Inverter problem in GWV?

archeogal

New member
Hello to fellow GWV users and others who may be electrically savvy. I apologize for the length of this post, but thought it sensible to fully explain the problem.

People in this forum helped us a year ago with electrical problems, for which I have been very grateful, though I regret that I did not post my thanks then. Belated thanks to IndyTraveler, Avanti, MarcoPolo, and Davydd for advice then on this forum and the Class B forum. Now I'm back with a new problem, apparently from the inverter.

We have a 2015 GWV Classic, one of the few on the Dodge Promaster chassis. In general we love it, though still need to work out some bugs. It came with 2 AGM batteries, a 3000 watt GoPower inverter, and a 95 watt solar panel for trickle charging. No generator; we didn't want one due to the noise problem, and figured we would add more solar power if necessary. Electric appliances: electric cooktop, 7cf AC/DC refrigerator, 900 watt microwave, and Keurig coffee pot. Propane only: furnace and hot water heater.
Very early on we had trouble with the solenoid insufficiently charging the house batteries while driving, and thus having nearly no power for boondocking. We replaced the original solenoid with a White Rodgers 100 watt solenoid, as recommended by IndyTraveler, and that did indeed prevent the solenoid fuse from blowing, so made a big difference.

The next problem that occurred was that while boondocking we would have sufficient power in the evenings for nominal use of all appliances, but by morning the first usage (i.e. the coffeepot!) would cause the inverter to overload and shut down. So--no coffee! a Serious Problem! Several people had told us that we really needed more battery power to do much boondocking, so we decided to increase battery power and add solar.

6 weeks ago we had a much greater capacity solar system installed, increasing the solar panels to 3, with a total of 300 watt capacity, (all that would fit on top of our 20.5 ft van) and changed out the batteries, installing 4 6volt AGM batteries, with a controller.

That worked well for the first few times of boondocking after the new installation, but a week ago while boondocking on a very cold day, a somewhat more than normal use of the microwave resulted in the inverter shutting down, apparently due to an overload, though only the microwave, the frig, and a couple of lights were running off the system. The propane furnace was also running off and on—not sure whether the blower for that runs off the batteries/inverter? We waited a bit and tried the microwave again, with the frig turned off, and the microwave came back on briefly, but then the inverter shut down again and refused to come back on.

We spoke to the solar installer, and since the batteries were then, and still are, reading well within operating range—12.3-12.5v when the microwave was operating, and 12.9 when it was not operating, he thinks, according to our description, that the batteries and solar panels are delivering sufficient power. He thinks the likely culprit is the inverter. We are prepared to believe that the inverter was damaged very early on in our use of this RV because we were advised by the dealer to leave it on continuously, and the result was that it frequently shut itself down. Now we know to only turn it on when needed for one of the large appliances (cooktop, coffeemaker, or microwave). Lights, the refrigerator, water pump, and furnace all operate directly off the batteries.

We are thinking that we should have the inverter replaced, but since that is expensive, we are interested to hear what other people with experience with inverters might think. Any ideas? The inverter was new when we got the new van in May 2015. Doesn’t seem that it should be exhausted already, but. . .

GoPower 3000HD inverter’s readouts during this problem: voltage bar graph (not sure whether this is an input or an output graph, and the inverter manual we were given, same as the one available online, does not explain) illuminates up to one green bar usually when switched on, and the microwave will run for a couple of minutes that way, with the green bar slowly fading out to show only the yellow and red bars, and the green light of the on/off button flashing from green to red and back, until finally it shuts down completely, and turns red. The wattage bar graph, (is this an output bar?) which usually shows nothing at all when the inverter is first turned on, during microwave usage shows about 900-1000 watts. It seems to us that this means that it is not producing sufficient output? It does not recover beyond one green bar on the voltage bar graph indicator even after some hours of driving, and being plugged in to shore power for a couple of overnights.

We are not particularly technically savvy and don’t know how to test the current going into or coming out of the inverter. We can travel about 400 miles to get to a GoPower installer on our winter trip route, and will probably do that if all else fails, but . . .

Thanks for any help.
 

Spike HG

Member
Quick look

AH of battery pack is small for the load/use

-2 AGM batteries: What size
-900 watt microwave:That's a big load




Below listed, does not sound like the battery's will react well to below listed. One should never allow battery to get low. When INV shut's off, one of the reasons is battery's are low. Battery health most likely will be effected.

-dealer to leave it on continuously, and the result was that it frequently shut itself down.
 

archeogal

New member
Thanks for your quick look, but it was a little too quick. Th e early misuse of the inverter did indeed weaken the batteries considerably, which is part of the reason that we replaced them after only one year, replacing the 2 12 batteries with 4 6volt 300 amp hour batteries. This was done just 5 weeks ago. So, the batteries are fresh, and on the monitor in the van, and on the monitor that came with the new solar system, the batteries are consistently reading in the 12.2-12.7 range while under load, or 12.9 to 13 + while not under load. Yet, the system shut down when the batteries were reading 12.3, while the microwave was running.

Key question is, did the early misuse likely also ruin the inverter? Is that possible or likely? The inverter voltage readout shows only one green bar, that is, only less than one quarter of the total bar graph is lighted up. We are finding this very hard to interpret, and hard to find someone to analyze the problem. As many of you likely know, it is really hard to find a repair shop that really knows RV electrical systems. Our dealer is 1000+ miles away, and it was them who originally told us to leave the inverter on continuously, so we are reluctant to take it back there.

Current setup:
4 6volt agm, 300 amp hour batteries (new 10/2016)
3 solar panels, for a total of 300 watts (new 10/2016)
3000 watt GoPower inverter (the original, new 5/2015)

Appliances that run off the inverter--
7cf. refrigerator AC/DC only
2 burner electric cooktop
Keurig coffeepot
900 watt microwave
We are careful to allow only one of these to run at a time. No one of these should be too much for the inverter. We are going to try a hard reset of the inverter (if we can figure out how to do that). But, it does not seem that any one of these should overload the inverter.

archeogal
2015 Great West Van, 20.5 ft. on a Promaster chassis
formerly 2000 Born Free 22 ft.; 1998 Coach House 19 ft.; . . .and 3 others earlier
 

Spike HG

Member
3000 watt GoPower inverter (the original, new 5/2015)


Model # , a mod or pure sine? some devices will not work on mod or work long

Is the failure only when mic is on?
 

archeogal

New member
It is a modified sine wave inverter. I have learned over the past couple of weeks of doing some basic research on inverters that that is not the best to make a microwave work well or long, as you say. I wonder if some people who have a pure sine inverter might weigh in on whether the pure sine inverter is worth the difference in price?

The problem first showed up when the microwave was running. Today tried to turn on the inverter again, and when initially switched on it showed more green bars on the voltage indicator--about half way up, which would be some 12.7 volts. But as soon as the microwave was turned on, then the inverter immediately shut down.

I haven't yet tried to see if it will work if just using the coffeepot or the cooktop. Will try that tomorrow, hopefully.
 

Spike HG

Member
It is a modified sine wave inverter. I have learned over the past couple of weeks of doing some basic research on inverters that that is not the best to make a microwave work well or long, as you say. I wonder if some people who have a pure sine inverter might weigh in on whether the pure sine inverter is worth the difference in price?

The problem first showed up when the microwave was running. Today tried to turn on the inverter again, and when initially switched on it showed more green bars on the voltage indicator--about half way up, which would be some 12.7 volts. But as soon as the microwave was turned on, then the inverter immediately shut down.

I haven't yet tried to see if it will work if just using the coffeepot or the cooktop. Will try that tomorrow, hopefully.
Re:whether the pure sine inverter is worth the difference in price?

With a pure sine like INV (non modified wave INV), one can plug in any plug without having above listed.

One may have to upgrade to pure wave. Go Power most likely will have the INV that one could change out the mod to pure without a lot of work?
 

IndyTraveler

New member
Hi Archoegal, IndyTraveler here.

I have not had exactly your problem with the Inverter, but I have had to do some troubleshooting on the battery/converter/inverter/and AC power distribution system on our GWV Legend EX.

1. I would suggest that if you decide to visit the GoPower installer, have them do some basic voltage measurements on your battery and 12v DC distribution system prior to just changing out the Inverter. I have found that, based on our experience, GWV ***undersized the wiring*** from the battery banks, and when heavy loads are applied, voltage drop in the wiring exhibits as voltage sag at the load. I am certain that the techs at the GoPower installer are generally aware of this as a common cause of Inverter system problems. If this is your problem, it might be you need some ***heavier gauge wiring*** installed: not certain this is less costly than Inverter replacement!

2. As for modified sinewave vs sinewave, generally speaking, electronic devices (microwave) are more sensitive to electrical power waveform than things like motors or heaters (heating system blower/stove/range/coffee maker). Considering the type of problem you are having with your inverter, I would not expect the microwave to be the primary source of problems. Maybe you can rule out the microwave by operating it on shore power a few times just to assure yourself that it can operate properly with good AC power applied. ***If it works properly on shore power, the microwave is probably not the problem***. It could be, but it would extremely unusual for it to work properly on shore power but not modified sinewave.

3. As for the adequacy of your new house battery bank/solar system and expected operational capacity, the 300 Amp Hour rating of your new system is certainly an improvement from the prior system, but, your power loading is fairly substantial with the fridge, coffee pot, microwave, cook top, water pump, heating blower, etc. and only a careful survey of current draws and frequency of usage/duty cycles would exactly answer if the 300 AH rating is adequate for your needs. Additionally, the Amp Hour rating of a battery system is dependent on rate of discharge and battery temperature. All this gets quite technical in a hurry! The easy answer to how much battery capacity you need usually is "more is better".

Good luck with the troubleshooting!
 

archeogal

New member
Thanks to both SpikeHG and IndyTraveler above for your thoughtful suggestions. I have also consulted GoPower's online technical service, who answered immediately with specific suggestions. They also said to independently measure the voltage on the back of the inverter, and to check the gauge of the wiring--he said it should be at least 4/0 (0000) gauge wire--the size of your thumb. This confirms SpikeHG and IndyTraveler's advice. Then he said to test output by adding one appliance at a time.

Being very green at electrical stuff, we have decided to head to a GoPower installer to have the inverter and wiring checked. Will update this thread later, in case it will be of help to others.

Re: the microwave. Yes, it does usually operate fine on shore power. However, when running it for 22 minutes the other day on shore power, it did shut itself down, and was VERY HOT on the top. And then about 15 min. later, turned itself back on. So the microwave apparently has an internal time fuse. I am thinking that part of the problem could be that the cabinet in which it is installed does not give it enough air (cabinet is fairly tight), so it easily overheats.

But we have now also tested the inverter using just the coffeepot, and in this most recent test, it failed to run the coffeepot.

IndyTraveler's observation about inadequate wiring is something we have worried about a lot from the beginning. Perhaps the GoPower installer can check parts of that; we'll see.

Thank you again for your help.
 

avanti

2022 Ford Transit 3500
Although we never had problems with our microwave overheating, I wouldn't be at all surprised if a tight fit in an unvented cabinet could cause problems on long runs. An easy fix is to add a little 12V computer muffin fan to force exhaust air out of the cabinet. Even a very small fan venting into another cabinet will likely do the trick. You can get temperature-controlled fan speed controllers for very little money on eBay. They are designed for stereo cabinets and work very well. We used this technique to improve the ventilation behind our compressor fridge. Worked great.
 

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