Repairing Shades and Screens

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GA Westy
When I repaired my shutters and screens, I didn't take pictures. Trieutran's westy is here today for the same problem so I will use this thread to post all the pictures.


Trieu already had the frame disassembled when he arrived so we just got down to business removing the upper and lower frame. You will need a Philips head for the frame and a small flat for the cable clamps.

Make sure you take pictures before the disassembly. It is helpful during reassembly.

There are 2 cables. They start on each corner of the frame and cross inside the shutter handle and then again inside the screen handle.
 

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GA Westy

The spline that secures the shade or shutter to the handle shrinks about 1/2" from either side and is now much shorter than the aluminum handle. The shade detaches from the handle near the ends and it causes the wrinkling of the material.
 

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GA Westy


I used acetone to clean the roller and the edge of the shade. 3M automotive trim tape can be used to re-adhere the shade to the roller.

Always use a rubber roller with double sided adhesives. Remove 1 side of the release liner, apply it over the shade roller. Then use the rubber roller to activate the tape.

Before you start with the shade fabric, line up the edge against the roller just to verify your start and end points. Once the fabric is on the tape, it can be hard to remove. Don't stretch the fabric. Use the rubber roller to ensure adhesion.
 

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GA Westy


I used 18AWG wire to replace the spline. The wire will not shrink and is easier to insert into the fabric. Allow 1" extra wire on either side. you can always cut to size later.

Always pay attention to the steel cables that criss cross inside the handles. If the ends go in the handle, it can be very hard to push it back out.

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GA Westy


Once all the pieces are back in, you are ready to tighten the cables. Keeping the frame square, increase the tension on the cable and then move the clamp and tighten it. You only need to adjust 1 clamp on each side. Not all 4 of them.

The corner of a ping pong table makes an excellent alignment surface.

Slide both shade and screen up and down to check. If handle does not align to the frame, you can pull on one end of the handle while holding on the other side.



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GA Westy


If you removed the rollers from the frame, the springs will unwind. The quickest way to rewind these is to use the endcaps of the roller casing. Once you get the correct tension, you can push the endcap to the casing and put one screw back in.

Correct tension checked by holding the frame vertical with shade side up. Then try lowering the shade. The shade should stay put and when you retract it quickly, the roller should take up the slack quickly. If the shade goes up on its own, there's too much tension. If the fabric wrinkles, it is not enough.

It is the same way with the screen but in the opposite direction.


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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Thanks! Great info.

Tip: When you reinstall frame, don't forget the circular rubber spacers on frame--otherwise, insufficient space between frame and van body/plastic trim and rollers won't work. The rubber spacers are self-adhesive and often fall off when removing frame.
 

512Westy

Member
If the only issue is with the spline shrinking and allowing the blind to curl up, does one need to undo the roller and then mess with the retuning of the spring? Or is it possible to insert the 18 awg wire into the spline slot without undoing the recoiling portion? Thanks for the clear tips!
 

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GA Westy
I think it is possible to replace it without unwinding the blinds. it does need to be disassembled from frame though.


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Adolphus

Member
Thank you for a great repair post. I disassembled one of my non operable shades (slider door), and found one plastic pulley missing and frayed cabling. Do you know a replacement source for these items? I'm also a little puzzled about how the cable routes. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks! I figured it would be best to start on a shade-only frame mechanism before attempting to tackle the shade/screen drivers side.

Vance
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
1. Manufacturer?

I'm going to guess that maybe the roller shade is made by Seitz (owned by Dometic). Do you see any names?

2. Parts

Hard to get parts but sometimes available on ebay (British) or British sources. May also check Dometic in USA.

If parts are interchangeable with the Dometic window blinds/shades, maybe US Dometic may be a source.

If you know what missing piece looks like, maybe find something similar or have one fabricated (Sprinter owners have apparently used a shower curtain roller for the front door windows mechanism rather than pay a couple hundred dollars for the assembly).

3. Diagrams

You probably already downloaded (a) Westfalia Repair Manuual and (b) Airstream Parts Manual (good for diagrams). Have not looked to see if any useful info.

4. Maybe Useful Links

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Hints-and-Tips/Seitz-blind-clip-repair-/30692/

https://www.caravan-parts.org/product.php/-seitz-window-repair-kit-for-s6-/?k=:::4552931

http://www.dreampod.net/boroma/dometic_windows.html

http://www.practicalcaravan.com/advice/31982-how-to-re-tension-caravan-roller-blinds-and-flyscreens

5. Please Share

How did you take apart sliding door shade, especially the door lock knob?

I have fraying wire guides too so generally skip using shade and put up Reflectix. The temp changes affect the roller shade (I think the shade gets stuck when things expand from the sun).
 
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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Side Notes:

Also, there is the tenth annual Westyfest over Labor Day Weekend in the Finger Lakes area of New York. Good place to share modifications.

One of the organizers from Hawaii had his sliding door shade fixed someplace, but I don't remember the details.

Believe your blue Westy had the original 12V AC rooftop unit changed years ago for an American 120V one (maybe prior owner posted under Blue Ox or something?).
 

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GA Westy
The cables start from upper corner, goes through pulley and shade handle, then immediately goes through screen handle before attaching to the bottom corner. It starts and ends on the same side. Both cables cross each other in the handle. There is a rubber retainer inside the handle that will make the cable difficult to thread so you have to poke that out and return it after you got the cables in.


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Adolphus

Member
Thanks! I was not aware of the rubber retainer...will look for it now. Still exploring cable/pulley sources, and sent an enquiry to airstream service center as well.
 

Adolphus

Member
I was able to locate a cable replacement for the frayed and broken original shade tensioners, and verified functionality by a sliding door shade frame rebuild. I used stainless steel fishing leader, "Malin-49 7x7 stainless cable .036 inch diameter," that I sourced from a local Bass Pro store. If you have lost one of the nylon pulleys, a suitable substitute can be made from 0.5 inch aluminum rod stock on a lathe. Of note, unlike the shade/screen combination frames, the shade only version's cable routing starts at the top, goes around the pulley and immediately through the handle and then over the opposite pulley and down the side frame where it terminates with a tensioning clamp after a quick turn. Hope this helps.
Vance
 

97Westy

New member
Might be a bit off-topic... but:
Is there a know source (Brand name, Manufacturer, etc.) for the actual material used for the shades?

A previous owner must have used something strange to try to clean one of the shades and it's kinda sticky, half melted and torn... :-(
I'll be happy to tackle its replacement... IF I could only find the right material...
cheers,
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
The James Cook Friends Forum has several threads on repair, including one thread with info on buying a certain brand window shade and using the material for the James Cook shades.

http://forum.james-cook-freunde.de/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3677&p=23355#p23355

Link to this product:

https://www.campingplus.de/Campingartikel/REMIS-Springrollo-REMIsun-creme-127-x-60-cm.html

127 X 60 CM
31,60 EUR UVP 35,90 EUR
incl. 19 % Mwst zzgl. Versandkosten (Paketdienst)

Lieferbar



2-4 Tage**


1

Remis
Art.Nr. 88545


0.0 von 5 Sternen
Sonnenschutz- und Verdunkelungsrollo aus feuchtigkeitsunempfindlichem, lichtundurchlässigem PVC-Material, daher ein absoluter Sicht- und Blendschutz. Das Rollo schützt im Sommer vor

Other thread on repair:

http://forum.james-cook-freunde.de/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3414

Please post whatever you find and do. Thanks.
 

Kiltym

'05 Westy


Always pay attention to the steel cables that criss cross inside the handles. If the ends go in the handle, it can be very hard to push it back out.
I lost a wire inside the handle today when adjusting the blinds.

It was not possible to "push" the wire back through. There is some type of foam insulation inside the handle probably to prevent the wires from rattling around.

I used some "seizing" wire. Thin, but more firm then the cable. Pushed it all the way through, and then pulled out the lost cable, attached to the wire, and pulled it back through. This worked very easy.
 

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