has anybody had a rear Diff replaced?

robotross

New member
My sprinter is making a loud clunking noise when I go from coasting to accelerating and when I shift from forward to reverse or vice-versa. The dealship says is almost two inches of play in a pin that connects the drive to the rear Diff (if i understood them correctly) and they say they need to replace the rear diff and it will cost almost $4000, has this happened to anybody else and how much did it cost you?

I have an '02 316cdi
and the dealership is hinckley in Salt Lake City


I have heard people talk about gear ratios for better gas mileage on this forum. I don't know what my gear ratio is now but would this be a potential opportunity to make that improvement?
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I can't help with your specific questions, but if you decide to go the rebuild route check this post.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4734

It may save you money on parts. I wonder why they didn't mention rebuild? Do they think the housing has been damaged? Hope this does some good. vic
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
I have heard people talk about gear ratios for better gas mileage on this forum. I don't know what my gear ratio is now but would this be a potential opportunity to make that improvement?
The rear axle ratio is encoded to the ECM when it is 'VIN specific' locked to its host vehicle. The rear axle ratio is NOT 'version coded' into the ECM (for example, cruise control is version coded), therefore it cannot be reprogrammed at will, even using the factory scan computer.

Changing the rear axle ratio would require replacing the ECM as well. The replacement ECM would then be coded with the new ratio and locked down. Doktor A
 

maxextz

Rollin Rollin Rollin.....
The rear axle ratio is encoded to the ECM when it is 'VIN specific' locked to its host vehicle. The rear axle ratio is NOT 'version coded' into the ECM (for example, cruise control is version coded), therefore it cannot be reprogrammed at will, even using the factory scan computer.

Changing the rear axle ratio would require replacing the ECM as well. The replacement ECM would then be coded with the new ratio and locked down. Doktor A
thats just crazy:crazy:, thats what i dont like about modern computer controlled vehicles, gone are the days of using your toolbox at the side of the road and getting going again then patting yourself on the back:smilewink: nowdays your stranded have to get towed and have a dealer shove his hand in your pocket and take all your money and then pat himself on the back:shifty: oh well.
 

Ciprian

Spark Plugs not allowed!
The rear axle ratio is encoded to the ECM when it is 'VIN specific' locked to its host vehicle. The rear axle ratio is NOT 'version coded' into the ECM (for example, cruise control is version coded), therefore it cannot be reprogrammed at will, even using the factory scan computer.

Changing the rear axle ratio would require replacing the ECM as well. The replacement ECM would then be coded with the new ratio and locked down. Doktor A
Just curious, how would the ECM know you changed the ratio? Maybe through the ABS thingie...
And what would happen if you would change the ratio without changing the ECM?
 

ECU

Well-known member
A local fleet mechanic did a rebuild. Said it was easy.
Dealers don't rebuild. They only replace. That is why they are so expensive.:eek:
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Just curious, how would the ECM know you changed the ratio? Maybe through the ABS thingie...
And what would happen if you would change the ratio without changing the ECM?
The transmission output shaft speed is not measured directly but rather is calculated by the TCM from rear wheel sensor signal data and the programmed rear axle ratio.

If you changed the rear axle ratio without changing the programmed ratio you would most likely set an immediate 'transmission slippage' DTC (2502, on a DRBIII) which will put the vehicle into a "controlled" limp home mode, and light the MIL.

A controlled limp home mode (as opposed to a 'permanent' limp home mode) in this case, would likely have the TCM place the transmission into 3rd gear and restrict it to 3rd gear only, for forward drive. Doktor A
 
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briansprinter

New member
I've got an 03 2500 that the first diff went out at 36k. Dealer replaced under warranty with a factory reman entire axle.Since I did't take that one apart I can't say what exactly went wrong, but sounds like a similar problem to yours- blown ring gear. That diff lasted for 42k miles and blew up this January. Dealer nor Dodge rep would stand behind it and yes, they wanted 4,000 plus to replace it. When I got into the diff, the wimpy 4 way yolk had snapped, throwing all sorts of tidbits around. The ring and pinion luckily survived, enabling their re-use. The spider gears, 4 way and carrier bearings ran me about 600. Another 100 for cryo, 200 to a diff guru and a very cold set of toes land fingers later I put everything back under the truck.

If I were to do it again, I'd seriously consider putting one in from a boneyard. I cannot endorse these guys- but here's a link...http://www.qualitysprinter.com/sprinter_parts.shtml

Or better yet, have a real rear axle built for it that doesn't cost a minor fortune. Dyna....11"
 

SteinarN

New member
The rear axle ratio is encoded to the ECM when it is 'VIN specific' locked to its host vehicle. The rear axle ratio is NOT 'version coded' into the ECM (for example, cruise control is version coded), therefore it cannot be reprogrammed at will, even using the factory scan computer.

Changing the rear axle ratio would require replacing the ECM as well. The replacement ECM would then be coded with the new ratio and locked down. Doktor A
One more reason to stick to the manual tranny.
 

Ciprian

Spark Plugs not allowed!
One more reason to stick to the manual tranny.
I would have definitely bought a manual transmission if it was available this side of the pond. I would rather replace a clutch once in a while than a transmission.
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
I would have definitely bought a manual transmission if it was available this side of the pond. I would rather replace a clutch once in a while than a transmission.
It's not quite that simple. Expensive dual-mass flywheels, clutch hydraulics, synchros, etc enter the equation.

But the improved fuel economy and driver control over shift points are big advantages for the manual gearbox. Doktor A
 

robotross

New member
well, this debacle is finally over. Rebuilding the Read Diff cost me $3800 and 14 days without my precious van. The Dealership (hinckly dodge in Salt Lake City) had a hell of a time with the rebuild, they couldn't find the neccessary shim that facilitates proper alighneent of the driveshaft and had to reorder the part three times (aparently receiving the wrong shim each time) and call mercedes in germany before they got it figured out.

I live in my van so it was a long expensive 14 days without a home or transportation. I'm glad it's over but now the breaks are doing something that they were not when I dropped it off. if I press lightly on the breaks they make a clicking noise like ABS is engaging but the ABS light does not come on and when I press the breaks harder the noise and the Pulse feeling go away. At first I thought it was just rusty disks from sitting around for two weeks but i gave it a day of driving and even tried lightly riding the breaks and it has not gone away. any ideas?
 

briansprinter

New member
I have a thought or two on the brakes-

When the axles go back in, the airgap on the abs pickups have to be very very tight.If they are too close, they will rub on the plate and make a slight click as the plates are not 100%true. I set mine up too loose , which caused a fault in the abs system . It did not make any noise though.

The other thing could be as simple as a bent dust cover rubbing, they tend to get a bit banged up in the process of a rebuild.

Did the same tires go back on where they came from? I neglected once to put my spare into rotation and when I did have to use it ( 1 tire NEW, 3 50% worn) it played a role in the abs kicking in and making noise at low speed only.

Good luck, I'd bring it back to the dealer and have them scope it out. Heck, you just spent a bunch of money w/ them and I'm hopeful they will straighten it out for you.
 

robotross

New member
Thanks for the suggestions, the dealership is going to take a look at it.

I also forgot to mention that something sounds like it's rubbing even when I don't have my foot on the break pedal. it's a faint metal on metal noise that clicks or whines a little each time the wheel goes around and speeds up in pace as I speed up. sometimes it's louder than others and sometimes if I press the brake pedal down hard while stopped it does not make the noise moving forward until I use the brakes again.

I realize this is all very enigmatic but I will be sure to follow up with solutions when i find them.
 

robotross

New member
UPDATE: Just got back from a short drive this morning in which the ABS light and the traction control light came on and stayed on. When I pulled over and shut off the engine and restarted it both lights were out and did not come on again.
 

robotross

New member
so the dealership said it was two blown speed sensors in the wheels that are part of the ABS system. I;m probably not going to have them replaced right away... no money left after that rear diff job
 

sikwan

06 T1N Can
so the dealership said it was two blown speed sensors in the wheels that are part of the ABS system. I;m probably not going to have them replaced right away... no money left after that rear diff job
:wtf:

I'd be suspicious on the sensor damages when the rear diff was worked on.
 

qkoop

New member
I just bought a 04 van with 170 000 miles and found a reciept in the glove box for a rear diff.$4600. from jasper transmissions.
 

Wileycoyote

New member
I had similar sounds coming from the rear end when switching from reverse to forwards and vice-versa. I found my u-bolts somehow had loosened up. I tightened them up and all was better.
 
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3

312 diesel (closed)

Guest
Surely it has to be easier and cheaper to source a used axle? I'd want a complete van for that kind of money:lol:
 

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