You're saying its more work to change a compressor clutch than doing a complete rehab on the A/C system?Actually, the FIRST thing to check is if the compressor is coming on (because it's free, fast and everyone can DIY).
When you turn the AC on, while the engine is running, and then go look at the serpentine belt going around the AC pully (bottom pulley on drivers side), the part to the Radiator side should be spinning. If it's not, then the AC clutch is either bad or not getting signal to turn on. My clutch went bad (this item Can be replaced on its own, but it's honestly more work than draining the coolant, changing the compressor/related parts and refilling ~ probably more expensive if you're paying someone to do the work too), which was caused by a failing compressor body that was dragging. Same exact symptoms you've mentioned.
Anyway, there's no reason to think the coolant charge level is low if the AC stopped working suddenly.
Are you a DIYer or needing a shop to do the work?
OK, the part came 3 days early and it works great!! I got the used A/C Heater Control Unit from an Ebay seller and it did the job for a fraction of the price from the dealer or buying new.We all! It looks like the heater a/c controller is bad. I have one coming and will let you know what the outcome is.
Have an awesome weekend.
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DIY A/C repairs can be expensive in the mistakes fraught with problems arena and in any case the T1N van is touchy on charge amounts! So winging it with a can of A/C mix "Yum Yum might get you into more trouble than you would wish for.
One of these days someone is going to legislate that sales of A/C products to non licensed A/C people is a bad idea for you types trying to be a YouTube grad . So for those of you "trying" this type of repair and venting refrigerant to atmosphere carry on and don't panic !--BUT wear safety glasses and a work glove!
Dennis .
EPA Licensed A/C mechanic
There you are and that wan't too difficult or financially painful was it!These guys did a great job. They pumped the system down to see what it had for a charge and then recharged it. It had 1.4 lbs when it called for 1.9 lbs. I have had the van for about 4-5 years now and never had anything done to the a/c. They leak checked it and said that it looked like the van had never had any a/c service done. No leaks that they could see. If it has one, it has to be small to go down .5 lbs in 12 years. I'm good with that.
Thank you all for the great feedback. I love this forum.
You have hit the nail on the head as to measurement of actual refrigerant in the can if you buy it from an auto parts store as a non licensed A/C Youtube graduate !It is actually possible to get within about 2% of a weighted charge using a calibrated table and temperature probes. Using 2 temperature probes, and a gauge set you can measure the temperature drop of the refrigerant across the condenser, and determine superheat, overcool, and then add refrigerant as needed. Now what often will get you, is if there is non-condensable gasses in the mix. Even 5% total mass of air will totally mess the system up, as it will accumulate in the condenser...
Much easier to just evacuate and measure the charge (at least on a car). On industrial refrigeration equipment (which can have hundreds of lbs of refrigerant), adjusting a charge is often the most expedient approach. Of course those systems often have more extensive documentation than the average car...
On the newest generation of automotive AC systems the variable displacement compressors make it a bit more complicated, especially with the computer control algorithms fiddling with everything.