Just sold last Promaster Weekender build so I thought it time to do another personal Sprinter Build that will be similar. Goal is to sleep 4, seat 5, and make the van focused more on a daily driver than a camping only van but keep interior flexible. Like with any build, compromises always have to be made in the layout. This will also include the new CCV top for Sprinters. I will mention where I source some of the stuff to help others find what I use instead of searching threads for hundreds of hours and may discuss why I use certain resources to avoid what could be problems.
Promaster Pic; this van turned out super nice. Build thread on PM Forum.
Thread Link (other forum sites great places to get other ideas and how to stuff, doesn't always have to be a Sprinter, they are all similar for the most part)
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50025
First step was to locate a low roof van, as you need to start with this to put a pop top on it. I don't like to use short wheelbase high roofs to sleep 4...way too tight and no room for your gear. They are much easier to convert and no hassle and costs of a pop top, but I think its a big compromise mainly because of money and time to put a top on. It is a super big pain to put a top on (time and money), but well worth it in the end and you add a lot of value. I decided to start with the Crew as this is the best arrangement if you are looking to do a weekender build as it already has a somewhat finished interior, includes factory seating, headliner, floor...later I may upgrade the seating but I wanted to show how simple it is to have a van that can transport family and have safe seating. If you take one of these, add a top and a rear bed...boom! Seating and sleeping for the whole family for under 15k! Tops are between 8-11k and a rear bed 2-4k (professional installation and fabrication). Of course a lot more can be added, but it isn't needed to convert a van to a camper for the entire family. You don't "need" solar, insulation, sound system, vented windows, captains chairs, heat.... The point is you don't have to do a 40-60k build to have a nice camper. Its kinda like remodeling your house...the sky is the limit.
Regarding seating why start with a crew or passenger van if you need to seat more than two? There isn't a cheap way to do safe seating correctly unless you start with factory option and if you are looking at "crash tested" seating this is the only way unless you invest into the expensive systems that have been tested and many of those are not very ideal or they are totally custom. Simple bolts and washer don't cut it if you are concerned with safety. The factory seating is by far the least expensive way to have seats and is crash tested and insurance is not an issue.
The thread will not cover to much the how too stuff step by step, many threads on this stuff but will touch on the process of the build.
First things first...give it some eye candy...gotta look good.
BFG's and Dip'd wheels. Could have powder coated the rims, but Dipping them is an easy DIY and you can change the color in the future. I have had very good experience with this process and if you use glossifier or other treatments it will not fade. This is flat black with glossifier on top of it.
Next was to start the insulation process and since I had the door panels out I figured it was time to upgrade the speakers and start the process of wiring up a fuse panel for accessories since I have everything opened up.
Insulation I use is the 3M product covering Raam Matt sound dampening. In addition I use MLV (mass loaded vinyl with open cell foam) over the wheel wells as well as key floor areas. I find this is the optimal bang for your buck materials that gives a very high end professional result and fairly easy to use. It isn't cheap and is time consuming to put in correctly, but the van ends up as quiet as the wife's Honda Pilot. Its important to use auto specific materials. You don't need to get all fancy...just use quality materials and the result will be excellent.
Door Panel-you cant use the 3M inside the door panels so it must be attached to the Panel itself rather than the door due to window clearance. The bottom of the door you can put insulation and sound mat just fine.
And while at it upgrade the speaker components...I am putting in component speakers in the front, coax speakers in rear, 5 channel amp,sound processor, and a 12 inch sub. Adapter must be used on the front door and some trimming is needed to clear the cone with the adapter ring I got from 3D impact products on ebay. Hein also sells the 3M stuff. They make some really nice products to make installs much easier and professional, well worth the money to make the job top notch. The system components for this run around $1k+lots of labor, dealer add for fading to rear, and some pins for the harness. Other threads cover this very well on the how to and stereo forums cover installation. The sound processor is needed so you can convert the factory stereo sound to a much better signal to your amp. This is a must if you want quality sound while keeping the factory head unit. The end result is amazing and you have stealth in what is a high end sound system. Amazing sound quality is not in your Sprinter! This is a major project and can take one to two days to complete if not longer depending on speakers and placement of them. Its for sure an advanced skill. I get my stuff from Crutchfield because then I know its under factory warranty. Their service and tech support is excellent so if you are DIYing a stereo I strongly recommend them just for the tech support; but you are going to pay a little more than finding the stuff from a grey market channel.
To do the electrical you do have to take your van apart a bit to run wires properly. In the front floor you can use the factory conduit to run your electrical cables from the upfitter connections from driver to passenger seat which is where I am installing all the electronics and fuse panel. Its a lot of stuff and I want it out of the way but also still have access through the side panel for maintenance.
Floor
6/5 inch mid range Speaker in door panel
Promaster Pic; this van turned out super nice. Build thread on PM Forum.
Thread Link (other forum sites great places to get other ideas and how to stuff, doesn't always have to be a Sprinter, they are all similar for the most part)
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50025
First step was to locate a low roof van, as you need to start with this to put a pop top on it. I don't like to use short wheelbase high roofs to sleep 4...way too tight and no room for your gear. They are much easier to convert and no hassle and costs of a pop top, but I think its a big compromise mainly because of money and time to put a top on. It is a super big pain to put a top on (time and money), but well worth it in the end and you add a lot of value. I decided to start with the Crew as this is the best arrangement if you are looking to do a weekender build as it already has a somewhat finished interior, includes factory seating, headliner, floor...later I may upgrade the seating but I wanted to show how simple it is to have a van that can transport family and have safe seating. If you take one of these, add a top and a rear bed...boom! Seating and sleeping for the whole family for under 15k! Tops are between 8-11k and a rear bed 2-4k (professional installation and fabrication). Of course a lot more can be added, but it isn't needed to convert a van to a camper for the entire family. You don't "need" solar, insulation, sound system, vented windows, captains chairs, heat.... The point is you don't have to do a 40-60k build to have a nice camper. Its kinda like remodeling your house...the sky is the limit.
Regarding seating why start with a crew or passenger van if you need to seat more than two? There isn't a cheap way to do safe seating correctly unless you start with factory option and if you are looking at "crash tested" seating this is the only way unless you invest into the expensive systems that have been tested and many of those are not very ideal or they are totally custom. Simple bolts and washer don't cut it if you are concerned with safety. The factory seating is by far the least expensive way to have seats and is crash tested and insurance is not an issue.
The thread will not cover to much the how too stuff step by step, many threads on this stuff but will touch on the process of the build.
First things first...give it some eye candy...gotta look good.
BFG's and Dip'd wheels. Could have powder coated the rims, but Dipping them is an easy DIY and you can change the color in the future. I have had very good experience with this process and if you use glossifier or other treatments it will not fade. This is flat black with glossifier on top of it.
Next was to start the insulation process and since I had the door panels out I figured it was time to upgrade the speakers and start the process of wiring up a fuse panel for accessories since I have everything opened up.
Insulation I use is the 3M product covering Raam Matt sound dampening. In addition I use MLV (mass loaded vinyl with open cell foam) over the wheel wells as well as key floor areas. I find this is the optimal bang for your buck materials that gives a very high end professional result and fairly easy to use. It isn't cheap and is time consuming to put in correctly, but the van ends up as quiet as the wife's Honda Pilot. Its important to use auto specific materials. You don't need to get all fancy...just use quality materials and the result will be excellent.
Door Panel-you cant use the 3M inside the door panels so it must be attached to the Panel itself rather than the door due to window clearance. The bottom of the door you can put insulation and sound mat just fine.
And while at it upgrade the speaker components...I am putting in component speakers in the front, coax speakers in rear, 5 channel amp,sound processor, and a 12 inch sub. Adapter must be used on the front door and some trimming is needed to clear the cone with the adapter ring I got from 3D impact products on ebay. Hein also sells the 3M stuff. They make some really nice products to make installs much easier and professional, well worth the money to make the job top notch. The system components for this run around $1k+lots of labor, dealer add for fading to rear, and some pins for the harness. Other threads cover this very well on the how to and stereo forums cover installation. The sound processor is needed so you can convert the factory stereo sound to a much better signal to your amp. This is a must if you want quality sound while keeping the factory head unit. The end result is amazing and you have stealth in what is a high end sound system. Amazing sound quality is not in your Sprinter! This is a major project and can take one to two days to complete if not longer depending on speakers and placement of them. Its for sure an advanced skill. I get my stuff from Crutchfield because then I know its under factory warranty. Their service and tech support is excellent so if you are DIYing a stereo I strongly recommend them just for the tech support; but you are going to pay a little more than finding the stuff from a grey market channel.
To do the electrical you do have to take your van apart a bit to run wires properly. In the front floor you can use the factory conduit to run your electrical cables from the upfitter connections from driver to passenger seat which is where I am installing all the electronics and fuse panel. Its a lot of stuff and I want it out of the way but also still have access through the side panel for maintenance.
Floor
6/5 inch mid range Speaker in door panel
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