Is this a bad thrust bearing?

ECU

Well-known member
You'll want that heater. I found that on that cold day when snow is deep and traffic is slow that my van will start to freeze over.
Stuck in 15 mph traffic in 15 degree weather and the ice forms so deep on the windshield that it becomes hard to see and the engine temp is about 110F.
The joke is that the control button is the symbol for bacon. The far right of the heater. Top is A/C. Middle bowtie button is that heater and it only comes on when the engine is running. Bottom button is REST, to recover energy from the heat system after you stop. It only works when the engine is off. It runs for about 20 minutes to pull the heat or cold from your van's heater system.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
On T1Ns the 4x4 controls are fairly simple.

When you push the button, the 4x4 control unit triggers one of several vacuum control solenoids under the van near the drivers door. These control the vacuum flow to the actuators which in turn move gears and shafts to do what you want.

The transfer case has two actuators. One for 4x4 on/off, and one for low range on/off. As far as I can tell, the 4x4 control unit has no electronic feedback from the diff. it may have a switch in the T case to indicate 4x4 on/off It has some built in logic, and a wait timer. If you have the owners manual, its gives you a description of how to use the 4x4 system. There are certain conditions which need to be met, or the control unit won't switch the solenoids. For example, I am pretty sure it won't let you engage low range unless you are nearly going slow and in neutral.


I have also found that the T case and rear diff lock can get what is called "torque locked" if you are stopped when you turn them off/on. This means that even though the indicator light is off, you may need to roll the van forward, or put it into reverse briefly to release the load, and let the vacuum/spring move the actuator.

The rear diff lock is easy enough to test. Jack up the rear axle, and turn the lock on. IN neutral, you and a helper can confirm if both wheel are locked together.

Alternatively you can take the diff cover off and observe the locking actuator move. You will need silicone, or a new gasket, and some gear oil (about 1.8L).


The nice thing about the T1N 4x4 system is that at its heart it is purely mechanical (even if it does have electronics for the buttons). If you find the system wont work for some electrical reason, you can bypass the solenoids and connect vacuum directly to the actuator.


FYI. User Eric Experience has a number of T1N 4x4s, and has used then extensively. He may be willing to answer any questions you have about operation and usage. Obviously read the manual first though.
 

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