Removing the electric step

SSMaui

Fleet Chief
If you unplug the PSM (Parametizable Special Module) under the driver's seat you won't get any alarms or lights. It is what controls the electric step. Once a driver breaks one of these ridiculous things we remove it and then unplug the module. We ain't spending $1000 for a new one...
 
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PACKVAN

New member
I am about to try this, using your instructions… so thanks in advance!

Only question I have is about the jumper for this certain connector , what does that look like and where can I get it one... thanks
 

ptheland

2013 144" low top Passgr
Only question I have is about the jumper for this certain connector , what does that look like and where can I get it one... thanks
I used a paper clip. Cut it down to size, bent to fit in the holes. A short piece of wire would work as well. I'd probably strip the ends, then use solder to stiffen them up to push into the holes in the connector.

Either way, wrap the whole thing securely in electric tape and tuck the connector up out of the way and the weather.
 

camillo

New member
I have the factory electric step on my 2016 3500. It has a mere 6000 miles on it and has never seen gravel or mud... but i have to wind up and slam the sliding door extremely hard for the step to close. WTF?!
The local MB service department says I would need to find out which up fitter put the step on and go to them to have it removed. (WTF?!) But, they also said that they can go into the vehicle's computer system and remove the code which would disable the step as if there was no step, and that it would take less than an hour. Does that sound right (or wrong) to anyone? I think I'd cough up the $150 for the hour if it was that easy and then pull the damn thing out myself because I'm thinking the step will only be a headache going forward even it was "fixed." I like the look of nerf bars/rocker bars any way.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Camillo,

Was it a factory fit step or added by an upfitter?

If factory fitted (ie included on your build sheet or data card) then they should fix it for free under your warranty.

Keith.
 

PACKVAN

New member
If you unplug the PSM (Parametizable Special Module) under the driver's seat you won't get any alarms or lights. It is what controls the electric step. Once a driver breaks one of these ridiculous things we remove it and then unplug the module. We ain't spending $1000 for a new one...
Hi, any tips on how to remove or unplug the PSM it’s pretty tight in there
 

PACKVAN

New member
I used a paper clip. Cut it down to size, bent to fit in the holes. A short piece of wire would work as well. I'd probably strip the ends, then use solder to stiffen them up to push into the holes in the connector.

Either way, wrap the whole thing securely in electric tape and tuck the connector up out of the way and the weather.
Thanks!

in your write up I could not find what hole or “holes” you put the jumper in. Your explanation of each wire has been really helpful but I am not sure hole on the connector the jumper goes in.

I am also consider removing the PSM like some others have suggest but I cant figure out how to unplug it. I am also worried that it controls more than just the step and I would be messing more things up...
 

PACKVAN

New member
UPDATE

Using this threads helpful information I was able to to remove the step and get one of the alarms off by using the paper clip jumper solution.

Thanks!

I still have a dumb beeping every time we open the door for two minutes.

I figured out that if you put the key in and turn the key to the right, then back to the left and out, it stops.

Has Anybody else figured out a way?

Thanks for the help everyone:)
 

sprint-err

New member
I have also removed my OEM electric step and was presented with the buzzers and dash warnings.

I tried the 2 different jumpers suggested by ptheland and was not happy with either one (you either have to put up with the sliding door open buzzer or the dash lights and beeping...).

Next I unplugged my PSM. This also does not yield a complete result. The sliding door buzzer and the dash beeping are gone, but there is still a red warning about the step on the dash when you first turn on the van (image attached). But there is no beeping of any kind, and the red warning goes away after you start up the van and get on the road. I'm sticking with this "fix" for the time being as it is the least annoying.

I think the only way to shut this whole thing down may be to take it to the dealer to have the step deleted from the van's computer. Or maybe try to wire up ptheland's circuit with the relays to simulate the step.

Anyone have any other bright ideas?

BTW, the PSM is easy to unplug, once you pull it out of the rail that is holding it:

1. Pull the driver's seat all the way forward and lift the foam cover under there. Locate the PSM under the driver's seat. It's a black box slightly larger than a pack of cards and is on the first raised rail all the way to the left of the rail.

2. There are 2 tabs on either side of the PSM that you have to push away from you (if you are facing the back of the driver's seat). These are best released with a small screwdriver as the space is tight for getting your fingers in there.

3. Simultaneously push the 2 tabs and pull up on the PSM and it should pull straight up and out.

4. You can now more easily unplug it by pushing the locking tabs on the 2 connectors and pulling the connectors out.
 

Attachments

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Dbiker

New member
I have also removed my OEM electric step and was presented with the buzzers and dash warnings.

I tried the 2 different jumpers suggested by ptheland and was not happy with either one (you either have to put up with the sliding door open buzzer or the dash lights and beeping...).

Next I unplugged my PSM. This also does not yield a complete result. The sliding door buzzer and the dash beeping are gone, but there is still a red warning about the step on the dash when you first turn on the van (image attached). But there is no beeping of any kind, and the red warning goes away after you start up the van and get on the road. I'm sticking with this "fix" for the time being as it is the least annoying.

I think the only way to shut this whole thing down may be to take it to the dealer to have the step deleted from the van's computer. Or maybe try to wire up ptheland's circuit with the relays to simulate the step.

Anyone have any other bright ideas?

BTW, the PSM is easy to unplug, once you pull it out of the rail that is holding it:

1. Pull the driver's seat all the way forward and lift the foam cover under there. Locate the PSM under the driver's seat. It's a black box slightly larger than a pack of cards and is on the first raised rail all the way to the left of the rail.

2. There are 2 tabs on either side of the PSM that you have to push away from you (if you are facing the back of the driver's seat). These are best released with a small screwdriver as the space is tight for getting your fingers in there.

3. Simultaneously push the 2 tabs and pull up on the PSM and it should pull straight up and out.

4. You can now more easily unplug it by pushing the locking tabs on the 2 connectors and pulling the connectors out.
Hello,

Did removing the PSM have any negative effect on other functions of the van? I'm concerned that removing it would disrupt other systems within the van.

Thanks,
D
 

sprint-err

New member
Hi Dbiker,

No, there were no effects on my van's other systems. As I understand it, the PSM is intended to be used by third party body builders and RV conversion places when they're adding functionality to the van. The factory installed electric step is one of the few items that is controlled by the PSM from the factory. So if your van isn't a conversion, unplugging the PSM shouldn't affect anything. And if you do notice something not working, the PSM is very easy to plug back in and you'll get all of the functionality restored if it was being controlled from the PSM.

Hope that helps!
 

Darcy Quapp

New member
Ok so I removed my step .... pulled the module under the seat and jumpered the blue and brown wires . All good except for the red warning on the dash....
 

RPacher1

New member
Hi all and thanks for the wealth of info that available here, first post.

I have a hi-top 144 passenger 4X4 with the electric step that I would like to remove. I also have the roof-top factory AC and fuel fired booster heater. I fear these may integrate with the PSM thus I'm fearful of unplugging it to quiet down the noise and lights. Any advise?
 

tcspence

New member
I have removed my sliding door electric step to replace my defective def heater located above it. While I had it removed I took the step apart and cleaned it up, lubricated and greased some areas. I was having intermittent operation at times when the step didn't report it was retracted and buzzed. Slamming the door would stop the Buzzing.

I metered out the wiring so I could power it up and cycle it on my bench to be sure the magnetic switches are adjusted properly. Thank you (ptheland) for your drawing. I urge everyone to stop here until you have a complete understanding before jumping connections. It is a simple operation but a little more complicated than just shorting wires to disable.

The (ptheland) diagram showed the (RedWire) is Ground and that is maybe correct. More importantly the (RedWIRE) is common to all the sensors. (BlueWire) is (EXTENDED), (VioletWire) is (RETRACTED), (GreenWire) is (PINCH)as (ptheland) described.

As everyone expects if the step ran into a pinch hazard, the (RedWire) is shorted to the (GreenWire). In a normal state the (GreenWire) is not connected to anything and like floats in the air. The (ptheland) diagram shows a 510 ohm across the (RedWire) and (GreenWire) continuously. I would expect that too as it would provide a supervisory signal. In my step however I measure an open circuit unpinched.

The pinch sensor reports a pinch by shorting the (RedWire) with the (GreenWire). The opposite occurs with the position sensors. They report completely in or out by opening one connection.

Remembering the (RedWIRE) is common to all the sensors. This is important. The (BlueWIRE) and (VioletWIRE) are both connected to the (RedWIRE) when the step is in neither state. Meaning not (EXTENDED) or (RETRACTED). In other words if your step is neither in or out like when changing positions or just stuck, the (RedWIRE) is shorted to both the (BLUE AND VIOLET WIRE).

When the step is physically stopped and completely retracted, the (RedWIRE) remains shorted to the (VioletWIRE) but is opened and no longer connected to the (BlueWIRE).

Likewise if the step is stopped and completely extended, the (RedWIRE) remains shorted to (BlueWire) but is opened and no longer connected to the (VioletWire).

Extended reports a fully extended step by opening the connection between the (RedWire) and (VioletWire). Retracted reports a fully retracted step by opening the connection between the (RedWire) and (BlueWire). Both closed or both open means unhappy buzzer sounds or indicator light

Based on the sensors input to the parametric module it puts a negative 12vdc on the (BlackWire) and a positive 12vdc on the (WhiteWire) to drive the motor to retract the step. Likewise it flips and puts a positive 12vdc on the (BlackWire) and a negative 12vdc on the (WhiteWire) to drive the motor to extend the step. Once extended or retracted the module removes the voltage so there no power present on the (Black or White Wire). The motor in the step does not stop itself. There is no electronics in the step. The motor will run as long as power is present on the (Black and White Wire). Switching polarity drives in or out. Applying continuous power will hopefully blow a fuse before being allowed to burn the motor out.

Because power is not present when the step is fully in or out, one latching relay and possibly 4 diode’s would be required to fake the module out if you wish to remove the step without a program change. About $15 on ebay. I can provide you a drawing if interested.

This FORUM has been a great help to me and I wanted to give back something. Hope this helps.
 

ptheland

2013 144" low top Passgr
Because power is not present when the step is fully in or out, one latching relay and possibly 4 diode’s would be required to fake the module out if you wish to remove the step without a program change. About $15 on ebay. I can provide you a drawing if interested.
I'd be interested in seeing the diagram. I still haven't tried my 3 relay solution. I have pretty much tuned out the 2 minutes of beeping when the door is open. Pulling the two fuses I mentioned above reduced the volume significantly and that was good enough for me.
 

cthorins

New member
Because power is not present when the step is fully in or out, one latching relay and possibly 4 diode’s would be required to fake the module out if you wish to remove the step without a program change. About $15 on ebay. I can provide you a drawing if interested.

This FORUM has been a great help to me and I wanted to give back something. Hope this helps.
[/QUOTE]

I would also be interested in the diagram/part list. The company I work for has two vans that we would like to do this to.
 

FullyTorqued

New member
Has anybody replaced the factory step with an Amp Research step? Were you able to use any of the existing wiring to keep the PSM and warning buzzers?
 

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