Macerator Hose Pin Hole

[hoosierrun]

I assume you want to use the smallest diameter sheath so you can fit it all back in the wet bay. So I gotta ask, was it very hard to fish that limp noodle thru the sheath?

1 purchased the 1-1/4 inch size. When you compress the fabric it widens a bit. It did take a little time to feed the hose through the sheath because as it is stretched, it wants to grab (shrink). Once I got the hang of it (compressing it as I was installing it) the job went fairly quickly. You must cut any excess nylon fabric with a hot knife or an old junk knife that you heat up with a propane torch (my method). Once the fabric has melted on the knife, it is very tough to get it off. The ends are just attacked with a band clamp (I thing a zip tie pulled tight might work also).

 

[rver2be]

For the pin hole issue on the discharge hose, that is often caused by dragging a full hose across sharp gravel or even a rough concrete pad. Near the end of the dumping process, air and water spitting out can cause the hose to jump around causing more abrasion to this very thin corrugated hose. One solution is to fit on a flexible nylon sheath to protect the hose. Based on someone's recommendation, I did that and it has worked out very well. Here is a link to the product I bought on Amazon and some pictures of my installation below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EOYZNU4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hoosierrun,

I finally adopted your idea for the hose upgrade. That sleeving was a bear to snake over the hose, but I think it will be worth it. I was happy I did this, and used stainless clamps, especially after I removed the dump head, (cam right off) and found plumbers tape on threads, but it was just an accident waiting to happen. We've only been out a few times, but the last time I dumped I noticed fluid coming out around the connection at the head. I also adopted Tanny's idea to use the heavy duty hose and 90 degree elbows. Hopefully this reliability upgrade will be worth it. Now I'd like to replace the white plastic feedthrough and re-work it.

 

[SVidas]

hoosierrun,

I finally adopted your idea for the hose upgrade. That sleeving was a bear to snake over the hose, but I think it will be worth it. I was happy I did this, and used stainless clamps, especially after I removed the dump head, (cam right off) and found plumbers tape on threads, but it was just an accident waiting to happen. We've only been out a few times, but the last time I dumped I noticed fluid coming out around the connection at the head. I also adopted Tanny's idea to use the heavy duty hose and 90 degree elbows. Hopefully this reliability upgrade will be worth it. Now I'd like to replace the white plastic feedthrough and re-work it.

The stock Sanicon hose is 7 feet long but stretches to about 21 feet. When you put the sleeve over the hose does it force the hose to stay in the more extended length or can it compress back to its roughly 7 foot length?

 

[hoosierrun]

The stock Sanicon hose is 7 feet long but stretches to about 21 feet. When you put the sleeve over the hose does it force the hose to stay in the more extended length or can it compress back to its roughly 7 foot length?

It compresses back to near the original size, but when done, the covering is loose and not firm around the hose. It still works OK for those small storage compartments, whereas a thicker hose would not fit. I haven't taken any exact measurements, but I suspect that it will stretch it out to about 18 to 19 feet. Even before the covering was on there I never took it out to 21 feet for fear of putting too much stress on the hose. So far this has worked good for me and I am 2 years into it with the original hose.

 

[LUNITY]

Just as I view slides as a problem waiting to happen, I‘ve seen nothing to convince my that I made the wrong decision by staying with the gravity waste drain system on current rig and new one coming in June (?? I hope)

I’ve been using gravity dump on various rv’s since 2003 and have NEVER had anything even close to resembling a POO GEYSER. I often spend more time waiting in line for the dump station to clear than I do actually draining the tanks.

If I had a home dump sewer access that ran uphill, I’d consider it but I’ve never drained at home; always found plenty of places on the road and at my storage yard. Never been an issue for me. I consider the exterior macerator to be a solution looking for a problem.

 

[msmolow]

Last year I replaced my macerator preemptively when I didn't like the sound it was making. 20 minutes with no mess to swap out the unit. I did upgrade to a higher amperage model for a higher flow rate which entailed a larger fuse, moving to a different fuse location in the panel and a higher rated switch in the wet bay, but all that was not difficult. If you stay with the original model the swap out itself is quick. Have a bucket to catch the effluent as you disconnect the bayonet fitting. A strap wrench makes removing the LTV bayonet adapter to reuse on the replacement easy.

This is my first RV so I can't compare, but I have been very satisfied. I check the clarity of the effluent by simply lifting the head out of the sewer while it's pumping. Not messy at all. I no longer wear gloves, although I do wash my hands afterwards. I also confess to leaving the cap on the first time I used it, even after reading repeated warnings. I'm a little slow on the uptake. Fortunately, I caught it before the explosion and was able to direct the pent up pressure when I removed the cap.

I did develop pin holes in the hose, duct tape got me thru the emergency. When I replaced the hose I covered it with a braided polyester sleeve.

 

[rver2be]

Last year I replaced my macerator preemptively when I didn't like the sound it was making. 20 minutes with no mess to swap out the unit. I did upgrade to a higher amperage model for a higher flow rate which entailed a larger fuse, moving to a different fuse location in the panel and a higher rated switch in the wet bay, but all that was not difficult. If you stay with the original model the swap out itself is quick. Have a bucket to catch the effluent as you disconnect the bayonet fitting. A strap wrench makes removing the LTV bayonet adapter to reuse on the replacement easy.

This is my first RV so I can't compare, but I have been very satisfied. I check the clarity of the effluent by simply lifting the head out of the sewer while it's pumping. Not messy at all. I no longer wear gloves, although I do wash my hands afterwards. I also confess to leaving the cap on the first time I used it, even after reading repeated warnings. I'm a little slow on the uptake. Fortunately, I caught it before the explosion and was able to direct the pent up pressure when I removed the cap.

I did develop pin holes in the hose, duct tape got me thru the emergency. When I replaced the hose I covered it with a braided polyester sleeve.

I also added the sleeving, I am glad. I also used stainless hose clamps, and no issues so far. I also check the discharge during dumping; was concerned during winterizing in December that I could get it clear. Takes lots of flushing.

 

[geds]

I wrapped the friction points with a few rounds of Duct tape and have had no problems. I see no reason to remove the hose to apply a sleeve - Duct tape preemptively works just fine and is a whole lot easier!