCamper

Reading till my eyesbleed
Injector return lines are to be removed, then place 3/8" hose from your leak down test onto the injector return fittings, simply to relieve pressure so we don't break anything (per dr a). With the cam sensor unplugged so it won't start, and the fuel rail solenoid plugged in, it should leak nothing.

What we are doing is clamping all return lines *except* the one that the fuel rail solenoid dumps into, so we can measure if the fuel rail solenoid leaks anything. I am not familiar with the types of hose material or their arrangement on a 2003 om612, but the concept should be the same.

What kind of scanner do you have? A generic obd2 scanner will not do the job, you need a sprinter specific scanner. Do you have a service manual? (See my signature). The manual confused me too. Keyword, banjo bolt - that's a bolt that has a fitting to allow fluid through it. Hope this helps, it's been a while since I did it and my engine is slightly different from yours.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27630







 

Wicked

New member
Thanks, I looked at pics of fuel rails and could see the banjo bolt and rubber hose. Will try to remove today and do testing

Mark
 

220629

Well-known member
Not that anyone asked...

Before mucking around with the fairly fragile, old plastic return fittings I would check the fuel rail pressure while cranking. If it is 2900 psi or higher I would leave the fuel system intact and look for other problems.

:2cents: vic
 

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
You mention OBD and codes. You must have a code reader. See if it can tell you the fuel pressure while you are cranking the engine over.
Along with 2900psi, the ECU needs a signal from the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor to tell the injectors to start firing. Don't overlook them.
*but since it was running fine before you did the filter change and the om612 fuel system is notorious for being difficult to re-prime, you should probably continue to focus on the fuel system.
Also a "mighty-vac" is helpful for drawing fuel all the way up to and through the low pressure pump.
 
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SneakyAnarchistVanCamper

Reading till my eyesbleed
Thanks Vic, how do I check the pressure?
You can only check rail pressure with a scanner. Connect to the engine control module (ECM/ECU), or your scanner may call it "CDI" or "Common rail". Somewhere in there should be rail pressure.

I agree with Type2, last thing you did was mess with the fuel filter and lines so it's possible there is air intrusion there. Do you see any bubbles in the clear line? Do you have a clear line on the fuel filter outlet? If not that could help diagnose the simple stuff. Worm gear clamps are known to eat into a hose and cause a sneaky leak.




Btw: Beware, high pressure lines can kill you if cracked loose while under pressure. Eye protection is a must as well.
 

Wicked

New member
Actually the filter change was 3700 miles ago, used a small pump to prime and had no problems. No air in system.

Did the fuel solinoid test yesterday twice, same results both times after 10 seconds of cranking had 50ml in vial.

Removing solinoid today, have parts on the way.

Mark
 

Tweeter89

New member
Injector return lines are to be removed, then place 3/8" hose from your leak down test onto the injector return fittings, simply to relieve pressure so we don't break anything (per dr a). With the cam sensor unplugged so it won't start, and the fuel rail solenoid plugged in, it should leak nothing.

What we are doing is clamping all return lines *except* the one that the fuel rail solenoid dumps into, so we can measure if the fuel rail solenoid leaks anything.
Just to clarify, you do want the solenoid plugged in? I ask this because the manual states that when deactivated its state is closed. I performed this test and It failed when plugged in but passed when un plugged. That would tell me that the valve/seat is good but that theres and electrical/control issue?

Van starts and runs fine but getting a combination of P2018 and P2016 codes which trigger limp mode.
 

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