Please help review my wiring diagram :)

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
tiny thread-hijack: LED back-lit LCD TVs differ from fluorescent back lit LCDs in that they're able to be totally turned off in areas that want to be *black*. So it's valid to make some distinguishing name-difference between the two back-light technologies (there's usually additional advertising bumpf like "True Black!!").

I would never bet on the death of confusion... :cheers:

--dick
Agree with selective illumination areas,
Re “death of confusion” it is definitely possible but on the other side of a black hole just past the event horizon.:cheers:

George - sorry for the hijack
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
I am using this program:

https://www.edrawsoft.com/

It has a free 30 day trial. Or you can buy it for $99. I'm just using the trial and then taking a screenshot of the image because if you export a jpg or pdf from the program while in the free trial, it plasters a bunch of watermarks on the image that makes it very hard to read.
If using Windows 10 you might try using the "snipping" tool that is listed under "Windows Accessories" in the program list. Just select the information you want and it can be saved or printed.
 

Attachments

drummerscott

2006 2500 140"
The shunt based Ctek Time to Go monitor is only available as part of their 100A off grid kit which also includes the D250S and Smartpass.

http://smartercharger.com/products/batterychargers/100a-off-road-charging-system-package/

The CTX Battery Sense is a separate component that only monitors battery voltage (as far as I can tell) and makes that available via a bluetooth connection.

http://smartercharger.com/accessories/#CTEK CTX Battery Sense

George,
We plan on having a small semi-permanent inverter but no shore power into the van. We will charge/maintain the batteries with the CTX2500 plug in charger connected to a cord reel all located underneath the van.


Got it. So are you happy with the Time to Go monitor that comes with that kit?


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drummerscott

2006 2500 140"
@drummerscott, I'm using the 250s/Smartpass combination in my 2014. Some thoughts:



- your perception of the role each plays above isn't accurate. The distinction between them is the 250S is essentially a DC:DC "smart" charger and the Smartpass is a slightly more intelligent version of a classic aux battery charging relay. The 250S "pro" is it can output suitable charging voltages for all charging cycles, even if it is receiving a low-ish voltage from the alternator; the 250S "con" is that it is current limited . . . only 20A max output. The Smartpass on the other hand can pass 80A (even higher for intermittent periods) but is really only passing whatever voltage is provided from the alternator.

The value proposition to using the combination is getting high-current bulk charging from the Smartpass and quality "smart charging" from the 250S at absorption and float cycles. And the 250S can conveniently (and compactly) act as your solar controller.



- you can place both the temp sensors (one from Smartpass, one from 250S) on the same single battery. This way, they have same temp intelligence. Pick a "representative" one of your two batteries and put both sensors there. Not crucial . . . with a well done charging system, and both batteries in same/similar location, their temps are likely to be the same. In my case it was much easier (in terms of running wire) with both sensors on one battery.



- your ground wire gauge can be small from Smartpass/250S to gnd. The charging currents are not moving through these wires; its only the supply V for the CTEK electronics.



- ideally run the main wire from alternator directly to Smartpass (as shown on your diagram) and bridge that to the 250S via the bracket things provided by CTEK. It will function with the wire going to 250S and bridged to the Smartpass, but you're needlessly moving high currents across the (relatively) smaller sq mm of the CTEK bridge bracket things.



- the CTEK Battery Sense product is not designed for RV house system use in my opinion. Personally I find the Trimetric systems a bit dated and klunky. I suggest you consider a Victron BMV-700 monitor: $160-ish, small, robust functionality. I really like mine.



- in theory, three 100W panels could output >16A in perfect sunlight. Unlikely no doubt, but perhaps consider a 20A rather than 15A CB or fuse on the main wire to panels.


Thanks so much for all the info. Much appreciated.


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drummerscott

2006 2500 140"
If using Windows 10 you might try using the "snipping" tool that is listed under "Windows Accessories" in the program list. Just select the information you want and it can be saved or printed.


Thanks but I'm on a Mac. Using command+shift+4 is a super easy way on macs to take a screenshot of anything. You just push those 3 keys and draw a shape around what you want to screenshot.


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