OM612 Fuel Filter Priming tool

[rjz5400]

I would trickle charge the battery before another session, a lot of folks leave them on charge if they are planning to crank it extended.

12.2 is low on the battery charge.


My mityvac came with a few little plunger or wedge type ones and one will fit in the voss hole. It doesn't take much, just get Most Of the air out so the fluid can get the pressure up. Act fast!! Read this thread you are commenting on, see the pictures. Good luck

 

[skigull]

i think I must have blown out the starter.

I used the method in this thread to pull in fuel to the pump and ensured that I sucked all the air out of the fuel pump (I waited till all the bubbles were gone), then put the Voss connector back in as quickly as I could and tried to start. I trickle charged the battery overnight as well, but it won’t even crank. Thanks for the help though.

I’m stuck in salt lake (traveling at the moment), so I think I’ll need to bite the bullet and get it towed to a shop unfortunately. Learned the hard way to prime the LP pump before cranking and cranking to try to get it started.

 

[rjz5400]

Does the starter try to spin at all? If not do check the fuses under the seat and behind the steering column cover to see if one blew during the extending cranking, also try tapping on the starter with a hammer or breaker bar, in case that frees it up.

Not sure if there is a relay for it on the om612 or not but def fuses!

 

[skigull]

I checked the fuses and they’re all good, but now when I turn the key into the 2nd position (just before the final one to crank) the dash lights flash—I think you might be right that it’s an electrical issue. I’ve had several electrical issues before and I wonder if this is another one. Last time it was a short in the wiring harness (attached photos). I wonder if there’s another wiring harness with a similar short.

I am going through this thread now: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/58993/

 

[rjz5400]

Wow that is terrible, good luck.

 

[skigull]

Just so others know, make sure you prime the Lp pump on the ‘02-‘03. I did not and had to go to a shop with my tail between my legs.

Note that the fuel filter light (available on the 02 and 03 models) popped on to signal the filter needed to be changed. It went into limp mode and i couldn’t shift out of second gear. The new fuel filter resolved the issue.

 

[newbie-t1n]

I'm a bit tardy to update. I successfully swapped out the fuel filter on my '03 using the "Baster" method. I used a clean, empty wood glue bottle to fill the filter through a short hose on the fuel tank side of the filter and then fitted the voss connection as timely as I could. It started fairly quickly (probably less than 15-20 seconds) and ran smoothly. After it was running, I noticed some air bubbles in the clear line, but I remembered that the engine (and fuel) have to be warm for the return valve to open and so I didn't get too concerned. It hasn't ever hesitated or not started since I changed my filter and so Im not checking for air bubles any more.

This info wouldn't be worth the post, but based on the advice of this thread, I ordered some o-rings from "the O-Ring Store" and I thought I'd report my measurements so that others could benefit from ordering from a generic source. What I ordered is listed first; my measurements follow.

• Voss Connector O-Ring: 2.5mm CS x 8mm ID (13mm OD). ID of fuel filter is 11.9-12mm, OD of groove on Voss connector is 8.15mm
• Water Sensor: 2.5mm CS x 16mm ID (21mm OD). ID of fuel filter is 20mm, OD of groove in sensor is 16.2mm, Thickness of groove on sensor is 3.2mm.
• Water Drain Plug: 1.78mm CS x 4.48mm ID. OD of groove on plug is 4.5mm. Thickness of groove on plug is 2.0-2.1 mm. OD of ring on plug is 7.2mm. I know what is ordered comes out to a larger OD (8.04mm). They were only $.05 with a minimum of 20 and it was the closest I could find in-stock at the time.

These three all worked without a leak for me.

 

[Lojack72]

Just changed my fuel filter at 292K miles, had been chasing an occasional stall & some diesel heater shutdowns that I realized started after a filter change in November. I also switched to the Hengst filter that doesn't use the WIF fitting, so you'll see the sensor in a ziptied freezer bag to the right. I'm religious about maintenance & always carry an extra filter, so not concerned about it. Absolutely no bubbles in the line now so clearly the lower fitting was letting some air in. It's also going to be easier to change in the future with only top fittings.

See the picture above, I attach my boat priming bulb to the hose from the tank (right side fitting, no clamp needed) & and pump fuel up into the filter inlet into it comes out the middle fitting. You can also see the one-way valve I have in place to ensure the fuel line doesn't drain back into the tank while disconnected. Disconnect the primer bulb, attach center fitting then right feed hose and it'll fire up within a few seconds of cranking. Yes, I know I need to replace my center Voss fitting as the ears have snapped off- but the hose clamp end keeps it in place for now.

 

[bcman]

I'm also a recent convert to the Hengst H70WK11 fuel filter (dubbed the "no leaks" filter by MMS). In 7 years of driving the van across multiple western states, I've never had the water-in-fuel light come on. I also keep a spare H216WK filter in the van. I haven't had problems of air introduced in the extra 3 holes in the H216WK filter, but just the tidyness of the filter change (i.e. not spilling diesel all over the subframe) is worth the extra cost to me.

 

[LouFLA]

The first time I changed the filter on my UK spec T1N with the OM611 engine which has an identical fuel system to the OM612 I was taught by an MB trained tech to fill the new filter with fresh diesel until it would take no more then swap them over. Every time I have done this since the engine starts right up without any hesitation.

Seems far simpler than jury rigging non return valves and bulb pumps!

Keith.

What is the best way to prime a new filter with fresh diesel?

 

[Cheyenne]

What is the best way to prime a new filter with fresh diesel?

Fill it with a jug before installing. And keep on filling it until it will take no more. You may spend over half an hour filling it so start before you pull the old one out.

If you install it dry it is nearly impossible to prime without risking burning out the starter motor or having to add a manual pump in the fuel lines.

 

[Chilco charlie]

my 2002 has been a nightmare and i would've sold it long ago if not for this forum.

i changed my fuel filter yesterday, pre-filled the fuel filter, bled the air out using the bleed valve, but when i cranked i could not get the engine to over. i tried cranking it for 15 secs or so, then took a break and repeated. i could not get it to start. now it barely cranks before it just clicks. im worried that i blew out my starter. is it possible that there was a leak and no fuel was getting to the engine? if so, would that cause a no crank issue, or is that directly related to the starter?

im new to working on cars and have never done any work prior to owning this van other than replacing the battery and refilling the washer fluid. sorry if this is a bad question but i appreciate the help.

Sounds like weak battery

 

[VentedRanger]

Dropping for fellow 02/03 owners

 

[mathiasprinter]

Go with Vanski’s method. I had bubbles in my fuel lines after changing fuel filter which I filled with diesel. I bought a siphon bulb and hose ($9 O’Reilly’s), a two foot length of 3/8” id fuel lines, and a hose clamp. Siphon bulb ‘in’ barb clamps inside line from tank, 3/8” fuel line is clamped to ‘out’ bulb barb, other end of fuel line slides over fuel ‘in’ nipple on filter. Disconnect Voss fitting at fuel pump out. Pump until fuel is not just coming out of fuel pump out, like Vanski does, but until the line is purged of bubbles. Messy, but effective. Leave bulb siphon attached, reconnect Voss fitting at fuel pump. Detach bulb siphon at tank ‘in’, elevating bulb in engine compartment. Hold supply line from tank near ‘in’ nipple on fuel filter, slide siphon fuel line off, then quickly slide supply line on. Yer primed, hoss!
I have never had to prime the line before, and my guess is the reason MB doesn’t say to prime the system or even fill the filter when replacing is that the low pressure, or ‘lift’ pump should be able to pull fuel from the tank through the fuel system. I think that if you have to prime the lines then your lift pump is failing or has failed. I’m going to check mine so I don’t destroy my (expensive) injector pump.

 

[Mastashake]

I'll throw this out there. Replaced my fuel filter today on my 06. My mind was clearly not right and I did not fill it with fuel before I installed it. Checked the lines and started up after about 4 seconds. Looking back I prob should have at least filled it but I lost very little fuel from the lines when I removed the old one so it seems whatever air was in the lines passed through and I avoided killing anything for now.

I did cycle the key on and off a few times to allow the LP pump to run.

At the risk of being laughed at, what is the danger in not priming the filter beyond stressing the pump?

 

[bcman]

Your '06 has the OM647 engine, which has a totally different fuel delivery system from the OM612 ('02-'03). There's an electric fuel pump in the fuel tank, so when you start it up it will push fuel into the filter.

Our LP pump is camshaft-driven and upstream of the filter, so if there's too much air in the filter, it will get sucked into the LP pump and then the pump can't do its thing properly.