is ducktape OK for now

[mickal2012]

Hi, sprinter 2500, 2006.

i got a lost of power this morning on the highway. i look at the pipe at the resonator and had some oïl on it. i take it out and clean it to see and no crack. look at the resonator, seem OK. i reconect the clip harder for no leak and try on highway.

the turbo gone and come back in a second and the check engine come on.

i go Under and see alot of oïl on the rubber hose that go to the intercooler. i take it out and clean and verify it, again no crack. reinstal it and screw the clip tite for no leak.

then i take out the hose that come from the manifold and see a tiny little crack Under it (no visible).

do you think all this together make the lost of power?

i put a photo of the hose to be sure it is the good one.

can i put some ducktape to close the little crak for now, need the van to go for a few days (750 KM trip )

thank's

 

[mendonsy]

It has been done before, but it is far from a permanent fix!
Be sure to do several wraps all the way around the split area. Don't expect it to last too long. The split will get bigger and the adhesive won't like the engine compartment heat.

 

[sebtown]

When my Intercooler hose split like this while on vacation last year I used duct tape and zip ties. Drove over 250 miles before I got home and replaced the hose.

 

[GaryJ]

You can also put some zip ties around the duct tape, or better yet use a stronger automotive rated repair tape.

Gary

 

[Gaspiper]

And No Ducks Were Harmed in this process

 

[hkpierce]

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49282&highlight=intercooler

 

[ECU]

When I replaced mine, it was a kit with both upper and lower hose and the plastic middle part I think.
The mechanic said I could "just replace the upper, That's what most people do."
The upper hose takes only a couple of minutes to replace.

I later replaced the lower. Last oil change, the mechanic said that I had a leak. I didn't tighten the lower enough.

 

[glasseye]

I just did mine due to similar symptoms. Easy replacement.
Silly to replace just one hose. If one died, the other will soon.
Europarts San Diego has the hose for about $100 US.
Auto parts stores might have high strength "gorilla tape".
There are metal tapes, too. The zip ties are an excellent idea.
Happy motoring.

 

[f5hunter]

Silicone rescue tape works well on turbo hoses. I ran several thousand miles on one with a 1 inch cut while waiting for the new hose to ship for my Jeep. You can get this tape at any auto store, walmart, home depot etc.

 

[mickal2012]

thank you for your help, since delay 1 day, the part was available and i change it.

everything seem to work OK.

but the engine check light is still on, does it will go off by itself or have to go to a
dealer to take it off.

 

[autostaretx]

Some things cause the engine check light to remain on until there have been three driving sessions without the problem.
The turbo issue usually clears up on the next "doesn't leak" start-up.

Get any *current* codes read before just clearing it...

--dick

 

[Speed Racer]

thank you for your help, since delay 1 day, the part was available and i change it.

everything seem to work OK.

but the engine check light is still on, does it will go off by itself or have to go to a
dealer to take it off.

My CEL went out 3 days after I replaced the cracked hose. Patience is a virtue. Or so I'm told.

 

[Gaspiper]

thank you for your help, since delay 1 day, the part was available and i change it.

everything seem to work OK.

but the engine check light is still on, does it will go off by itself or have to go to a
dealer to take it off.

Mickal, provided that you still have the security code for your OEM ( If still the original) stereo then you can disconnect the battery's negative lead wire , wait few seconds then re-attach it and that should take care of the "engine check light " !!! you will need to re-enter the security code back into the stereo for it to function again !If the light stays on for few days after then you might want to get it scanned to read the code.

 

[220629]

As long as everything is operating properly, running for a few days with the MIL aka CEL on will not hurt anything. If your personality is such that it can't be ignored, then a scan should give indication as to why the MIL aka CEL remains on. Otherwise, just be happy things are back on track and give it some time.

My CEL went out 3 days after I replaced the cracked hose. Patience is a virtue. Or so I'm told.

Patience is a virtue in this case.

Chances are good that the light will go out after the proper number of drive cycles. I've seen too many times where people futz around with things and cause problems when there were none just because they won't wait. Patience can pay. Mucking around can cost.

To each his own.

vic

 

[mickal2012]

light is off and everything is going fine,

thank's

 

[glasseye]

Interestingly, my recent ruptured charge air hose/boost failure/limp mode episode didn't light the check engine light on the dash. I was definitely in limp mode though. Zero boost according to my Ultraguage MAP readings.

 

[220629]

Interestingly, my recent ruptured charge air hose/boost failure/limp mode episode didn't light the check engine light on the dash. I was definitely in limp mode though. Zero boost according to my Ultraguage MAP readings.

That is not unusual. Maybe a simple boost leak doesn't fit the official OBD list/criteria of emissions related problems.

I wish that MB would provide an LHM dash indicator. If the computer knows enough to set LHM it should be smart enough to trigger a dash warning.

vic

 

[shortshort]

Depends on why it came on. If it was just for the split in the hose, it will go off.

 

[Speed Racer]

FWIT, I couldn't easily see any cracks in my hose until it was physically squeezed. Then, plenty of them showed up.