DEF Adblue Diesel Exhaust Fluid 10 Starts

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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Comments have been made that DEF searches don't reveal much. I have found that when using key words of only 3 letters (eg. acronyms) the advanced search seems to work best.

Anyway. This sticky should help those looking for DEF information.

First my opinion as a parrot of the forum.

Any good quality DEF is fine. Diesel Exhaust Fluid is a standard commodity chemical.

Be very careful not to spill the DEF when filling. DEF is extremely corrosive and loves to eat copper. If unable to neatly clean an area, flush any spills with copious amounts of water. Not all DEF jugs are created equal when it comes to the spout/fill design. Some members like the convenience of the bulk dispensed product found at truck plazas.

Based upon experience, some members recommend not waiting for the DEF level warning light. Apparently the DEF monitor system is finicky and low level can trigger misadventures. DEF does have a shelf life. Those same members feel that it is better to keep topped up than to worry about the fluid aging.

A 1 gallon refill to address the DEF level warning may not be enough. Some good input from Sailquick Roger. :thumbup:
Mark Cooperstein,
How much DEF Fluid did you add?
Did you get the low DEF Fluid / Add DEF Fluid notification BEFORE you added the DEF @ Love's?
Did you only put in 1 gallon of DEF, or a 2.5 gallon DEF "KIT"?
One gallon is NOT enough to reset the low DEF warning message. It takes 2 or more gallons to
reset the warning.
There should be some MB Sprinter dealers fairly near where you are.
If you still have the 5 year/100k mile emissions warranty, repairs to the SCR/DEF system should
be covered by the warranty.
Hope this helps,
Roger

A TEMPORARY 10 Starts Fix.
Thanks and a hat tip goes to Dennis Lindenengineering. :thumbup::thumbup:

Well Gents you will have this info here & ONLY Here !
(except maybe if you are in the my back workshop by the de-grease tank!):laughing:

By a bit of shop experimentation if you want to kill your "no starter in ten", and continue your trip with less worries about getting stranded far from a dealer or lunatic like me :laughing:
then--read on!

If or When your CEL comes on with a DEF light fault--like a tank heater fault--simply remove the FRONT NOx sensor and let it dangle in the wind but don't disconnect it!


If the missus says it's indecent letting it dangle down then clip it up with a zip tie and carry on & then pester a dealer workshop later at your leisure. As for the threaded hole in the bazooka tube! ,don't worry about it you will hardly hear the whoosh!

In short it confuses the system and it won't lock out nor even put the CEL back on if your clear it!

I tried in for the 6th time on 6 Blurrtecs yesterday and after more than 100 miles of stop staring & mixed highway running --NO LIGHT--No fault!

Being Mr pollution control conformist (unlike my Gloucestershire ancestors who were Non conformist ) you heard this from the elvers alright!.:thumbup:
Dennis

:thinking:Elvers?, elvers" :-
Look it up as a Gloucestershire delicacy ate with eggs and maybe bacon --some says its an old remedy for vigour & cost a lot less than Viagra!:hmmm:
To avoid crawling under the truck, the NOX sensors may be able to be unplugged as shown in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxsZviZRDnQ

Photo courtesy JFloFoto.
FrontNOXsensor.jpg

Added:
The years the work-around applies to may be limited.
In short 2010 thru 2013.
Dennis
I suggest that BlueTec owners review the entire thread.

**************
Back to the original DEF thread starting here:


Some links.

Interesting AdBlue event
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48399

When to add DEF

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40367

DEF light ON even though reservoir is full
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16560

:cheers: vic

From a recent thread.

...

Regarding the countdown:
I had the same problem twice. If you have a hard stop the [DEF] fluid all goes forward in the tank and somehow out of the reservoir and shows the sensors not wetted. Bam there goes the 10 start countdown. ...
:hmmm:

That sounds like another factor to support the theory of keeping the reservoir full and not waiting for the dash warning before filling.

:2cents: vic
Added:
I ass-u-me'd that all DEF would be created equal. Maybe not... :idunno:
Some research from SSTraveler. :thumbup:
Apply as you feel appropriate.

I found this explaination researching on the internet, "Independent blenders of DEF can be registered with the API and not meet all the ISO 22241 standards for testing every batch and therefore some batches are not meeting the very strict ISO 22241 standards.

This can happen for a number of reasons, but primarily due to the type and purity of urea is not the Pharmaceutical Grade Urea but rather the Agricultural Grade Urea which contains impurities like aldehydes and excessive levels of biuret in relation to the ISO 22241 standards which are poisonous to the SCR systems. The other area that will cause critical failures for the manufacturing of DEF is the water purity. De-Ionized water is critical to the manufacturing of DEF. The slightest amount of metals/contaminants found in the water will cause the fluid to not meet the ISO 22241 specification and these elements will be poisonous to the SCR system. Elements like: Calcium, Zinc, Magnesium, Iron, Chromium, Nickel, Sodium and Potassium. All are found in varying quantities/concentrations in typical tap water."

The containers of Walmart DEF, in my area, are labeled API certified but are not labeled "DEF ISO 22241." ISO defines a strict level of quality and purity going into the manufacturing of the DEF. If Walmart's doesn't include the compliance with ISO standard on its labeling then you get DEF but possible not high quality/purity manufactured DEF. I don't want to take this risk to save a couple of bucks. It's just one more thing to worry about and expensive to repair! Walmart DEF falls into the "Buyer Beware" category, use may come with some risk.
Added 20171125
Some Insight about repairs to the SCR Selective Catalytic Reduction aka DEF System.
Thanks goes to all contributors and of course Lindenengineering Dennis. :thumbup::thumbup:

Last week I added two bottles of Def to the tank and the next day I got the countdown message. Made it through the week until I could get it in for service. The countdown actually reset one day while I was driving back to 16 starts. I had it in for service today for a fuel filter and to check the Def system. I was hoping for a resolution but ended up with a $7600 quote for stuff that doesn't need to be done. I left with fewer starts then I got there with and no hope. I'm still not sure what caused the countdown to start as there is still fluid in the tank. They said a hose was pinched which was not the case as I checked it myself by lowering the tank a bit. What I'm wondering is if the problem is resolved with the system reset itself and will the countdown go away? The CEL is also on for nox codes. Is the Def system at related to cel? Or are they separate issues.
Last week I added two bottles of Def to the tank and the next day I got the countdown message. Made it through the week until I could get it in for service. The countdown actually reset one day while I was driving back to 16 starts. I had it in for service today for a fuel filter and to check the Def system. I was hoping for a resolution but ended up with a $7600 quote for stuff that doesn't need to be done. I left with fewer starts then I got there with and no hope. I'm still not sure what caused the countdown to start as there is still fluid in the tank. They said a hose was pinched which was not the case as I checked it myself by lowering the tank a bit. What I'm wondering is if the problem is resolved with the system reset itself and will the countdown go away? The CEL is also on for nox codes. Is the Def system at related to cel? Or are they separate issues.
I feel to compelled to comment on these two post experiences.

Let me first state that you CANNOT even as an enthusiastic DIY'r fix this system properly unless you have access to factory style scanners and abilities to down load programs called SCN coding!

Yes there are some things you can fix but overall MB has locked you out of it; even shops who fix this stuff for a living can't access it either unless they have the factory tool access and --yes SCN coding downloads !

As an overview the whole system needs to be seen & treated as a complete system which has many functions.
Yes DEF levels and the heater unit, you can replace yourself.
BUT
Unless you have a suitable scanner you cannot do function tests on the DEF supply system.
Your best best if you suspect the fluid is to change it, because it too will affect the way the system, works if the concentration is incorrect!

Is this important? --well yes!
If you have the system apparently back up and running you need to see if it will develop 5000 HPa of delivery pressure--and that it will run down to a reserve or ready line pressure.
Having assured yourself it's running as it should the next step is the check delivery pressure at the dosing nozzle and spray distribution pattern.
Yes you can replace the DEF injector as a DIY operation.

Testing it is another matter
That entails setting the system with again a FACTORY style scanner in injection qty test procedures, collecting the resultant and measuring the DEF liquid dispensed with a burette.
You need 80 millitres minimum over the prescribed test.

Now as to the exhaust SCR Cat--the hard parts. The bazooka tube!
Yes an easy DIY job just a fiddle to remove and replace.

Again after you have done, what about the differential pressure sensor, what's it reading?
Does it need an updated sensors or socket modification kit?
Dealer visit?

With all that in hand its only left to concentrate on the NOx sensors themselves --Now on their 5th iteration. the latest ones are NGK's not Bosch!
Yes you can DIY install them but they will be needing a factory SCN encode adaption which is the problem you will encounter with this particular DIY practice. You will need to approach a dealer for the adaptation., Cost is about $150 .

Now with all that down your last task is to do health check with scanner and make sure the NOX reduction is at least 70%.
Of Course fail to do this and make sure you get full adaption and monitor drive cycle closure will put the light on between 80- to 220 miles and you will be back to square one most likely about to scream in frustration at the attempts to DIY fix it!
Hope this helps with an overview of understanding.
Dennis
As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread. There is further discussion found there as to the reliability of various suppliers.
 
Last edited:

just4grins

New member
Here's my point of view for what it's worth. If you follow MB's recommendations and rely on the low DEF indicator you can have problems. Why? Because DEF is corrosive if it dries out on a sensor that now has air reaching it a corrosive environment can be created. The DEF can crust up on the sensor and start to corrode it. The safest thing to do is to always have the sensor submerged so it can't corrode. I top off my DEF every three or four tanks of fuel and it keeps the sensor under the DEF.
I look at it as preventive maintenance.
 

Keeft

New member
I always wait till the van shows DEF level at just under 50% the add a 2.5 gallon jug from Walmart or Autozone for under $12. Never any issues.
 

Boxster1971

2012 Sprinter 3500 Ext
I always wait till the van shows DEF level at just under 50% the add a 2.5 gallon jug from Walmart or Autozone for under $12. Never any issues.
How do you know when the DEF level is just below 50%? From looking at the 2016 Owners manual the current Sprinters only have the same indications of DEF level as my 2012. Basically you get a warning when the DEF level is less than 1.5 gallons. That is well below the 50% level.

I have my DEF filled at each oil/filter change, then add a 2.5 gallon container 5,000 mile after the service. After 80,000 miles I've never had a DEF warning.
 

K-9 SPRINTER

Active member
Im lucky enough to have the larger tank, mine is , 2010, Ive only had 1 major problem, ( the heater failed due to bad programming.. ( recall ) other then that I get about 8500 miles between warnings. I put in a 2.5 gal of blue def , it does take a few starts before the computer clears the code, but never a problem. Ive always got my Def at Walmart ( Blue Def) @ $11.99) They do have another brand for $9.99
 

Bobnoxious

A&P Mechanic (RET)
Here is a cut and paste from a MB Service Information pub.

"SI14.40-D-0024DJ
Service Information: Replace SCR components
14.8.13 (Date)
MODEL 906 with ENGINE 642, 651
We hereby ask you to please remember that for vehicles equipped with the SCR Generation 2 system, when one of the following components is replaced the values in the AdBlue® control unit have to be parameterized using STAR DIAGNOSIS and Xentry Diagnostics:
AdBlue® container
AdBlue® injection nozzle AdBlue® metering control unit
AdBlue® delivery module AdBlue® wiring harness Engine control unit."


I would infer that many Service Departments, as a result of lack of training, were not "Teaching-In" the new components and subsequently could not reset fault codes that necessitated the publication of the Service Information.:hmmm::thinking:
 

vnvet

Member
The death of DEF system.

Right after my oil change and warm up, the CHK/DEF displayed. Not ever having it display in the ten months and 18,000 miles I've owned it was quite a surprise. The most I ever put in it at any one time to "keep it topped off" was a little over a gallon in 3,000 miles. Of the five gallons I purchased, I had half jug left (1.25G) and put it in thinking that's should do it. Nope.

Went and got another jug (2.5) and put it in. Light still on. Went and got yet another jug. Each and every time I would fill it, the fluid would come up to the cap causing me to think it was full. As I looked at the fill tube closer from above, I then crawled under to examine it and it is apparent that the tube doesn't go straight downward to the tank.
So I moved the van to an steeper incline on the driveway ass down and added one more gallon of the second jug without any gurgling and false indicating it was full by fluid not going all the way into the tank like a fuel filling tube does. Of the second jug, I got about 1/2 of it in or, one gallon. All & all, I added four gallons to the five gallon tank.

OK. Finally full. Needless to say, I was very surprised that there was NO warning I was that low on DEF. And of course, I had other four letter expletive thoughts about MB design to fail engineering.

Drove to work and back and a couple other errands roughly 90+ miles and several starts. CHK/DEF still on so called the dealership and asked WTF ? Serv.Mgr. asked how many miles drove after fluid adding. I told him. He said I needed to drive 100 miles and it would reset. OK....

Next day drove to work another 30+ miles with a another four start/stops on the way. Parked it, light still on. Called dealership again and said it is still on. He asked if I drove it 100 miles without stopping. NO ! He said "you need to do that." I replied, you never said 100 non-stop miles. He replied, oops, my bad, I thought I told you that.... Great.. So I figured I'll leave work early and hit the freeway for the 100.

After that conversation a few minutes later I got back in to park in another location closer to unloading zone. Key on, TEN STARTS.. WTF ? I called him back and told him. He said, oh man, you better get it in here ASAP. Got it in that afternoon and they scoped it.

45 mins. later he comes back and says, "your van is really angry"... Oh really ?
Twelve codes, entire SCR system is dead and maybe the CAT also but won't know without replacing all the other parts. $5,299.29 PLUS another $1,700.00 if the CAT is fried...

The only reason I'm providing this is a warning what one could expect should one have the misfortune of their "DEF tank level sensor" malfunctioning as I was told mine did, among other "possible early warning" failures associated with the electrical components of the SCR system needed in order to provide critical data of the system monitoring status.

Prior to me owing the van, it was a fleet rig driven daily 300 freeway miles round trip by a transport company. I have 3-1/2 pages of owner/dealer maint. records of MB scheduled maintenance in the 3 years and 200K miles it was previously owned showing SCR parts replaced and other repairs.

I figured, all the crap that could go wrong and went wrong had been taken care of and I should not have to deal with those for some time.

NOT!
 

Bobnoxious

A&P Mechanic (RET)
How many miles? Sadly, I believe your vehicle is at or nearing the end of it designed service life. Only you can determine the best course of action. If I were confronted with similar circumstances, I would take it to a shop specializing in German cars and employing Mercedes-Benz diagnostic instruments for a second opinion. If the tech has a German accent even better. A competent technician with the proper instruments should be able to isolate and diagnose the issues.
 

SSMaui

Fleet Chief
The death of DEF system. 45 mins. later he comes back and says, "your van is really angry"... Oh really ?
Twelve codes, entire SCR system is dead and maybe the CAT also but won't know without replacing all the other parts. $5,299.29 PLUS another $1,700.00 if the CAT is fried...
I find this very hard to believe.

No such thing as "entire system dead".

I think they are preying on folks not truly understanding how the systems work and the publicity that they are trouble prone to bilk you out of thousands.

Since you probably paid for the diagnosis, I would ask for the actual Xentry quick test results printout with the "Freeze Frame" data. Post it here. :thumbup:
 

swolltaire

2014 2500 I4 144"
It seems like a number of people reporting the DEF issue have 2014 I4s -- has anyone else noticed this? I'll add myself to that list... I just picked up a 2014 I4 last week and yesterday received the CEL/DEF warning combo. Put in 3.5 gals of Ad Blue today and the light is still on. Also isn't topped off, even after that much fluid. Back to the store tomorrow AM for another jug.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
The death of DEF system.

Right after my oil change and warm up, the CHK/DEF displayed. Not ever having it display in the ten months and 18,000 miles I've owned it was quite a surprise. The most I ever put in it at any one time to "keep it topped off" was a little over a gallon in 3,000 miles. Of the five gallons I purchased, I had half jug left (1.25G) and put it in thinking that's should do it. Nope.

Went and got another jug (2.5) and put it in. Light still on. Went and got yet another jug. Each and every time I would fill it, the fluid would come up to the cap causing me to think it was full. As I looked at the fill tube closer from above, I then crawled under to examine it and it is apparent that the tube doesn't go straight downward to the tank.
So I moved the van to an steeper incline on the driveway ass down and added one more gallon of the second jug without any gurgling and false indicating it was full by fluid not going all the way into the tank like a fuel filling tube does. Of the second jug, I got about 1/2 of it in or, one gallon. All & all, I added four gallons to the five gallon tank.

OK. Finally full. Needless to say, I was very surprised that there was NO warning I was that low on DEF. And of course, I had other four letter expletive thoughts about MB design to fail engineering.

Drove to work and back and a couple other errands roughly 90+ miles and several starts. CHK/DEF still on so called the dealership and asked WTF ? Serv.Mgr. asked how many miles drove after fluid adding. I told him. He said I needed to drive 100 miles and it would reset. OK....

Next day drove to work another 30+ miles with a another four start/stops on the way. Parked it, light still on. Called dealership again and said it is still on. He asked if I drove it 100 miles without stopping. NO ! He said "you need to do that." I replied, you never said 100 non-stop miles. He replied, oops, my bad, I thought I told you that.... Great.. So I figured I'll leave work early and hit the freeway for the 100.

After that conversation a few minutes later I got back in to park in another location closer to unloading zone. Key on, TEN STARTS.. WTF ? I called him back and told him. He said, oh man, you better get it in here ASAP. Got it in that afternoon and they scoped it.

45 mins. later he comes back and says, "your van is really angry"... Oh really ?
Twelve codes, entire SCR system is dead and maybe the CAT also but won't know without replacing all the other parts. $5,299.29 PLUS another $1,700.00 if the CAT is fried...

The only reason I'm providing this is a warning what one could expect should one have the misfortune of their "DEF tank level sensor" malfunctioning as I was told mine did, among other "possible early warning" failures associated with the electrical components of the SCR system needed in order to provide critical data of the system monitoring status.

Prior to me owing the van, it was a fleet rig driven daily 300 freeway miles round trip by a transport company. I have 3-1/2 pages of owner/dealer maint. records of MB scheduled maintenance in the 3 years and 200K miles it was previously owned showing SCR parts replaced and other repairs.

I figured, all the crap that could go wrong and went wrong had been taken care of and I should not have to deal with those for some time.

NOT!
Interesting chain of events.
Who on earth stated your system is angry?

I would give that shop especially a dealership a wide berth.
The system is locked out due to an emissions fault!

The reasons can be manyfold.
First & foremost from the middle of 2013 MB changed their operating system for much of this Blurrtech system and all the available scan tools up to that date available in NA won't access it!
That's why its dead to the un-informed and those that want you to believe that!
Even all this clone Xentry stuff you have been buying from China won't access it.
MB has stopped that gravy train to DIY fixing their products with more factory based SCN coding programs and adaptation that will your head spin as you try to grasp what is wrong and how to fix it without having to take it to a dealer..This is not for you Youtube graduates or even involved DIY'rs carrying an Autel like a gunslinger --you simply can't access the system--BUT its not dead that it is certain, nor is it angry!
Back to my often funny snide remarks about MB products I make on these forum!--Why are you doing trying to fix it? That is not for you to attempt --all this maintenance & repairs is a MB dealer's job! Your job is just to put fuel in it and drive it OH forgot! must also mention gloat over that Star badge up front!

YOU MUSTN'T TRY TO FIX IT!

Now I am talking Blurrtechs here, so generally CD16 stuff not earlier CD14 engines but some stuff applies somewhat when referring to Cats and DPF's.

I will overview it otherwise this post will be a diatribe.
When the Adblurr light mysteriously comes on and won't go out there is most likely a DPF, Fluid treatment or Cat issue and consequently there is a series of steps and adaptions that are involved to get the light to go off. In many cases this involves a series of scan tool adaptions & road tests to get the rig to go through drive cycles to make it work and re-set itself. Most scan tools out there will not let you get within a mile of doing this!

So backing up a bit!
The DPF and the differential pressure sensor . Well at first for Blurrtechs ONLY! There is a little known socket change for about $25 plus some hoses make up a kit which when installed with a new Diff pressure sensor at about $90, changes the DPF soot and ash figures quite dramatically after you have done an adaptation/teach in!. Only achieved with a factory style scan tool.

Makes me wonder how of you many folk have changed their DPF etc at great cost when they didn't need to! $$$$$$$!

The same applies to the SS lines--blow them clear with a shop line when DISCONNECTED --BUT DON"T FFS just blast shop air into the line from the DPF end!!!! You will wreck the piezo style guts of the diff pressure sensor. Hence back pressure figures get sent to the PCM and Adblue module --lights come on eventually! This apples to ALL such systems not on MB's OK!
In many cases the slip nut on the DPF are corroded out! I often fit new lines because they won't seal properly in service.

Cleaning Cats --I will say for the most part this is doesn't work--its a new 'un or nothing! In fact in the Blurrtech the cat section up front of the DPF filter in the DPF (carcass of the DPF) is so small that it can rarely be cleaned effectively!
A new Blurrtech DPF is $1350 and don't let overcharging Dealers allow you to believe otherwise!
The same goes for the CD14 engine that price with a core for the barrel shaped DPF is $650. One dealer here in the Denver metro wants $1500 for it --No wonder they have a new shop to pay for!:thumbdown:
Rip of pricing for sure!--Frankly MB USA & MB dealers nationwide ARE the problem for the most part with these systems not the solution when boiled down.


VNVet where are you at this juncture this van of yours?
Dead in the water or fixed?
Dennis
 

vnvet

Member
Interesting chain of events.
Who on earth stated your system is angry?
I would give that shop especially a dealership a wide berth.

The system is locked out due to an emissions fault!

The reasons can be manyfold.
First & foremost from the middle of 2013 MB changed their operating system for much of this Blurrtech system and all the available scan tools up to that date available in NA won't access it!
That's why its dead to the un-informed and those that want you to believe that!
Even all this clone Xentry stuff you have been buying from China won't access it.
MB has stopped that gravy train to DIY fixing their products with more factory based SCN coding programs and adaptation that will your head spin as you try to grasp what is wrong and how to fix it without having to take it to a dealer..This is not for you Youtube graduates or even involved DIY'rs carrying an Autel like a gunslinger --you simply can't access the system--BUT its not dead that it is certain, nor is it angry!
Back to my often funny snide remarks about MB products I make on these forum!--Why are you doing trying to fix it? That is not for you to attempt --all this maintenance & repairs is a MB dealer's job! Your job is just to put fuel in it and drive it OH forgot! must also mention gloat over that Star badge up front!

YOU MUSTN'T TRY TO FIX IT!

Now I am talking Blurrtechs here, so generally CD16 stuff not earlier CD14 engines but some stuff applies somewhat when referring to Cats and DPF's.

I will overview it otherwise this post will be a diatribe.
When the Adblurr light mysteriously comes on and won't go out there is most likely a DPF, Fluid treatment or Cat issue and consequently there is a series of steps and adaptions that are involved to get the light to go off. In many cases this involves a series of scan tool adaptions & road tests to get the rig to go through drive cycles to make it work and re-set itself. Most scan tools out there will not let you get within a mile of doing this!

So backing up a bit!
The DPF and the differential pressure sensor . Well at first for Blurrtechs ONLY! There is a little known socket change for about $25 plus some hoses make up a kit which when installed with a new Diff pressure sensor at about $90, changes the DPF soot and ash figures quite dramatically after you have done an adaptation/teach in!. Only achieved with a factory style scan tool.

Makes me wonder how of you many folk have changed their DPF etc at great cost when they didn't need to! $$$$$$$!

The same applies to the SS lines--blow them clear with a shop line when DISCONNECTED --BUT DON"T FFS just blast shop air into the line from the DPF end!!!! You will wreck the piezo style guts of the diff pressure sensor. Hence back pressure figures get sent to the PCM and Adblue module --lights come on eventually! This apples to ALL such systems not on MB's OK!
In many cases the slip nut on the DPF are corroded out! I often fit new lines because they won't seal properly in service.

Cleaning Cats --I will say for the most part this is doesn't work--its a new 'un or nothing! In fact in the Blurrtech the cat section up front of the DPF filter in the DPF (carcass of the DPF) is so small that it can rarely be cleaned effectively!
A new Blurrtech DPF is $1350 and don't let overcharging Dealers allow you to believe otherwise!
The same goes for the CD14 engine that price with a core for the barrel shaped DPF is $650. One dealer here in the Denver metro wants $1500 for it --No wonder they have a new shop to pay for!:thumbdown:
Rip of pricing for sure!--Frankly MB USA & MB dealers nationwide ARE the problem for the most part with these systems not the solution when boiled down.


VNVet where are you at this juncture this van of yours?
Dead in the water or fixed?
Dennis


Who on earth stated your system is angry?
The Service Manager at a very large MB/Sprinter stealership.

I would give that shop especially a dealership a wide berth.
I have. I cancelled the appointment for repairs and have taken other measures to ensure that it will never happen again.
 

Attachments

lindenengineering

Well-known member
A shot gun job in the making.
There is no mechanic' s notes to go with this I suppose & what was actually diagnosed as defective--Just pay up and shut up!

Try to get a second opinion.
What a mess!
Dennis
 

vnvet

Member
A shot gun job in the making.
There is no mechanic' s notes to go with this I suppose & what was actually diagnosed as defective--Just pay up and shut up!

Try to get a second opinion.
What a mess!
Dennis
As mentioned, I've taken other measures to ensure it never happens again.

Thanks Dennis
 

Attachments

avanti

2014 GWV Legend 3500 I4
Even all this clone Xentry stuff you have been buying from China won't access it.
Dennis,
Can you elaborate on this? My clone Xentry stuff appears to be able to do everything except resetting a countdown (it CAN add 5 starts to it, though--I don't know how often). It certainly can do live monitoring of all sensors as far as I can see. All of the adaptations appear to be available as well. I have been following your advice about not messing with anything that I don't fully understand, so I don't know if the adaptations would actually work, but they sure look like they would. Am I in for a surprise if I ever attempt something deep?
 

Bobnoxious

A&P Mechanic (RET)
Interesting chain of events.
Who on earth stated your system is angry?

I would give that shop especially a dealership a wide berth.
The system is locked out due to an emissions fault!

The reasons can be manyfold.
First & foremost from the middle of 2013 MB changed their operating system for much of this Blurrtech system and all the available scan tools up to that date available in NA won't access it!
That's why its dead to the un-informed and those that want you to believe that!
Even all this clone Xentry stuff you have been buying from China won't access it.
MB has stopped that gravy train to DIY fixing their products with more factory based SCN coding programs and adaptation that will your head spin as you try to grasp what is wrong and how to fix it without having to take it to a dealer..This is not for you Youtube graduates or even involved DIY'rs carrying an Autel like a gunslinger --you simply can't access the system--BUT its not dead that it is certain, nor is it angry!
Back to my often funny snide remarks about MB products I make on these forum!--Why are you doing trying to fix it? That is not for you to attempt --all this maintenance & repairs is a MB dealer's job! Your job is just to put fuel in it and drive it OH forgot! must also mention gloat over that Star badge up front!

YOU MUSTN'T TRY TO FIX IT!

Now I am talking Blurrtechs here, so generally CD16 stuff not earlier CD14 engines but some stuff applies somewhat when referring to Cats and DPF's.

I will overview it otherwise this post will be a diatribe.
When the Adblurr light mysteriously comes on and won't go out there is most likely a DPF, Fluid treatment or Cat issue and consequently there is a series of steps and adaptions that are involved to get the light to go off. In many cases this involves a series of scan tool adaptions & road tests to get the rig to go through drive cycles to make it work and re-set itself. Most scan tools out there will not let you get within a mile of doing this!

So backing up a bit!
The DPF and the differential pressure sensor . Well at first for Blurrtechs ONLY! There is a little known socket change for about $25 plus some hoses make up a kit which when installed with a new Diff pressure sensor at about $90, changes the DPF soot and ash figures quite dramatically after you have done an adaptation/teach in!. Only achieved with a factory style scan tool.

Makes me wonder how of you many folk have changed their DPF etc at great cost when they didn't need to! $$$$$$$!

The same applies to the SS lines--blow them clear with a shop line when DISCONNECTED --BUT DON"T FFS just blast shop air into the line from the DPF end!!!! You will wreck the piezo style guts of the diff pressure sensor. Hence back pressure figures get sent to the PCM and Adblue module --lights come on eventually! This apples to ALL such systems not on MB's OK!
In many cases the slip nut on the DPF are corroded out! I often fit new lines because they won't seal properly in service.

Cleaning Cats --I will say for the most part this is doesn't work--its a new 'un or nothing! In fact in the Blurrtech the cat section up front of the DPF filter in the DPF (carcass of the DPF) is so small that it can rarely be cleaned effectively!
A new Blurrtech DPF is $1350 and don't let overcharging Dealers allow you to believe otherwise!
The same goes for the CD14 engine that price with a core for the barrel shaped DPF is $650. One dealer here in the Denver metro wants $1500 for it --No wonder they have a new shop to pay for!:thumbdown:
Rip of pricing for sure!--Frankly MB USA & MB dealers nationwide ARE the problem for the most part with these systems not the solution when boiled down.


VNVet where are you at this juncture this van of yours?
Dead in the water or fixed?
Dennis


Yep!
 

Medic

New member
How do you know when the DEF level is just below 50%? From looking at the 2016 Owners manual the current Sprinters only have the same indications of DEF level as my 2012. Basically you get a warning when the DEF level is less than 1.5 gallons. That is well below the 50% level.

I have my DEF filled at each oil/filter change, then add a 2.5 gallon container 5,000 mile after the service. After 80,000 miles I've never had a DEF warning.
Can a ScanGuage 2 give you your DEF level?:popcorn:
 

Bobnoxious

A&P Mechanic (RET)
I've never heard of anybody on this forum mention a Scan Gauge can read DEF levels. Consensus is to keep the tank full during storage and top-off every 2 fill ups. I do and have not experienced any issues.
 
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