Running lights staying on for hours after van is turned off

smitty1258

New member
My 08 2500 170" Rear Right running light (middle red light) and the front left running light(orange bulb) stay on for 2-3 hours after the van has been shut off.

I took it to a repair shop and they thought it might be the SAM Module? When I called another dealer for pricing on it they asked which one...

Hoping you guys can help me out with exactly which part I am looking to replace here.

Thanks!
 

Redpillar

Member
When I took my 2012 in to have the NOX sensors replaced, after they had programmed them in, and after they had washed the van ready to be picked up the heater fan would not shut off. The tech tried a few things but in the end found that the fan relay was all of a sudden faulty. We replaced it (165$) and it was good. It bothered me that the relay would coincidentally go bad when they had been doing whatever they do to program the NOX sensors in. I do have a code for my SAM module which I do not understand, and my dome light will only go on with the switch and not the door switch. I have heard that flashing the sam module could have fixed both problems. Whatever.. it sounds as if that may fix your problem as well..
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Although there can be (are?) a number of "body control modules", i think the only SAM is bolted on to the kick-area fuse block. Here's that the service doc says:

SAMloc.png

--dick
 

smitty1258

New member
so that entire thing needs replaced or it needs flashed?

How can I pinpoint on my own that is the part that is bad?
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
See the raised boxes on the K40/9 ? Those are relays (i don't know off-hand which does what).
When you're having your problem (key out, lights still on more that 2 minutes later), i would suggest tapping each relay separately (i.e. tap, then go check status of lights (having a helper helps)) in that hope that one of them is being sticky. The tap may cause a sticky relay to release, killing the lights.
Don't expect one pass through this test to be definitive, since a tap may shake an adjacent relay loose.
But it'll be "highly suggestive" (and, if the tapping does kill the lights, you'll have a good hint that it's a relay (i.e. cheap) at fault instead of the SAM (expensive)).

--dick
p.s. tapping is perhaps best done with the handle of a screwdriver.
 

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