abs problems + others ?


New member
hi guys , ive had a good few days searching on this site for the problems with my 2000 313 UK sprinter
so if anyone can direct me to somthing ive missed ...?
the problem is ABS light ,wheel speed sensor light, and EBV light
EBV i am not too worried about , as i can knock it out with the diagnostic tool i have access to , and it seems to stay off
but thought id better mention it .
the lights were on previous to a full service renewal of all brake components , disks and pads

the main problem is ABS light and wheel speed sensor light ,the diagnostic 1st came up with the brake stop switch ,so i replaced it as advised from this forum
i thought id cracked it ,for 5 minuites all looked well , untill i went for a drive and was pulling of my drive and they both came back on
another plug into the diagnostic revealed a left side speed sensor , which i replaced , and again 5 minuites it was fine stood still , 1 minuites driving (over 5mph of the drive ) both back on ...
its a headscratcher for me , as i have spent a good few days on it now

with the diagnostic i occasionally get the message ... End Of Line Test Defective , amongst the others

the van drives and performs perfect, its just the MOT is up , and i need to get this sorted

heres hoping :thumbup:


06 T1N Can
Does the sensor ring on the wheel run true to the sensor? What's the condition of the sensor ring; clean?

How far back, after replacing the sensor, to the ABS module did you inspect the wiring?


New member

the van was left overnight , i plugged it back into the diagnostic and cleared the memory
went for a drive , and the lights stayed of :smilewink: , parked it back up , booked the MOT ,got through the MOT ... on the way back the lights came back on :rant: and wont stay of this time

and i aint doing no exercises for no bloody van ...

ah well , im not going through that again next year , merc sprinter for sale :D:
Last edited:


New member
not silly at all, when checked brake bulb was a single instead of a double :thumbup:
replaced and still the same fault although the whole rear light unit is still questionable , due to a small fault with a connection , its as though theres a bad earth , but a quick mess with the board and all is fine, looks like a replacement is on the cards , just to rule out

as said ive spent a few days and many hours on this , all input is greatfully received and im thankfull of it

as for the situps ... ive done10 today and i can tell you their not easy when you have a beer belly

but , 10 more tommorrow , may just solve my problem :popcorn:


New member
I have a similar problem, the three warning lights on and have to use a pen to release shifter lockup to drive.
I think the brake circuit track you guys are on may be the key.....I was working on a trailer light hookup by taping the correct wires...and of course one cannot draw more power for the trailer than designed. And I wanted to have ability to tie into 4 or 7 wire connectors. Because of the independent light circuits, I crafted and developed a set of relays that would simply isolate the signals from the oem light circuits, and allow me to take an independent 12 source and use relays to switch that for the trailer. But it seems that even the current pulled by the relay coils violates the tolerance of the lamp current that the 'main brain' allows.
I may have to go to opto isolators that use LEDs and take very little current. Meanwhile, I still have the dash lights lit and shifter locked. Any thoughts how to clear.

I did reset the brake switch at pedal by pulling it out.
I did check fuses.

The rear lamp holders have a stamped metal grid mounted to the plastic frame. It has a complex series of galvanized bars acting like a circuit board without the board. They run power and ground to the bulb sockets. Fairly hard to read the paths, but it looks like the circuit can be modified for different markets by cutting jumpers and such. There is no 'electronic circuit' as mentioned in a different thread.

I am sure a Dodge dealer, if I could find one that 'does Sprinters', would NOT be able to solve this for less than $500. (Who killed the Diesel Sprinter??)

Dale in Aptos CA still in a jam too


>2,000,000m in MB vans
ah well , im not going through that again next year , merc sprinter for sale :D:
Whereabouts are you?

There are some red hot independent Merc commercial specialists around the UK, just wondering if I know of one near you?

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Not that you asked, but it seems you are re-inventing the wheel with your relays and such. Modulite makes isolator units available from etrailer.com that work with my 2004 2500.


They also have two in one connectors for 7 and 4 wire.


You would need to add a brake controller and dedicated 12 volt source from the battery, but it's all available.

Wiring I found on my 2004:
Tail/Park: L = Gray/Blk, R = Gray/Red
Stop: L = Red/Blk, R = Blk/Red
Backup: L = Wht/Red, R = Wht/Red
Turn: L = Blk/Wht, R = Blk/Grn

Lamps I use on my 2004 tail lights:
Top Lamp = Brake/Tail = 1157LL 12V 21W/5W)
2nd down = Backup = 1156LL (12V 21W)
3rd Down = Turn = 1156LL (12V 21W)
Bottom Lamp = Tail = 5007LL (12V 5W)

Sorry if I'm giving you info you already know and are just looking to do your own thing. Hope this helps.

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