Aqua Puttana's Cheap Tricks - Nothin' Fancy Here

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Heater Knob Air Control Stuck Binding

A recent question brought back this repair thread for the heater and air conditioning air vent control knob. The thread highlights a few repair methods. The cheap trick is to avoid breaking parts by spraying some lube into the area if you notice the knob is getting tight or difficult to turn.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2058

Thanks goes to all contributors. AP/vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Engine Air Filter Selection

This is not really a Cheap Trick as such, but any resulting discussion may help you decide whether the more expensive "long life" engine air filter is really needed for your T1N.

"Long life" air filter vs standard
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8122

AP/vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Repair sliding door inside handle not working

I'm honored to post my first Doktor A Cheap Trick. I hope he feels the same.

If the inside door latch on your sliding door isn't working, but everything else seems normal there's a cheap fix (You need a welder for the deluxe repair.).

Thanks goes to Andy Bittenbinder.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8321

And coincidentally posted in the same time frame thanks to Max here's how to get the handle off without breaking things.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8284

AP/vic

20121231 Edit: Anyhow, interior handle part number: Dodge 5132049aa , MB 9017601361 about $25. (Thanks goes to Colorado Al.) Not a big job to install.

A recent thread is here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24222

2011/09/28 edit:
Surlyoldbill has another DIY fix he used which I would use. Thanks Bill.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16718

20100411 2 each Edits:
1st Edit.

I thought about the weld reinforcing. I don't have access to a welder. I'm certain others may be in the same boat. I present this method without having ever seen the bent door latch parts. I think another method of reinforcement without welding may be to sister a piece of metal to the weak part using JB Weld, Marine Tex, or some other thick epoxy repair putty. It may save needing to find a welder.

2nd Edit.

The side door may stick closed from the gasket freezing. Don't pull the interior handle hard and bend the parts. Silicone grease (spray?) on the gasket worked for me.
****
FWIW. I wouldn't discount the gasket freezing too quickly. This year my side door gasket is freezing and sticking the door shut. I have had no problems with the other doors. I have not put anything on my gaskets as yet. The side door only freezing could be related to the door style, larger surface area of the gasket, and/or lack of leverage with the side door handle position. I just dragged out some silicone grease that was used to coat high voltage insulators back in the day. I'm going to try that on the door gasket. That should do the trick.:hmmm: AP/vic
FWIW. Since this thread has returned. Update After I used the silicone on my side door gaskets I had no more problems with the side door sticking. We had enough freezing weather that the problem should have shown itself if the silicone didn't do the job. vic
****
Single post here: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=89815#post89815
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Heater and A/C Fan (Resistor) Only Works on High Speed
99% of the time it is the heater speed control resistor.

The reason I include this here as a Cheap Trick is that generally there is a relatively easy/inexpensive repair for your fan working on high only. Someone not armed with the knowledge you will get here may spend much more time and money before coming to the root cause of the problem.

The fan only working on high speed is most always the fan speed resistor being bad on NAFTA T1N Sprinters (North America). It is a simple enough job which takes about 10 minutes. The cost of the part was about $40.00 at this writing. My method of replacement is in this post #11:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=38080#post38080

"Help no heat" thread. Hope this does some good. AP/vic

2011/01/25 edit. It's located right by the fan in the duct. Here's a picture courtesy of new-york2004.

FanResistorLocation.jpg

Here's the text from the page 11 link above.

***

I just got my 5133432-AA Resistor 8035022 ( perhaps MB part number is #08035022?) for about $35.00.

After reviewing the outline above by gggGary from Wisconsin I went out to change the part. Found the wires and all as he said. I was having a deuce of a time getting my fat fingers in to release the plug when the unit suddenly shifted to my left and became loose. I carefully pulled the still connected resistor assembly out of position and out into the open. There was enough wire that I could now get my fat fingers on the connector and release it no problem. I installed the connector on the resistor assembly, pushed the wires back a bit, put the resistor back into place and then shoved it over to my right to lock it into place. All done in about 5 minutes. I now have fan speeds.

My failed resistor unit shows many cracks in the ceramic. I suspect it has corroded wires similar to the one that was dissected in the previous reply. For as easy as it is to change out I'll not be bothering to do much investigating. Hope this helps. vic
****

This is a poor picture of the actual resistor.

HtrResSink.jpg

The wire wrapped around mine is an experiment to improve cooling and hopefully stop the cracking. I think one of the toughest conditions for the resistor is being on a low setting in the hot weather. The cooling air flow over the resistor is then reduced when it is probably needed the most.

20160709 edit:

Why the Fan Runs on High Only

Schematic

8w42-06wNotesFanResistorBlue.jpg

No Fan at all Possibility

8W42-07wNotesA.jpg

20120607 edit: Apparently some early model Sprinters have a different resistor configuration. Thanks goes to JSMI for that info. Some detail is here.

blower motor resistor block in 2002
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21223
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
EGR Cleaning Procedure PDF and much more

Thanks goes to HK Pierce for yet another great paper.

This only applies to NAS aka NAFTA pre-2004 model Sprinters. I have not performed the task (I have a 2004), but it seems fairly DIY friendly.
(2004 models and beyond have a different design EGR which also has a cleaning cycle included after engine shutdown. Those units do not require periodic cleaning. That said, cleaning may help to restore proper valve snap back if faulty EGR related symptoms are indicated.)
The link is here:

http://piercehome.us/Sprinter/EGRpostings.pdf

20120603 edit: A recent thread which indicates DIY cleaning of the newer style valves is worth trying. Thanks goes to T.J.T.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20517

A bit more EGR info by Doktor A Andy is here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44297&postcount=8

A recent thread is here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8477

Check out HK pierce's other stuff on his home page here:

http://piercehome.us/

AP/vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Use oil cap to replace fuel cap

Another cheap trick shamelessly stolen hot off the presses from Yahoo Sprintervan. Thanks to Mike "hannanart2002" and the Yahoo Sprintervan forum.

Mike writes,
Fellow SPRINTERians-

I have now driven several thousand miles with my oil filler cap on the fuel tank
and my fuel filler cap on the oil filling opening, without issue. I did this
because I was having to replace my fuel cap fairly regularly because of rust on
the cap. I noticed that the oil filler cap interior was plastic except for the
"ears" which engage the locking mechanism and they appeared to be similar in
size so I tried them and they each worked perfectly in the others place. I
asked Doktor A if there might be venting issues and he said the fuel tank was
not vented. Besides the rust issue there is the price of each - the fuel cap is
about 3 times the cost of the oil cap - $15 versus $5.

So there you are, as promised, an update. If I ever have to replace one or the
other, I'll spend the $5 for the oil cap and forget about another fuel cap.

Happy SPRINTERing-

Mike H
hannanart2002

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sprintervan/message/53893

2010/05/12 edit:
Neither cap is vented. To the best of my knowledge both the fuel tank and the engine are vented by emissions control devices that don't involve the cap.

FWIW. I don't think you can expect a dealership to do this for you as there may be a safety design issue with using other than the OEM metal cap on the fuel tank, but I haven't researched it. That said, I know that the fuel tank itself is plastic....you never know with vehicle DOT requirements whether you need to stick with OEM. Certainly nothing stops you from making the DIY exchange.

AP/vic
 
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maxextz

Rollin Rollin Rollin.....
nice one vic:thumbup: i like this"the fuel cap is about 3 times the cost of the oil cap - $15 versus $5".hmm i wonder why:hmmm:
lets hope no dealers are reading this:shhh:

its a problem with the caps rusting it must be the quality of metals used although theres one exception and thats our richards fuel cap the thing looks brand new:wtf:
good idea that vic.
max.......:hmmm:
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Heater Pump ESPAR Replace Brushes


The circulation pump for the auxiliary or the booster diesel fired heater is known to fail because the brushes wear out or hang up. The circulation pump needs to establish coolant flow through the heater for the heater to fire when the engine isn't running. The brushes can be replaced DIY. rbjenterprises posted this on the Yahoo Sprintervan forum. Thanks goes to rbjenterprises for the follow-up post and to Yahoo Sprintervan.
***
20101102 edit:

More info about the pump and brush replacement can be found here:
Very Technical Espar Question
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8968

A recent brush supply in this post. Thanks goes to rbjenterprises.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=202285#post202285
"I used some dental floss and passed it down the channel next to the brush, over the front of the brush then back out. I clamped the plastic motor end in the vice, pulled one brush up in to its housing and clamped the floss, pulled the other, slipped the motor housing on. Done! It works."

***
This is the Yahoo info:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sprintervan/message/54034

Here is an update about the circulation pump that caused the problem.

New one got here real fast, easy to replace just clamp off the hoses then swap
out pumps. Works! All I can ask for.

Well now I have the old one. It is broken so what can I lose? Took it apart and
found that the brushes were worn out, 2 winters and 44k miles, not what I would
call a robust design. Does anybody know when this pump actually operates? I know
it does when the REST button is pushed or when the booster heater is running
with the engine off. Does it also work when the engine is running? Either way I
would say if the pump only works with the espar on it only lasted less than 100
hrs.

I found some brushes close to the same size at the local True Value Hardware
store. Soldered them in, finally got it all back together and it works. I guess
it will go on the shelf and wait for a couple of winters and swap out the new
one. The old brushes were labeled L47, I could not find that exact replacement
so the hardware store ones were as close as I could find. The brush springs may
hang up but nothing a whack with a hammer won't cure.

Evidently this pump is a sore spot for other Mercedes build vehicles. I punched
the part number, 0 392 020 026, into Google and found that the Crossfire uses
this pump to cool its inter-cooler. On their forum they did not like it either,
they found a Johnson pump, CM30, that would replace it. It looks the same as the
Bosch but with a pigtail instead of a plug socket.

I think that the price was close to the price from Eurparts.
*******

A possible aftermarket replacement pump. (It may even fit the OEM bracket/rubber mount.

https://www.amazon.com/TOPSFLO-Brushless-Auto-pump-circulation/dp/B00QNRUWJ8/

A knockoff pump for about 40 bucks.
cciyu Auxiliary Water Pump fit
https://www.amazon.com/cciyu-Auxiliary-Mercedes-Benz-Freightliner-0392020026/dp/B07M632W8X

OCPTY Electric Water Pump 0392020026
https://www.amazon.com/OCPTY-Electric-0392020026-Mercedes-Benz-Freightliner/dp/B07MDC9MN3

Added:
The Bosch W133 pump body appears to be common for many different vehicles. The only change seems to be the electrical connector. I picked up a brand new Bosch 392 020 024 aka W133-1612030 pump for 30 bucks. For VW I believe. The pump slide connectors will easily adapt to the Sprinter electrical connector. The polarity is clearly marked on the pump.

Hope this does some good. AP/vic

Added:

...

On my 2004 it is mounted on the fire wall behind and a bit below the EGR valve. The coolant hose from the EGR is one of the hoses that connects to it. There are two 10 mm head sized nuts which hold the pump bracket to the fire wall. They are a pain to get to, but a socket and extension work. I cut slots in the bracket for the 8 mm studs for re-installation because I knew getting the nuts started would be a PITA. That allowed me to install both nuts partway on and slip the pump into place.

SprinterPumpBracketModified.jpg
 
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maxextz

Rollin Rollin Rollin.....
heres a trick i use when parked in a narrow space especially shopping centre car parks"like i was here" ,if cars are going to pass your van and you are afraid of them scraping or hitting it "basically because some car drivers find most basic driving challenging":wtf:just turn your front wheels to where the traffic passes so when they approach your van they dont just see the side of the van but the wheel sticking out beyond it and then will take more care when driving past and if they do manage to hit the tyre"tire" it will give them a fright and wont damage your van/car.

max...............:thumbup:

btw pull in your mirror also, unlike i did not do here.
 

Attachments

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surlyoldbill

New member
Use oil cap to replace fuel cap

Another cheap trick shamelessly stolen hot off the presses from Yahoo Sprintervan. Thanks to Mike "hannanart2002" and the Yahoo Sprintervan forum.

Mike writes,
Fellow SPRINTERians-

I have now driven several thousand miles with my oil filler cap on the fuel tank
and my fuel filler cap on the oil filling opening, without issue. I did this
because I was having to replace my fuel cap fairly regularly because of rust on
the cap. I noticed that the oil filler cap interior was plastic except for the
"ears" which engage the locking mechanism and they appeared to be similar in
size so I tried them and they each worked perfectly in the others place. I
asked Doktor A if there might be venting issues and he said the fuel tank was
not vented. Besides the rust issue there is the price of each - the fuel cap is
about 3 times the cost of the oil cap - $15 versus $5.

So there you are, as promised, an update. If I ever have to replace one or the
other, I'll spend the $5 for the oil cap and forget about another fuel cap.

Happy SPRINTERing-

Mike H
hannanart2002

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sprintervan/message/53893

FWIW. I don't think you can expect a dealership to do this for you as there may be a safety design issue with using other than the OEM metal cap on the fuel tank, but I haven't researched it. That said, I know that the fuel tank itself is plastic....you never know with vehicle DOT requirements. Certainly nothing stops you from making the DIY exchange.

AP/vic
I'll take a look, but the difference in cost may be due to the addition of the metal plate. Possibly removing the metal plate with a Dremel or other tool would eliminate any chance of rust. Again, I'll take a look and see if the metal disk actually DOES something.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Removing Grille Valence for MB Rebadging Re-badging Logo

I personally won't spend the money to convert the logos, but this Cheap Tricks thread is not about me. BBlessing posted this great idea for removing the OEM grille parts. It seems relatively simple and effective. Thanks goes to Bruce.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=75375&postcount=15

As with all single posts the original thread can be accessed using the link in the upper corner.

Text here:
"I used a heat gun on the back side under the hood and was able to get the hood trim off without any paint damage. took me about a half hour.

bb"

AP/vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Florida's Turnpike Travel

Anyone planning to use the toll road for a Florida vacation should check into the SunPass mini automated toll pay method.

http://www.sunpass.com/

I believe it saves some money on tolls, but more importantly it lets you avoid the sometimes long waits for the toll booths. The SunPass mini is available in Publix grocery stores, Florida's Turnpike rest stops and some other places. At the time of this posting there is a waiting period after activation so you need to plan ahead a bit.

We change highways at Ft. Pierce to avoid the southern leg of I95. The I95 and the Turnpike come close together at Ft. Pierce. We find the traffic and driving conditions on I95 deteriorate with increased volume as you get further south of Ft. Pierce. We think it's worth the toll cost to just completely avoid the I95 south of Ft. Pierce when heading to/from the Florida Keys.

Thanks goes to Boardster for reminding me about the SunPass mini. AP/vic

2011/01/17 edit: Florida Travel - SunPass is now more important

I just recieved some information which makes it even more important now. Soon there will be no toll booths on the south end of the Turnpike. Vehicles without SunPass can still travel through, but they will be charged an additional fee for license plate billing.

More info here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14352
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Rear Seat Floor Heat

Jackbombay and Bikergar got me thinking about this so they can share the blame..

Jackbombay's Cheap Easy Enhancements thread has a duct direction modification.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9046

Bikergar asked about DIY Ducting.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9302

My original post in the DIY Ducting thread #6.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9302

*******
So I tried my idea of a temporary hose for some heat to the feet of my 2nd row seat passengers. It works even better than I had hoped. I used a vac hose that is approx. 1 5/8" O.D. so that it friction fits right into the foot area OEM outlet. I was actually looking for a larger hose to fit over the outside of the OEM outlet, but it turns out to not be necessary. It seems the inside fitting hose gives plenty of air flow.

I found that if I kept the air selector knob on my T1N anywhere between about 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock I had plenty of flow out of the hose. The best result was at either 6 or 7 o'clock. With a 20 F outside temperature I found that I still had plenty of heat for my feet from the remaining OEM outlet. I think it is enough that I can actually attach a hose on the passenger side to feed the rear area without freezing my wife's feet. Time will tell on that one.

The hose, end fitting and securing loop which I used. I think the hose is from a Hoover vacuum, but it may be another brand as it was one I had laying around.

VacHoseFittingLoop.jpg

The hose inserted in the passenger side.

PassSideHoseInstalled.jpg

The hose and fitting running along my cooler platform to the rear. I think if I notch the front of the platform for the hose I can run it underneath.

HoseAndFittingToBack.jpg

The driver side hose inserted. I believe it is clear enough of the accelerator pedal.

DriverSideAboveGoPedal.jpg

The hose holder I threw together with a loop of 75 ohm TV cable. I finally found a real use for that pen holder gizmo.

RetainingLoop.jpg

I think two of these hoses to the feet of the people in the back will make a huge difference. Hope this does some good. AP/vic
********

Additional information:
I used hoses from discarded vacuum cleaners which I had found. When I pick up vac cleaners or parts I run them without a bag outdoors for a while to purge them. I then spray in Lysol disinfectant while they are running. I wash the hoses in a bleach solution. Probably not 100%, but good enough for practical purpose for me.

Some other hoses available from Home Depot or other stores which I think may work are corrugated sump pump hose, washing machine corrugated plastic hose, and perhaps some flex plastic electrical tubing or pool filter hoses I've seen. Any hose about 1 5/8" O.D. should push in and stay put in the OEM outlet. I found that the small vac attachment end helped the air fan out more than just an open hose end.

For more permanent installations I think a combination of hose and PVC pipe/fittings or other plastic tubing may be more compact along the floor next to the seats. Of course there are always parts specifically made as duct system components, but... $$$:crazy:. Hope this does some good. AP/vic

Edit:
Additional info from Farm Bus - Thanks Brian. Taken from the DIY Duct thread.
*****
"Vic, I ended up at a Home Depot and bought two Rigid shop vac hoses for $18 each. Wow. They are the EXACT size of the foot-well outlets. I slid them over the outlets, friction fit! then I used tie straps to anchor them to my perforated floor mat that sits between the front seats, then used gorilla tape to tape them to the seat supports of the back seat. One on each side, with the drivers side directed to the outside of the seat, along the foot-well. I'd post pictures, but they look exactly like yours. I did all of it in the parking lot with my 80 year old mom helping (10 degrees, windy). Anyway, I also put gorilla tape over the rectangular foot-well openings to increase flow into the hoses. I can remove or reapply the tape to tweak it when we're on the road (that is so high-tech!) to get heat into the front foot-wells, but I don't think we'll need it......."
****
For people with only one rear seat. I have been thinking that a piece of plastic sheet or a towel hung down from the seat frame will act as a block and encourage more of the heated air to stay in the area of the passengers feet. I guess any luggage stowed under the seat may help accomplish that also. To take it the ridiculous one step further, I have even been considering cutting out the front of a 5 gallon bucket or plastic trash container to make 2 ea. personal foot-wells for 2 passenger mode. One hose per person. That may be too restrictive to leg movement though. Maybe if made out of soft black leather.....
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Removing the dash air vent duct louver louvre

Search: air control lever thumb wheel shutoff shut off

This one may save you breaking the vent assembly during a DIY repair, thus saving money by parts purchase avoidance. It was a toss-up as to whether I'd include it in Stoopid Things or Cheap Tricks until Max suggested using lollipop (popsicle) sticks as removal tools. (Thanks Max:cheers:) Thanks also to all other contributors.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=80147#post80147

AP/vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Use 22" Wipers on both sides

The T1N Sprinter calls for a 24" wiper on the driver side and a 22" wiper on the passenger side.

My driver wiper rubber peeled a bit right in my field of vision. To get by I switched the wipers. The end of the 24" wiper did hit the windshield gasket in the park position, but that was all. Losing the one inch of vision each end on the driver side was not noticeable because it is not where you look out.

Anyway, when I replaced the bad wiper I decided to use the passenger 22" size on both sides. Why is this a Cheap Trick you might ask? I figure less drag on the wiper is less stress on the wiper spindle and associated parts. The shaft may last longer. The shorter wiper should also have less tendency to get lifted by the wind at higher speeds because there is less surface area.

Don't know if this is even worth posting, but what the hey. YMMV. AP/vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Fuel Filter Fragile Plastic Tab

This may or may not apply to the T1N style filter, but I figured it's worth posting here also.

This is not a Cheap Trick proper, but may avoid costly repair. There is a plastic tab on the fuel filter related parts which can be broken during change/installation. He also describes a repair technique using cable ties for securing fuel lines that I know works. I have employed it to jump out bad lines joining hose on the cut off good tubing stubs which doesn't have the keeper bump. Without some restraint method the pressure can slide the hose down the smooth tubing if it doesn't have that keeper bump. (Yep, even when the clamps are tight.) Thanks to Fishermunn for the heads up.

More details here:
warning about diy fuel filter replacement
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9926

A recent thread. Thanks goes to Dennis, Linden Engineering.

Fire
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14167

AP/vic
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Driver Seat Electrical Access

I added a two position 12 volt cigar outlet unit to the back of my driver seat base today. Up until now I haven't had any reason to access inside the driver seat base. It turns out it is pretty simple. I know it's probably covered in the repair manuals, but I didn't look. So here's what I found on my 2004 for others who may only look at the manual as a last resort as I often do.

Removing the seat pan was a cinch. There is a small lever in the front of the seat. You hold that lever over ALL THE WAY, pull the seat pan out until it stops, and then lift it straight up. There are four nylon slide blocks which release through square holes in the seat pan shell. If you have a heated seat you may need to disconnect the supply connector, or just set the seat over to the side.

The latch

SprinterSeatPanLatchwArrow.jpg

Once the seat pan is off you will see a gray cover. It looked to me like I needed to remove 4 each screws to get that cover off. To access those I needed to remove the 6 each Allen screws to remove the seat track. As it turns out, I was wrong. There are only 2 rear screws that need to be removed and then the gray cover will come right out. The other 2 screws fasten an unrelated metal support bracket.

I took this picture, but didn't frame in the actual screw locations. Anyway, it gives the idea. I wrote those notes to myself in grease pencil for next time.

SprinterWireCover.jpg

As it turns out I would have needed to remove the seat frame for access to install my outlets. I think for many jobs just pulling the seat pan and cover will give enough access to the base cavity.

As an aside, I tapped into a heavy gauge red wire with a yellow trace which feeds #4 fuse position (25 Amp listed as Booster Heater on my fuse map). I used a separate in-line fuse for my outlets. All the red with yellow trace wires I tested were off when the key is off.

Putting the seat pan back into place is easy. Just reverse what was done to remove it. I will say that you need to make certain all 4 nylon blocks are up into the square holes and properly engaged.

You might wonder why I put this in Stoopid Things instead of Write-ups. (Edit: I didn't, did I??:doh:) I have put off installing that double outlet for a while now because I thought access to under the driver seat would be a big job. It turns out it is easy. Stoopid me. (Edit: No wonder I couldn't find this in Stoopid Tricks when I checked back. I really need to get back to smoking drugs or something so I have an excuse for being so spacey!!!:crazy::bash::yell::drink::whistle: :cheers:) AP/vic

P.S. - I didn't try this because I have a heated seat pan, but it looks like the seat pan can be removed and swapped for the passenger seat pan. It might be worth trying if you notice heavier wear on your driver seat. Edit: I have since shifted the worn driver side heated seat bottom to the passenger side. Both swapped fine. I just ignored the heat feature.

Nylon Block Parts Info

2010/10/15 edit:
The nylon seat slide blocks are Mercedes Part # 000 919 01 24. (Set of 4 each.)
Thanks goes to RPM55.
More info thanks to Gulf SV:

"The Chrysler# is 05133215-AA. The MB# is A 000 919 01 24
. Be advised that the quantity listed is 1, which is to say one set of four. Price from the local Dodge dealer was $4.82 (list $6.38). We ordered three since that's how many I needed. They kept the other two sets."

The white slide blocks:

SprinterSeatNylonGuideswLatch.jpg


The square rectangular holes they fit into at the end of the slide slots:


SprinterSeatPanUnderside.jpg
 
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teamtexas

A Dad owner with a '03
Wait a minute Vic. Your telling me the seat can be removed by pulling a lever :wtf: I've had both my seats out to install swivels but didn't see a way that it could be removed with a lever. I had to unbolt them from the base. :shifty:


Dan
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Wait a minute Vic. Your telling me the seat can be removed by pulling a lever :wtf: I've had both my seats out to install swivels but didn't see a way that it could be removed with a lever. I had to unbolt them from the base. :shifty:


Dan
Dan,
Not the entire seat, the seat pan or bottom section. That is where you rest your ass. Removing the seat pan gives access to the electrical compartment from the top once the slotted cover shown in my 2nd picture is removed.

Giving it further thought, my seats have the optional red levers on the side which gives you many different adjustments. If you don't have the optional red levers to adjust the seat pan then maybe there isn't a lever and it can't be removed as mine does.

20120810 edit: I've learned that any of you hooligans who only have 2 red seat adjusting levers will not have the seat latch to allow removal.

SprinterSeatRedAdjusters.jpg

A picture showing the square white nylon slide blocks.

SprinterSeatNylonGuides.jpg

The underside of the seat pan showing the slide grooves with square removal spots at the end of the track.

SprinterSeatPanUnderside.jpg


Sorry I'm not more familiar so I can give you a better answer. I figured this was common knowledge. Maybe it's a minor discovery?:thinking: Hope this does some good. AP/vic

P.S. - there is no doubt in my mind that the seat pans can be exchanged side to side except if you only have the seat heater option on the driver side. I suppose you could still swap them over, but you'd lose the heated seat pan capability. Edit: You can swap them. I did it with mine.
 
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teamtexas

A Dad owner with a '03
I'll be :doh: its there allright! Thanks Vic! That would have made putting my swivels on a lot easier. Down side to having a swivel is you can't access the ele. compartmant anymore unless you unbolt the seat.


I've got another stupid thing everyone should know. When you buy replacement inserts for the swithes in the dash, go ahead and splurge and buy enough to change them all (I think they cost about 49 cents each). The little ears break really easy!!!

Dan
 

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