Fixing a broken plastic dash vent louver

Mine needed girlfriend proofing.

Not sure the stainless steel pins would have helped with that, but your solution sure beats the weak plastic pins we all got from MB. Somehow the other three dash vents have survived intact. No feet on the dash is key.

Thanks Kbonk.
 
You are welcomed to the center right dash vent pieces in the plastic dash surround, if there was any value to you. Or not.

Fool proof would be most welcomed. I am tempted to put a metal screen over that vent opening for the time being.

It is my bad for not preventing the damage again. Sometimes a woman can distract, and I was quite distracted enough to prevent the feet to damage once again on these too weak vent pieces.
 

Kbonk

Active member
UpDate 4/17/022: for those with no vents component's at all, I am in process of fine tuning the vertical linkage bar (this part allows all flaps to move as one) once I am happy with the part and manufacturing process you will be able to fully restore vent flappers, and action as designed but at a much more robust level structurally. FOOTPROOF & FOOLPROOF DM for Info
 

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Kbonk

Active member
UpDate 4/17/022: for those with no vents component's at all, I am in process of fine tuning the vertical linkage bar (this part allows all flaps to move as one) once I am happy with the part and manufacturing process you will be able to fully restore vent flappers, and action as designed but at a much more robust level structurally. FOOTPROOF & FOOLPROOF DM for Info
I wish I knew how many ppl need this linkage, I have to use a different manufacturing process thus investment on my part to supply. Comments welcome
 

TinManKC

“12 Reyo
So far I only have a few busted louvers, but have seen some vents needing the whole assembly, as you’re building. Seem one item that is needed is a drop in Lou er replacement for vents that have most/all Lou era missing.
 

Kbonk

Active member
So far I only have a few busted louvers, but have seen some vents needing the whole assembly, as you’re building. Seem one item that is needed is a drop in Lou er replacement for vents that have most/all Lou era missing.
I dont have the brain power to figure out the "drop in assembly", have been kicking it around. Thus why I did the next best thing Binford style lovers/flaps. they really are far superior to the all plastic originals, if every other one was replaced the vent could take a impact and keep on flapping
 

3Play

Well-known member
I was thinking about printing the Globr/Orb type directional nozzle, it would flow better and be somewhat easy to do.
Probably have to send it out for SLA to take the heat though....
 

Kbonk

Active member
yes I have flap, prototyping the vertical linkage now, send me photos of your vents and I can assess your options K
 

Kbonk

Active member
I was thinking about printing the Globr/Orb type directional nozzle, it would flow better and be somewhat easy to do.
Probably have to send it out for SLA to take the heat though....
Good luck with that, have scratched my head abt that, let me know what you come up with. Kurt
 

marklg

Well-known member
I was thinking about printing the Globr/Orb type directional nozzle, it would flow better and be somewhat easy to do.
Probably have to send it out for SLA to take the heat though....
Good luck with that, have scratched my head abt that, let me know what you come up with. Kurt
What are you making parts with? I've had good luck with Prusa Polycarbonate Blend on high heat locations. Knobs for our gas grill are great where PETG softened up. It's at the upper limit of what my Prusa Mini can do before the hot end PTFE tube shrinks and needs to be replaced.

Regards,

Mark
 

3Play

Well-known member
What are you making parts with? I've had good luck with Prusa Polycarbonate Blend on high heat locations. Knobs for our gas grill are great where PETG softened up. It's at the upper limit of what my Prusa Mini can do before the hot end PTFE tube shrinks and needs to be replaced.

Regards,

Mark
We used petg for some initial stuff, then shopped the production out to a SLA printer in N.Phx.
I haven't used the printer that much and rely on a friend who is a "Solidworks" guru to do the modeling...
When he is done with a current project I will sit down with him and do the modeling. it will take less than an hour.....
 

marklg

Well-known member
We used petg for some initial stuff, then shopped the production out to a SLA printer in N.Phx.
I haven't used the printer that much and rely on a friend who is a "Solidworks" guru to do the modeling...
When he is done with a current project I will sit down with him and do the modeling. it will take less than an hour.....
There are some high temperature SLA Resins and you can get shapes out of SLA that are challanging with FDM printing. So, if you already have that set up, I agree it is probably the best way to go. I have a copy of Soldworks, but am not expert in it. I am much more familiar with OpenSCAD. Others would have to determine if I've reached "guru" status.

Regards,

Mark
 

Kbonk

Active member
I modeled the louvers in SWKS, and have had no problems with the PLA, (factory is ABS). I am running some of the vertical linkages in resin now, no way to get the required resolution on some critical areas with Prusa in any type of material. No real need to over think the material even with greenhouse effects in a van, Plastic adjusts well to slow delta changes, evenly distributed once cured. The reinforcing I add might help IDK.
 

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