Serpentine belt

What Next

New member
Anyone happen to know the correct # for the drive (serpentine belt). I have a 05 LTV I guess a late 04 chassis. I want to carry a spare, I gave my dealer the vin and he had a choice of two. I don't want to be in the middle of nowhere and find out I have the wrong one. Where can I find a diagram of how it is routed around the pulleys.
 

sikwan

06 T1N Can
I forgot to mention. You can always remove it, measure the length, and compare it to what the dealer has. It's easy to remove.

Also with the length in hand, you can go the aftermarket route. They probably have better choices at a more reasonable price.

gatopoly_g2.gif
I like the Goodyear Gatorbacks.

Here's what Goodyear says about them. It's all marketing speak, but I still like the cross-cut design on the ribs for flexible bending and have used it in one of my vehicles.

RUGGED FEATURES

1. Strong, Stretch-Resistant Tension Member.

Specially treated to maintain tension and resist stretch on both locked center drives and spring tension systems.

2. Tough Synthetic Rubber Ribs.

Fiber-reinforced Wingprenereg. rubber helical cogged ribs offer maximum cord support and wear resistance for unsurpassed performance in high horsepower applications.

3. Oil And Abrasion- Resistant Backing.

The backing on every Goodyear Gatorback Poly-V belt is a tough coated fabric material. It's impregnated with Wingprenereg. rubber for heat and oil resistance to provide the high coefficient of friction needed to drive flat pulleys.
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
The service manual routing picture leaves little to be desired, but here it is. This is the one I found for the '05.
QUOTE]


They may have said it was for the '05, but the picture is clearly of an OM612, phased out in '03.
 

What Next

New member
Well thanks guys , I guess I will draw up my own diagram figure out how the tensioner works and get an after market belt. I better know how to get it on and off anyway. Thanks to hk I have removed the fuel filter and always have a spare with me.
 

Atlee

New member
[ QUOTE]
They may have said it was for the '05, but the picture is clearly of an OM612, phased out in '03.[/QUOTE]


Question. What is the main difference between the OM612 engine and the next engine used?
 

sikwan

06 T1N Can
Well thanks guys , I guess I will draw up my own diagram figure out how the tensioner works and get an after market belt. I better know how to get it on and off anyway. Thanks to hk I have removed the fuel filter and always have a spare with me.
You can try...

http://www.europarts-sd.com/

...and download their price list in pdf format. According to them, OEM is ContiTech and...

MB p/n: 014 997 06 92
Dodge p/n: 5103564AA
2002 - 2003 serpentine with A/C.

MB p/n: 008 997 70 92
Dodge p/n: 5132825AA
2004 - 2006 serpentine with A/C.

Seek
 

InnoVAN

New member
My Serpentine went last Saturday at a most inopportune yet convenient time. How do you say? Well, I was working, checking water jugs for cool water while the last groups were playing at the US Disc Golf Championships. I was on hole 15 when it just started making some awful screech noises. I popped the hood to find parts of serpentine belt had made their way all over. It also threw the rear AC belt, which was in need of replacing.

I walked over to another staff person who's husband is "handy", and we headed to the auto parts stores. Within 45 minutes we were back with BOTH belts, total cost, about $50, but could have bee just over 30 if they had a less expensive serpentine (it cost $43).

Well, with no diagrams, we had a time figuring out routing. We finally gave up and found a friend who has a Navion RV, who owed me as it stayed at my house the week before, popped the hood and figured out the layout.

Hardest part was actually getting the serpentine on, we had (the tool kit, and, a pry bar). After much defeat, a spectator walked up and using the prybar, forced the tension pulley over so we could seat the belt. A couple quick turns of the key and it was all set. The AC belt was rather hard to get on, again, with no tools but a screwdriver. We got it on though.

OK, while doing that, we noticed a massive amount of gunk in the air intake. What are you guys using to clean all the soot out of there??? I wish to get this thing a little cleaner, and hopefully get the engine to pep up a little, perhaps increase my mileage if possible.

At 135,000 and only owning it for 10,000 of that, what are the best things to do to improve/ensure better gas mileage? I am currently getting about 20, but it seems like I should be getting better.
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
I would like to add a little helpful input on the belt, Yes broken in the middle of nowhere, does not help! so with a little help from your friend's, and strangers walking by! may create another problem, in the short term. Forcing the belt on may stretch it , so it is not tensioned as per specs, there is a chance you may damage, the run on the belt itself, either by nicking the grove of the pattern or damaging the side of the belt this is the weakest part of the belt , possible damage by burring the pulley itself may reflect on premature wear as well, In the main manual , it states some where in it,,, to check tension and keep the surface of the pulley clean from contamination that may damage or inevitably cause premature wear, I admit it does not say how to kleen them there are sprays such as CSR belt and pulley cleaners,I have a can of this stuff some where down in the work shop, If I can find it I'll post the info it may help with cleaning off the soot and dirt that gets into these sections.
Richard
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
Just a small tip with maintaining the Serpentine belt
If you use a product such as CRC or similar! look at the data on the back of the can for assistance.
This will help to maintain and preserve belts etc
RE-POWER BELTS INSTANTLY...
CRC BELT GRIP revives old belts and removes residue built up caused by continuous running.
CRC BELT GRIP creates a non-slip surface that will not attract dust and dirt. It remains pliable and will not glaze or harden.​
Applications
Suitable for equipment located both inside and outside.
CRS BELT GRIP is resistant to water and will work equally well to correct belt slippage due to moisture, heat or cold,Non- staining formula can be used on flat, round or V belts...rubber, leather or fabric materials.​
Directions
1. De-energize and use lock out isolation device before use.
This means degrease the engine section for a clean surface
not much point in spraying onto a dirty surface.
2. Spray all gripping surfaces.. try to minimize over spray onto electrical wiring.
directional spray will provide easy access for hard-to reach flat belt drive surfaces..{ use a stick in tube on the spray nozzle for direct spray.}
4. Retain non-slip surface by regular re-application.
Warning: Stand clear of moving belts.
Do not spray on moving belts.
Restoration of pulling Power could cause worn belts to break....Use with care in a well ventilated area.
Positive reaction to maintaining belts,,,this product or as similar will help to avoid friction and or seizing belts after standing overnight where excessive residue may have a seining effect upon start with that old familiar sound of squeaking on the pulley:shifty: untill it warms up.
Note: this is a preventative solution to premature failure as an assit towards possible belt failure.​
Richard
DSC01193 (Large).JPG
 

santoman

New member
my first post so bear with me--i have tried to change my belt but can't get it off--i tried a torx 30 it seems to small--the 40 is to big--is there a tool out there that will do the job and make it alittle easier or do i just have to wrestle it around? thanks dave
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
my first post so bear with me--i have tried to change my belt but can't get it off--i tried a torx 30 it seems to small--the 40 is to big--is there a tool out there that will do the job and make it alittle easier or do i just have to wrestle it around? thanks dave
The multi-V belt tensioner on the 5 cyl. engine has a torx T60 female socket that accepts a male T60 torx bit and right beside that a male 17mm 12 point that accepts a 17mm 12 point socket.

You can use either one to rotate the tensioner, relieve spring tension, and then install/remove the belt. Doktor A
 
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AzteK

Blah Blah Blibbidy Blah!
Any job is a 12 pack job to a case! It gives us the chance to make sure we go slow and do it right the first time. And of course to rehydrate ourselves! :smilewink:
 
I just replaced this 10 minutes ago. Our 06' has 80k miles, and I haven't changed the belt since I got it at 42k. Twas time.

My advice: Remove the Boost Hose from the intake and swing it out of the way (I had changed this yesterday). You probably don't "have" to do this, but it makes it WAY easier and more accessible.

Then get the belt seated on the lower part of the routing, and around the A/C Compressor, leaving only the Power Steering Pump Un-belted. Put the ratchet on the Belt Tensioner FROM THE TOP (handle up, I had to put mine on from below to easily get it on the 12pt male fitting).

Then crawl back up, you will be able to un-tension the belt using the ratchet with one hand, while slipping the belt over the PS Pump with the other, from topside. I tried it from below doing the alternator as my last loop, but that just wasted 30 min of my time and I re-learned a bunch of expletives. :censored: And that was WITH a helper. From topside I was able to do it by myself.

Topside, topside, topside.

Brakes are next, in the next 2-3 weeks.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
not with mine. The new belt was folded over many times, and these micro bends made it "too short" to work that way (I tried it). I needed every mm of tensioner slack. Pinning the Tensioner removed enough there was NO WAY to get the belt on.
 

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