I have removed my sliding door electric step to replace my defective def heater located above it. While I had it removed I took the step apart and cleaned it up, lubricated and greased some areas. I was having intermittent operation at times when the step didn't report it was retracted and buzzed. Slamming the door would stop the Buzzing.
I metered out the wiring so I could power it up and cycle it on my bench to be sure the magnetic switches are adjusted properly. Thank you (ptheland) for your drawing. I urge everyone to stop here until you have a complete understanding before jumping connections. It is a simple operation but a little more complicated than just shorting wires to disable.
The (ptheland) diagram showed the (RedWire) is Ground and that is maybe correct. More importantly the (RedWIRE) is common to all the sensors. (BlueWire) is (EXTENDED), (VioletWire) is (RETRACTED), (GreenWire) is (PINCH)as (ptheland) described.
As everyone expects if the step ran into a pinch hazard, the (RedWire) is shorted to the (GreenWire). In a normal state the (GreenWire) is not connected to anything and like floats in the air. The (ptheland) diagram shows a 510 ohm across the (RedWire) and (GreenWire) continuously. I would expect that too as it would provide a supervisory signal. In my step however I measure an open circuit unpinched.
The pinch sensor reports a pinch by shorting the (RedWire) with the (GreenWire). The opposite occurs with the position sensors. They report completely in or out by opening one connection.
Remembering the (RedWIRE) is common to all the sensors. This is important. The (BlueWIRE) and (VioletWIRE) are both connected to the (RedWIRE) when the step is in neither state. Meaning not (EXTENDED) or (RETRACTED). In other words if your step is neither in or out like when changing positions or just stuck, the (RedWIRE) is shorted to both the (BLUE AND VIOLET WIRE).
When the step is physically stopped and completely retracted, the (RedWIRE) remains shorted to the (VioletWIRE) but is opened and no longer connected to the (BlueWIRE).
Likewise if the step is stopped and completely extended, the (RedWIRE) remains shorted to (BlueWire) but is opened and no longer connected to the (VioletWire).
Extended reports a fully extended step by opening the connection between the (RedWire) and (VioletWire). Retracted reports a fully retracted step by opening the connection between the (RedWire) and (BlueWire). Both closed or both open means unhappy buzzer sounds or indicator light
Based on the sensors input to the parametric module it puts a negative 12vdc on the (BlackWire) and a positive 12vdc on the (WhiteWire) to drive the motor to retract the step. Likewise it flips and puts a positive 12vdc on the (BlackWire) and a negative 12vdc on the (WhiteWire) to drive the motor to extend the step. Once extended or retracted the module removes the voltage so there no power present on the (Black or White Wire). The motor in the step does not stop itself. There is no electronics in the step. The motor will run as long as power is present on the (Black and White Wire). Switching polarity drives in or out. Applying continuous power will hopefully blow a fuse before being allowed to burn the motor out.
Because power is not present when the step is fully in or out, one latching relay and possibly 4 diode’s would be required to fake the module out if you wish to remove the step without a program change. About $15 on ebay. I can provide you a drawing if interested.
This FORUM has been a great help to me and I wanted to give back something. Hope this helps.