Aqua Puttana's Cheap Tricks - Nothin' Fancy Here

[220629]

U.S. Airstream Sprinter Westfalia roof A/C air conditioner checks

This test/check procedure was provided for the Westfalia roof A/C units, but the units may be installed on other vehicles also. It is very well done and may save a trip to the shop which makes it a Cheap Trick.Thanks goes to Zach Woods.

The original thread is here:

A/C problem
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=99070

Text:
***
Hello tarpondale -

Do you have a European James Cook or a U.S. Airstream Sprinter Westfalia?

Assuming you have a U.S. Airstream Sprinter Westfalia, you should try the following:

1. Plug in to shore power, try the A/C. If it is working, you may have a problem with your Kisseling relay.

2. Check all of the circuit breakers in the lowest cabinet below the stove in the kitchen. Are any tripped? Either way, plug in to shore power, turn all the circuit breakers "off", and then turn them back on again. If the A/C is now working a tripped circuit breaker was likely the issue.

3. With an assistant, drive the Westy on the highway at 55 mph. After you have been up to speed for a minute or so, try the A/C (it is designed to run on 12V from the engine also). If it is working, this again may suggest a Kisseling relay problem.

4. Start up the generator and allow it to run for 2 minutes. Try the A/C. If the A/C is working, this may again suggest a Kisseling relay problem.

5. Try running just the fans in the A/C while plugged in to shore power. Assuming you have the original A/C controls, turn the control knob on the A/C all the way to it's lowest setting and then keep turning until it meets minor resistance and then clicks into a position that will not run the A/C but will run the blower fan (for bringing fresh air into the RV). If the blower fan runs OK, you may have problems in the A/C itself and not just in the wiring to the A/C. If the blower fan does not run (and you have followed all of the above diagnostic suggestions), you likely have a problem with power getting to the A/C unit.

6. What exactly happened when you tried to turn on your A/C? Were you either plugged in to shore power, or running the generator, or driving the vehicle at highway speeds? What sounds did the A/C make when you turned it on and it quit running?

7. When you plug in to shore power, do you hear the cooling fan in the passenger side rear corner of the vehicle?

The Westy A/C is very different from typical U.S. RV systems. It is intended to run off of 12V power (but will not run off the batteries). You can run it off of shore power, the generator, or the engine alternator when the engine has been running for a short amount of time and the alternator is producing a level and solid output. In the case of the Westy roof mounted A/C, the main power does come from 12V.

There is actually a black box (cooled by the blower fan) located in the rear passenger corner storage area, under the water heater. That black box will take the 120V from shore power or the generator and convert it to the 12V that the A/C unit needs. There is a relay in that black box (the Kisseling relay - I may have that spelled wrong) that sometimes will not switch from the 12V to the 120V setting. Others have had problems with the wiring in this black box being either loose or the connections being corroded or worse.

Let us know what you find out with the above tests,

Zach
***

vic

 

[220629]

ABS ESP Traction Lights On Brake Light Fuse (#5?) Blown Shift Locked

20151130, 20160928. 20190330 edit: As of today... 8+ years now, what some may consider a temporary repair with inserting the insulation material in the light assembly is still going strong. I'm thinking that the repair is quite permanent for me.
*********************************

Yesterday my ABS, ESP and Traction (tire slipping symbol) lights came on. The van seemed fine except for the array of annoying lights on the dash. One caution I would give is that if those lights do come on you need to verify whether your brake lights are still working. Mine weren't and I didn't know ( or remember?) I needed to check the brake light operation. Therefore I didn't check the fuse immediately as I should have. (Fuse #5 under the steering column in my 2004 by the way.) Your cruise control will also not function. This is a Cheap Trick because I don't believe it is necessary to replace the tail light assembly to cure this particular shorting problem.

20201012 Added: Tail light Information

Tail light Repairs or Replacement

Tail light, taillight, brake light, rear light circuit, rear lamp, running light Have more information? Feel free to add to this Write-up. Have Questions? Please take questions to a new thread or tag on to another appropriate thread. A quick search didn't reveal a Write-up thread specific to...

sprinter-source.com

20100715 edit: I forgot to add that if the lights above come on the shifter will lock in Park. You will need to carefully use a small screwdriver or pencil pushed down through the little cover door below the "D" on the shifter to manually release the shift lever for Reverse-Neutral-Drive. Once the shifter is returned to Park it will need to be released manually again.

Revelation:
Your ignition key will work perfectly to release the shift lock. It is just long enough.

My method.
Use the ignition key to release the shift lever. Shift to neutral. Start the van and drive.

Revelations cease here.


I've read about people having trouble with the tail light traces. The traces are a galvanized metal array of conductors used in the rear light assembly to distribute power to all the tail lamps. They look too well designed to go bad. Well, the traces themselves don't go bad, but the other connections nearby may. There are two points on my 2004 NAFTA TIN dual filament tail/stop lamps which are close to the negative trace. In my case it was the right rear connector to the stop lamp pin which moved in and shorted the brake circuit to the negative (ground) trace. The metal end of the "stop" trace is pushed into that connection. The connection may have gotten hot and loosened the plastic holders? My inserted insulation in the form of nylon cable tie material trimmed to fit pushes that connection tight again. (At least that's the theory. I'll need to watch that it doesn't loosen and fail again.) In a pinch some slivers of whittled wood would also work fine as spacers/insulators.

This is where to look for the problems.



Both my photography and edit skills are marginal at best. The text above reads "Insulation Inserted In Two Places".

This is a picture of the entire parking light assembly traces.



I used paint sticks to color code the traces for another earlier troubleshooting session. It made it easier for me to follow what was going to where. I inserted insulation to all of my stop lamp potential problem areas (both sides = 4 total) to help avoid any future problems.

The colors I used on the traces were what I had that weren't dried up. The color scheme isn't logical. Yellow = tail lights. Red = stop light. Green = amber lens turn signal.

You may have noticed that I used some dabs of Goop glue to secure the plastic tie pieces in place even though they were tightly inserted. (You would notice that for sure if the picture was better.)

Too many fuses later after I finally successfully traced (pun intended) and repaired the problem, I figured I'd need my DAD to reset the codes for all the warning lights to go out. Fortunately I was also working on my steering column fuse block so I discovered that all you need to do is remove the added fuse block attached to the positive post for a minute or so. (Or disconnect the battery negative.) When it is reconnected the ABS, ESP, and Traction lights should all act normally, of course your radio and other toys may then need reprogramming too. The trouble codes remain in memory though.

Have fun. vic

A different failure mode on the 2006.

When my 2006 brake lights both failed I suspect that it didn't happen simultaneously. They both had similar corrosion on the spring/force fit interface between the steel trace and the socket brake filament/lamp connection (within the tail lamp assembly, not the external connector). One area probably corroded first going unnoticed and was followed some time later by the other failing.

My repair was to slip a hairpin of thin stiff wire - I used nickel wire approx. 20 AWG - into the compromised connection. That has been a permanent repair. I recommend that all T1N owners periodically spritz the tail lamp electrical parts with WD40. That should hold corrosion at bay. It is all covered in the link that I posted above.

Rear Lamp Socket Assemblies
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=493351

View attachment 110348

vic

20101006 edit:

There is more information related to troubleshooting the brake light system in this post starting about post #6. Thanks goes to all contributors.

Electrical issues - brake lights, cruise, ASR
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12715

Edit: Added misc info.

Another shift lock possibility with no ABS, Traction or other dash lights though.

I have had to replace 2 brake light switches on my 2005 for this same problem.

A different but similar problem: does the display tell you the transmission is in park?
If not, I just had and intermittent problem with mine doing the same thing and it turned out to be the transmission relay.
Dr. A gave me some starting places to do some testing of circuits and I stumbled upon the relay by accident.
It is the blue relay under the drivers seat at the front of the pedestal. When the trans wouldn't go into gear, I flicked
the relay with my finger and away she went. I do have to mention though that the display wasn't telling me which gear the
transmission was in when my problems occurred. After messing with the relay the display would work. Replaced the 15.00 relay
and now all is OK.

Some general info on wire colors for the rear lights.

Wiring I found:
Tail/Park: L = Gray/Blk, R = Gray/Red
Stop: L = Blk/Red, R = Blk/Red
Backup: L = Wht/Red, R = Wht/Red
Turn: L = Blk/Wht, R = Blk/Grn

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25838#post25838

 

[220629]

Viscous Fan Clutch Replacment

Remove, pull, replace, install, belt driven fan.

This is some information about R&R of the fan clutch. There are also some cheaper parts and specs mentioned. Thanks goes to cahaak - Chris, and Max for suggesting I include it here.

Viscous Fan Clutch Replacment
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=102793#post102793

vic

 

[shortshort]

Here's my cheap trick: If you glue a piece of neoprene (wetsuit material) under the left spoke of the steering wheel it's easier to steer with your knee. Now I can text without putting down my beer.

 

[220629]

I disagree! This is Cheap Tricks afterall. Wetsuits are not cheap nor is a texting plan, although beer can be. Maybe a strip of leftover self adhesive window seal strip????

Great idea. vic

Here's my cheap trick: If you glue a piece of neoprene (wetsuit material) under the left spoke of the steering wheel it's easier to steer with your knee. Now I can text without putting down my beer.

 

[KL2BE]

Here's my cheap trick: If you glue a piece of neoprene (wetsuit material) under the left spoke of the steering wheel it's easier to steer with your knee. Now I can text without putting down my beer.

This needs it's own thread...with pictures .

 

[shortshort]

After looking at pivoting sun visor options for a while and tiring of rolling a sheet of plans up in the window (now that WAS cheap), I broke down and bought some "limo" tint (really dark) window film. I used it to cover the top 8" or so of the moving and fixed windows on the drivers side (only drivers half to keep it cheap). Zero light leaks, greater coverage, and no need to reposition the visor constantly on a curvy road so functionally is far superior to a pivoting visor, and it's cheaper and easier to install. I gauged the amount needed by keeping it high enough to not obstruct my view of the mirrror (both standard and parabolic). So far no complaints from the law enforcement community. Sorry if this is a repost, but I replaced the stuff today (I used the removable static cling stuff) and thought I'd share.

 

[teamtexas]

How about a pic shortshort?

Dan

 

[shortshort]

Film at 11?

 

[bucktour]

Even cheaper... remove headrest and put on big brim cowboy hat. More money for cheap beer and Johnny Law just waves at 'cha!

 

[220629]

Power Steering Pump Check

replace bad noise test

There is a relatively easy and quick check to help determine if you need to go further in testing or replacing your power steering pump. Thanks goes to Eric Experience.

"Nate.
The bearings in the pump are unlikely to be making the noise. The sound you describe is more like the vanes in the rotor moving in their slots. To determine if the pump is worn take off the reservior and wash out the filter (bold is mine - vic) in the reservior with diesel, if you get out any metal particles larger than pepper consider a new pump, if the pump is producing particles they could damage the rack. Eric."

Noise from Power Steering Pump
The original thread is here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12919

vic

 

[220629]

Cheaper Key for T1N Doors MB17, etc.

(Also one NCV3 door key number below.)

I did a "ctrl F" search (page find) and apparently I haven't added this to Cheap Tricks or even Stoopid Things yet.

2011/10/24 Edit: Today I spoke with the locksmith who cut me the ML YM19 door keys. He has no more YM19 blanks or any of the others on the list in stock. He said they are older key blanks. To top it off most of the key blank manufacturers are being bought out by ILCO who takes their stock and reduces the line. The locksmith found me some ILCO MB17 blanks, but needs to buy a minimum lot/bag of 10 ea. at $5.00 per blank. If you find a locksmith with the blanks you need it might be worthwhile to have a couple extra door keys made if the price is good.

A little background.
For extra security Sprinter OEM keys have a chip built into the bow (handle or head) plastic which is detected by the SKREEM unit via an antenna built into the ignition key assembly. On a T1N if the chip isn't detected the key will turn, but the engine won't start and a "Start Error" will indicate on the dash. (On NCV3 models it's even more complex and the key will not even turn. Some have indicated the lock will actually eject an unrecognized key.) For a key to work both the ignition and doors it needs to contain a programmed chip. They can be fairly (very) expensive.

There are less expensive key blanks available to fit just the door locks, but they are not commonly found in hardware stores or typical home stores. Some locksmiths don't even carry them.

A recent thread/post listed some key blanks which should work for the doors only. A properly cut ILCO MB-17 blank works for certain. I have a DL YM19 key which a locksmitth cut and works fine on my 2004 doors. I can't speak for the other blanks listed here.

The list:

(Thanks goes to Autostaretx)

A nice feature of that site is their list of MB-17 equilavents:
o Curtis MB37
o Dominion (DL) YM19
o ESP MB17
o Ilco MB17 (Key handle size needs to be reduced to extend key length.)
o JMA ME-HM
o Silca YM15
o Taylor M81X

**************

Here’s key that our locksmith used. It’s good for the 2003-2006 Sprinters and yes the key is brass. It works in all the doors and ignition.

Dodge Sprinter YS15TK1 Pre-Cloned Transponder Key

https://www.americankeysupply.com/p...k1-pre-cloned-transponder-key-bluerocket-2943

***********

Some additional info from another site.

Reference 1
IC Card 152 (RFID clone reference?)
Silca Card 15 (RFID clone reference?)
Silca Key Blank YM15
ILCA key Blank MB17
Keyline Key Blank YS15
JMA Key Blank ME-HM

YM15T5-SI Silca Transponder Key
**************

Edit: It was suggested that a MB19 fits and is long enough to insert into the ignition without modification. I have no verification on this suggestion, but probably worth checking.

--dick
***

A door key without a chip can start a Sprinter if it will insert into the ignition far enough and a chip is in close proximity to the SKREEM antenna. Some have reported taping the bow of a broken OEM key up under the dash to allow an unchipped key to work. I haven't tried this yet. 2011/10/21 edit: My experience with a broken key is that the chip needs be very close to the antenna, not just somewhere around it. - If you look closely at the key you will see a small gray insert in the black plastic. (Thanks for that info Nebep ) That is the chip. It can be carefully pried out and then that tiny piece may be more easily taped near the SKREEM antenna.

The recent thread is here:

Tried to get a spare door-only key cut...
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10471

vic

2011/10/18 edit: A method for attaching your door key to the OEM black plastic is in post #158

Redneck Sprinter Chipped Key
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=155692#post155692



20130330 edit: A NCV3 door key. Thanks goes to Lockrob.

You can have it cut [for NCV3] at a locksmith that has the capabilities on a mb64 blank.
That will work the door.

 

[K-9 SPRINTER]

Cheaper Key for T1N Doors MB17, etc.

I did a "ctrl F" search (page find) and apparently I haven't added this to Cheap Tricks or even Stoopid Things yet.

A little background.
For extra security Sprinter OEM keys have a chip built into the bow (handle or head) plastic which is detected by the SKREEM unit via an antenna built into the ignition key assembly. On a T1N if the chip isn't detected the key will turn, but the engine won't start and a "Start Error" will indicate on the dash. (On NCV3 models it's even more complex and the key will not even turn. Some have indicated the lock will actually eject an unrecognized key.) For a key to work both the ignition and doors it needs to contain a programmed chip. They can be fairly (very) expensive.

There are less expensive key blanks available to fit just the door locks, but they are not commonly found in hardware stores or typical home stores. Some locksmiths don't even carry them.

A recent thread/post listed some key blanks which should work for the doors only. A properly cut ILCO MB-17 blank works for certain. I have a DL YM19 key which a locksmitth cut and works fine on my 2004 doors. I can't speak for the other blanks listed here.

The list:

(Thanks goes to Autostaretx)

A nice feature of that site is their list of MB-17 equilavents:
o Curtis MB37
o Dominion YM19
o ESP MB17
o Ilco MB17
o JMA ME-HM
o Silca YM15
o Taylor M81X

--dick
***

A door key without a chip can start a Sprinter if it will insert into the ignition far enough and a chip is in close proximity to the SKREEM antenna. Some have reported taping the bow of a broken OEM key up under the dash to allow an unchipped key to work. I haven't tried this yet, but it you look closely at the key you will see a small gray insert in the black plastic. (Thanks for that info Nebep ) That is the chip. It can be carefully pried out and then that tiny piece may be more easily taped near the SKREEM antenna.

The recent thread is here:

Tried to get a spare door-only key cut...
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10471

vic

That is what they wanted to do (with a new key)for my dog alert alarm (auto starts the engine to run AC when it gets to hot inside)........ bad thing about doing that, now it can be hotwired and stolen easier!!!!! I wouldnt do it

 

[220629]

...
bad thing about doing that, now it can be hotwired and stolen easier!!!!! I wouldnt do it

Altough what you say is true, if you somehow trick the chip recognition nobody needs to know a chipped key isn't needed and will therefore assume it is. Given that fact, the reduction of security is minimal unless you tell the ne'er-do-wells you did it. An added thing is that NAFTA Sprinters are not that plentiful so at this time stealing the entire vehicle to strip it down for parts is not likely. My opinions only. vic

 

[autostaretx]

If the engine is already running (to power the air conditioner), all the ne'er-do-wells have to do is open the door and drive off...
(ignoring the sounds of the "cargo").


--dick

 

[K-9 SPRINTER]

If the engine is already running (to power the air conditioner), all the ne'er-do-wells have to do is open the door and drive off...
(ignoring the sounds of the "cargo").
View attachment 27506

--dick

They would be in for a surprize when they opened the door (theres is always 1 guy loose inside )She aint smiling at the camera

 

[rb3232]

They would be in for a surprize when they opened the door (theres is always 1 guy loose inside )She aint smiling at the camera

That is not a cheap trick...

 

[220629]

Sprinter Maintenance Videos
The farewell link.

Autostaretx (Dick) posted this video link so thanks goes to him. On the right side of the page you'll find some well done videos which the originator has posted over time. I think Max has posted some of these videos in the past as well. It can't hurt to highlight them again. I find them very informative and interesting. vic

Mercedes Sprinter - Goodbye old friend
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDgl47f8vDo

Here is the link to the page 'cause just the video pops up in this post so you may lose the right side suggestions.

http :// www youtube com /watch?v=CDgl47f8vDo

Remove the spaces and insert the dots.

 

[autostaretx]

I think Max has posted some of these videos in the past as well.

Credit where it's due: i think i found that video by following one of Max's links to a "how to reset your ASSYST" video.

'cause just the video pops up in this post

The way to find related videos to these "embedded" videos is to simply click on the video itself.
That will take you to YouTube, with all the dressings.

On the right side of the page you'll find some well done videos which the originator has posted over time.

And, once you're at YouTube, look just above the main video, and you'll see a small "drop down" box telling how many videos this author has posted. Click *that* and you'll be able to access all of them.
The list on the right margin are "related" videos (based upon keywords and tags). Those will list other posters' videos, too.

Oh... and lest you fear that Beovin1970 is now condemned to walking:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8Zf1BG5hmI
(hmmm... i hadn't realized that posting the link automagically did the embedding)

have fun
--dick (occasionally "wastes" many hours chasing related videos...)

 

[hkpierce]

Older cheap socket sets have plastic inserts to hold the sockets, et al. that disintegrate. l had all my pieces to the set (plus more) and I did not want to purchase another cheap set. So I hot-glued scrap stryofoam to the box to hold the pieces. What is neat about stryofoam is that it has some rebound resiliency which help hold the pieces in place, and, using an electric soldering iron, it is easy to create form-fitting positions.