Removing Rusted Calipers

[JCMiller23]

Hey All!

I am trying to change the rotors and pads and they are seriously rusted! I have got the calipers off but I am struggling with (I am not sure the name) the bit that is a frame around the pads. There are two bolts, 19 mm that are on the inside of the part facing the vehicle.

I have tried hitting it with a hammer in various directions in an attempt to break up the rust. I tried WD-40 initially then got some PB Blaster, still no luck. I have been using a breaker bar with a 3 ft pipe attached and have broken one ratcheting socket handle so far.

My next step, I figure, might be to try a propane torch, heat it up and let it cool, although I have heard that with the way this works, I would need to heat up the housing too (and cool it off first, thus squeezing the bolt before it cools and shrinks), but it seems a bit large to do this. I also thought of getting an air hammer and compressor and going at it, but I would like to try all other options before spending big bucks on new equipment.

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

[220629]

... There are two bolts, 19 mm that are on the inside of the part facing the vehicle.

...

I think that they are 18 mm. Using a larger sized wrench may be negating some of the breaking power of striking with a hammer. The wrench sort of wedges/jams before transferring the sharp hammer blow to the wrench.

My method to remove those is to apply a 6 point wrench, hold the wrench in place, and strike the wrench with a BFH aka large hammer. That usually does the job.

It may be worth double checking the fastener size.

vic

 

[Patrick of M]

Decent impact driver and a strong mapp gas torch, heat applied locally for 5mins as long as there are not adjacent rubber bits to be damaged....oxy/acetylene torch if you have it is a more focused heat but will damage parts more easily, I quite like my TS8000 from Benzomatic. Good torch, if a little fragile, it will cherry red steel with patience and mapp gas.

 

[NelsonSprinter]

just make sure your turning the wrench clockwise as seen from outside the rotor or you'll just be tightening it and snap off the bolts/ strip the threads
Heat has always worked for me, but let the bolt cool down 3-5 mins 1st

 

[Hooligan]

I've never had any luck with a propane torch, it doesn't put out enough heat. But make sure you're turning the right way and be patient because the only way I've found in getting a stripped bolt out is to weld a cheap wrench onto it. Good luck.

 

[Goofy foot]

MAPP gas...

 

[Patrick of M]

Hey All!

I also thought of getting an air hammer and compressor and going at it, but I would like to try all other options before spending big bucks on new equipment.

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

Getting a compressor and impact driver will change your wrenching life!
You don't have to spend big bucks on a compressor or impact driver, but you should spend more on the impact driver as a decent 1/2 driver with good torque figures is where it's at. Compressors don't have to be big, as it is the energy in the compressed air that does the work. A small compressor filling a punk tank can do a lot of work.
I only buy oil lubed compressors as the "oiless" ones are noisier and wear out faster. I have a little worksite oil lubed compressor (3 gal) that I bought on sale at Sears 10yrs ago, still going strong. When I need to run more than one framing nailer etc it can't keep up, but for removing lug nuts, etc can be done if you are patient. I even used it at a remote site to run my 3/4" impact, but in that case it was filling a punk tank, and I would get maybe 5-10 secs of good impact before I lost full torque, but that was because of the size of the punk tank. The other advantage of a smaller compressor is you can run it off a smaller generator without damaging it or the generator, and you can plug it into regular receptacles without blowing fuses, can't do that with my Big Bertha.

https://goo.gl/images/oWfxss