Noblemercedes warning: Change Turbo Inlet Seal every time disturbed

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Thanks goes to Noblemercedes. :thumbup::thumbup:

Official Information from Mercedes.

NCV3 OM642 V6 Engine

Mercedes Document said:
NOTE: The clean air line seal to the turbocharger must be replaced each time the connection is
released. Deformed or damaged boots must also be replaced.
The original thread is here.

Turbo inlet seal bulletin

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48553

View attachment 906intake seal bulletin.pdf

vic

A MB tip for proper installation. Thanks goes to Mikeme.

"the seal needs to be worked into place into the female plastic part"

This, I think was the source of my problem. [Seal dislodged and damaged turbo.]

I got my hands on some (probably bootleg) MB tech data, and there is a note:

The sealing ring must be inserted into the air intake hose first, to ensure that the sealing ring is not crushed. Parts of the crushed sealing ring may otherwise be sucked into the compressor wheel of the turbocharger severely damaged.​
The raw text from the PDF above.

"Date: April 6, 2013
Order No.: V-B-09.00/01
Supersedes:
Group: 09
SUBJECT: MY-All, Model 906 with Engine 642
Operations in Clean Air Line Area
When working around or in the clean air line area, or when replacing it, the seals and boots for the
clean air line must be checked for damage or incorrect mounting.
Damaged mounting can lead to:
• Engine diagnosis warning lamp lights up
• Engine has low output, switches to limp-home, emits blue smoke
• Damage to turbocharger
• Engine damage

NOTE: The clean air line seal to the turbocharger must be replaced each time the connection is
released. Deformed or damaged boots must also be replaced.
Incorrect mounting will result in complaints about engine running characteristics.
Under certain circumstances, damaged or deformed seals on the clean air line can allow dirt and
foreign matter in and damage the engine.
The specified torque of 3Nm for mounting the clean air line to the compressor section of the
turbocharger must be followed. In the event of a complaint, check the seals and boots of the clean
air line for correct seating and signs of damage. Always document these instances with pictures.
Warranty and goodwill claims for engine damage that has been caused by incorrect mounting of
the clean air line, will be rejected.
When working on a vehicle where the clean air line/air filter box needs to be moved, do not rotate
the clean air assembly while affixed to the turbocharge. This will damage the seal on the
turbocharger. Ensure that the clean air assembly is removed completely."
This bulletin has been created and maintained in accordance with MBUSA-SLP S423QH001, Document and Data Control, and
MBUSA-SLP S424HH001, Control of Quality Records
 
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Tooth Fairy

Away with the fairies.
Really sad when you get this important info here rather then from the source..
Yes and no, at least you get it, not like the olden days before the internet...... :cheers:
 

Tooth Fairy

Away with the fairies.
Be careful to use the correct seal, see below:

This seal is orange in color and was used from 2007 to approximately 7/30/2010 It is designed to be used in the plastic intake hoses labeled 906 528 02 24 and 906 528 15 24. The black seal shown below is for 7/31/2010 and ONLY fits later hoses which are labeled 906 528 22 24.
 

BobLLL

Member
The 7/2010 change date published by MB is not entirely accurate. My 2011 model was built in 10/2010 and has the 906 528 15 24 hose and the orange seal. I tried one of the newer black seals, and sure enough, it did not fit well in the intake hose. So, the safest thing is to match the seal to the intake hose number, at least if you have a 2010 or 2011.

Also, I bought a small bicycle-style torque wrench so I could apply exactly the specified torque of 3Nm to the hose clamp on the turbo seal. That turned out to be a lot tighter than I expected it to be.

I am being especially careful about this turbo seal thing, because the intake hose came loose from the turbo about 3,000 miles after the first time the fuel filter was changed, by a MB dealer, at my first 10k service. Fortunately there was no damage to turbo. The seal looked fine, too. The van just suddenly lost power.

That tech was the only person to have touched anything under the hood before this happened (other than me checking the oil), so he must not have installed or tightened the seal correctly after the filter change. So, if a tech didn't get it right, it seems like we all need to be careful.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
This comment led us away from the Sticky Topic.
...

That tech was the only person to have touched anything under the hood before this happened (other than me checking the oil), so he must not have installed or tightened the seal correctly after the filter change. So, if a tech didn't get it right, it seems like we all need to be careful.

Go here for the comments.
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=504488

Back to topic.

vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Not my intention.
No problem at all. The board just took it and began to run with it. Kinda like hooking a Tarpon in the Keys. You toss out the line and it goes where it will.

A bit of meandering is fine, but it looked to me like it could veer off for too long and this is an important sticky.

Keep involved. Your reply was fine. :thumbup:

:cheers: vic
 

CJPJ

2008 3500 170"ext. 3.0 V6 OM642.993
Eight plus years on the original OEM Orange silicone turbo inlet seal. I'll occasionally test its seal by putting my hand on the U-shaped inlet tube; it feels firm and thumps like a ripe melon.

In my case the Nobemercedes warning is not applied
:2cents:
 
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smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
I personally would consider it acceptable to inspect the seal and re-use it if it is in perfect condition. I think the 'always replace' advice may be more appropriate for a commercial environment where at under 20 bucks it's easier/quicker to replace than mess with inspection, plus the customer pays for it anyway so why accept even minimal liability.
 

Jbernielh

Member
I tried everything, and could not get the main air inlet pipe (black plastic material) to stay attached to the orange silicon adapter at the turbo.. clean it, dry it, and clamp it.. look under the hood a couple hundred miles later and the black inlet tube had slipped off and the turbo was sucking unfiltered air..
finally used a PRC aircraft product we use on fuel and oil applications and glued the damn orange sleeve into the black tube and problem solved.. 5K miles later and still attached..

Bernie
 

mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6
Has anyone put together a good, complete, diy for the fuel filter change which would include the 2015 Sprinter V6, including replacement of this seal?
 

HappyFamilyVan

Captain Ahab
OK, call me dense but I may be missing something. I have been changing my fuel filter myself every 10K miles for the last 150k.
The way I learned how to change the filter was on this site. Step 1 was always to disconnect the hose going to the air filter box first, then remove the box, then remove the cover over the fuel filter and other things. The intake hose is never really moved, so how does it deform the seal going to the turbo? And should I be replacing the seal with each fuel filter change?

Thanks,
Happy
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
OK, call me dense but I may be missing something. I have been changing my fuel filter myself every 10K miles for the last 150k.
The way I learned how to change the filter was on this site. Step 1 was always to disconnect the hose going to the air filter box first, then remove the box, then remove the cover over the fuel filter and other things. The intake hose is never really moved, so how does it deform the seal going to the turbo? And should I be replacing the seal with each fuel filter change?
There is no need to remove the turbo intake hose to replace the fuel filter, and thus no need to replace the seal.
 

CJPJ

2008 3500 170"ext. 3.0 V6 OM642.993
^Yes
The intake hose is never really moved, so how does it deform the seal going to the turbo? And should I be replacing the seal with each fuel filter change?
Just to refresh: the warning states; Change Turbo Seal Every Time Inlet Seal Is Disturbed
 

mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6
I am pretty new, and mostly just want to do right by my 2015 3500 3.0 liter engine. just coming up on 20k and the first fuel filter change.

it seems like there may be a couple different MB design changes over the years which change where the fuel filter is located (relative to the air intake to the turbo)

the one on mine looks very close to that intake hose.

I have been ordering parts for a couple weeks. first the fuel filter, then some specialized pliers for the oem fuel hose clamps, and now an intake hose seal.

when I have all the parts, and a little time, will report if, indeed, I need to disturb the intake hose to turbo connection to replace the fuel filter.

(further advice welcome)
 

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