E-track Rear Deck Bed Support

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
I needed a raised bed for my 2006 Freightliner 2500HC 140 passenger. I contemplated removing the plastic trim under the rear windows to install the supports, but decided against it. My decision was to install E-track right over the plastic trim.
Hi Vic,
Would it be easy to mount the horizontal E-Track to vertical L-Tracks so height could be adjusted?
Is the E-Track rigid enough to only be mounted at two or three points on an 8-foot span?

Thanks!
 

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
Hi Vic,
Would it be easy to mount the horizontal E-Track to vertical L-Tracks so height could be adjusted?
Is the E-Track rigid enough to only be mounted at two or three points on an 8-foot span?

Thanks!
Bump... anyone?
 

220629

Well-known member
Hi Vic,
Would it be easy to mount the horizontal E-Track to vertical L-Tracks so height could be adjusted?
Is the E-Track rigid enough to only be mounted at two or three points on an 8-foot span?

Thanks!
Bump... anyone?
My apologies. I missed this.

In my opinion the E-track could work as a bed support with fasteners at only 3 points over 8 feet. That said, the E-track would need to be used only as a bed support.

The shape/design of the E-track is such that the downward forces of the bed loads should be fine. The E-track installed with only 3 points over 8 feet would not be strong enough for other load securements.

As to using vertical L-track in conjunction with E-track, keep in mind that the span in the Sprinter reduces as you approach the ceiling. That needs to be considered in any multi level position bed design.

vic
 

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
As to using vertical L-track in conjunction with E-track, keep in mind that the span in the Sprinter reduces as you approach the ceiling. That needs to be considered in any multi level position bed design.
Thanks Vic,
So, 3 vertical L-Tracks on each side of the rear of the van, with the E-track spanning across all three...
I'd have to curve the L-track a bit; I think Adventure Wagon's video describes how to do that. And I'll probably use Ikea bed rails, so they can contract and expand for different heights and possible flex.

How to bolt/fasten the E-track to the L-track? The rectangular holes in the E-track don't seem well-shaped for bolts or L-brackets.

Thanks!
 

220629

Well-known member
...

How to bolt/fasten the E-track to the L-track? The rectangular holes in the E-track don't seem well-shaped for bolts or L-brackets.

Thanks!
I would ignore the rectangular holes and drill the space(s) between the E-track slots for proper size to fit the L-track stud fittings. It appears that there is enough metal there to allow that.

That said, I don't know if the standard L-track stud fittings are long enough to protrude out from the E-track to use a nut or wing nut for fastening.

A possibility might be to use a metal plate. The plate would attach using the existing E-track fastener holes and extend up enough to provide a drilled attachment tab for the L-track stud fitting. If the plate is large enough to cover 4 each existing fastener holes I would use 4 each pop rivets installed from the backside of the plate for attachment.

This is all off the top of my head. Thinking out loud. And again, only for a bed support.

vic
 

NickSEspi

New member
...The vertical pillars are enough to support a loft bed E-track without problem.

A quick and easy method would be to bridge the higher space with a length of 1 x 6 dimensional lumber. I would use 3 each fasteners with fender washers to attach the board at the places where the body metal is available. (That should yield 6 each body fasteners per side. The dimensional lumber can cantilever out a bit if needed.) The E-track can then be attached to the 1 x 6 by pre-drilling and using sheet metal screws....


:2cents: vic
Thanks for helping me with the perfect solution for my build!

As this is a full-time, all-weather, build I'm already using 1x3 as vertical furring strips to frame it all out with a good layer of insulation. I was stumbling over how to best attach a good sturdy bed frame at about 38" high while trying to maintain a bit of a thermal break and work around that shell. I'm going to do what you suggested but I think I'll just lay out the horizontal 1x6 across the whole length of the van to keep nice even lines the whole way. I'm not sure I would have felt good about using 1x6 across the gaps for a bed support with most other setups I've seen, but I imagine steel E-track bolted into it makes for a very sturdy combo.

For the whole length of the van the horizontal 1x6 will be a good anchoring point for wall panels. In the back the 1x6 will be the perfect spot to mount E-track for my bed, And in the front of the van it will be a good height to secure cabinets and counter tops.

For the bed I'll probably do a heavily-vented sheet of 1/2" ply fastened down at a handful of points with wood screws.

I'm going to take a look at some of the hardware at the store tomorrow but I'm thinking if the brackets are deep enough I might only bolt in the 2x crossbeams on one side. Maybe alternate so one crossbeam is fastened on the driver side, the next one on the passenger side,.. I imagine that would allow for a bit of flex in the system which I've heard is a good idea. Am I nuts to attempt this on a build that regularly goes down terrible forest roads?
 

220629

Well-known member
... Am I nuts to attempt this on a build that regularly goes down terrible forest roads?
Without a couple diagrams or pictures I'm not totally understanding your design, but with the E-track and fittings in the mix I'm very certain that there will be enough flex. There won't be point loading. You'll be fine.

In my opinion some people overbuild to the point that there is no flex/give. My concern regarding flex is when a solid piece of stout metal is bridged solidly from on side to other and only fastened at end points directly to the rather brittle body special steel. Point loading can happen. Any time that E-track, L-track, wood, etc. is added to the mix the risk of point loading pretty much goes away.

vic
 

pfflyer

Well-known member
My E-track bed was made to be removed and installed easily so your install could be different but some aspects may be helpful to you . I bolted one end of the 2 x 4 to the E-track lumber hanger with an enlarged hole mainly to allow an easy install but also to allow for it to "float". The other end of the 2 x 4 just rested in the E-track lumber hanger and was about 1-1/2" short also to allow the bed to "float". My plywood bed platform was in sections and had 3" foam on top. I loosely strapped the platform diagonally to factory load rings to keep the main structure in place in an accident or on rough roads. A mattress topper and bedding went on top of this. No rattling or noise from the bed while driving. Pictures and a little more details in post 32 of my build thread. A convertible Sprinter | Sprinter-Source.com
 

Top Bottom