2013 - 3500 ABS, ESP and ASR Dash Indicator Lights On Simultanously

poptop

New member
Today in my 2013 Sprinter 3500, the ABS, ESP and ASR dash indicator lights suddenly came on after departing from a fill-up. It had just been driven about 200 miles with zero issues. After driving a few miles I pulled over and stopped it, turned off the ignition, restarted and the lights cut off after a few seconds traveling down the road, only to return a few seconds later. I've tried starting and restarting a few more times and the lights seem like they're not going to turn off.

I understand this can be caused by the brake light circuit, but I've checked the center light and the two on either side and they appear to light normally.

I've eyeballed the brake switch at the top of the pedal and it "appears" fine or at least doesn't appear damaged. Also the brake seems normal.

Any other suggestions for what I could check before having to have a pro look at it?
 

Attachments

Front left speed sensor likely failed.
Same thing happened to me last year and it took the dealer replacing the part to make the lights go away.

Also, you now cannot use cruise control and you have no rollover protection/brake assist until the lights clear.

-Ryan
 

09SprinterWagon

New member
Rt rear speed sensor failed on mine. Bought the iCarsoft MBII scanner off ebay for $175 to diagnose. You can read about it in the NCV3 Write-ups...
 
I had this exact issue. Didn't lose power so drove several hundred miles w/o cruse till convenient to get to dealer. It was a faulty sensor in the steering column according to mechanic. Fixed under warranty and hasn't returned.


2014 LTV Unity MB on 2013 Sprinter
 

Rock Doc

Active member
This is spooky--I had this exact same thing happen with my 2013 3500 (underlying my 2014 Pleasureway Plateau TS) just 3 days ago. I was driving on I-90 in southern Montana with moderate crosswinds, and when a modest gust struck me from the left, both these lights illuminated on my dash and I lost my cruise control. I pulled to the side of the road and turned the ignition off for a few seconds (hoping this would self-correct), but it didn't.

I then drove to the next rest stop (about another 5-10 miles), and pulled out my multimeter to check all the fuses. And I mean ALL the fuses (near the OBD II port as well as on the driver seat pedestal). Needless to say, all of them were fine.

When I re-started, which was about 20-30 minutes after checking all the fuses (and a 10-100 break), everything was back to normal. I suspected this might be something from the ASR system from the gust of wind and just needed a "time out" for the ECU to reset fully and clear the codes. However, as I finished my trip home to the Seattle area the next day, I had much stronger and gustier crosswinds (in the Columbia River Valley along I-90) than what I had in Montana, but no issues with the warning lights.

Seeing that others have had this exact same issue that ended-up as due to a wheel sensor, and also considering that I have just about 35k on the odometer (and thus only 1000 miles left on my warranty), I think I'm going to check in with the MB stealership to have this looked at!!

Thanks so very, very much to all!! And yes, Forum Searches are very well worth the effort!!! :rad: :cheers:

Rock Doc
 

poptop

New member
Can Anyone Confirm they Have a Code Reader that will Read ABS Codes on a 2013-3500?

I appreciate everyone's help! I hoped my issue would heal overnight, but alas ....it didn't all three are on and steady. I went by Autozone in hopes their code reader could read the ABS codes ....but it couldn't.

The Freightliner dealer here in Greenville said they would read it for $125 (minimum 1-hour charge). It was his guess that it was a speed sensor, but they wouldn't know until they ran the codes.

Before I spend $125 just to get the codes, I'll think I'll just buy something that will read the ABS codes. Can anyone recommend a code reader that they know will read the ABS codes on a 2013-3500?

The only affordable one I've seen is the iCarSoft http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_s...00-20&linkId=6b34ef1bc9a36bac38d62d11503093b0
 

Craves_Waves

New member
I just had the same issue on my 2007 with the added problem that when driving it won't shift out of 1st. the dash also doesn't display the "D" when in drive. Same issue?
 

Rock Doc

Active member
Based on the information here on this thread I've made an appointment at the stealership to have my Sprinter checked on 4/5/2016. Since I'm sitting at 34,983 miles on the odometer, I want to get this done before the warranty expires!

I'll share what they find after they look at it. At a minimum, even if they don't find anything, at least registering the issue before the warranty expires should give me some point of argument for warranty coverage for the problem even if it takes until after the 36k warranty lapses for them to be able to positively identify the problem.

Rock Doc
 
Bought an Autel 802 code reader only to find speed sensor had trouble codes I could not clear. In my case going to the dealer for the replacement front sensor fixed all problems. I originally posted problems in the thread about BFG AT KO2 265/75/R16 tires because my issues started hours after a tire install (and now I think were unrelated)

My 2 cents worth are just take your van to a dealer/mechanic and have them fix under warranty. If not under warranty you probably will pay the same $ as a code reader to fix a busted speed sensor.

Good luck and let us know what it was after you get it fixed :)

-Ryan
 

poptop

New member
Replacing the Rear Wheel ABS Speed Sensor on a 2013-3500 - Tools and Procedure Recom

Does anyone know what special tools and/or the sequence to remove and install a rear wheel ABS speed sensor on a 2013 3500? The bolt holding the sensor appears to have star like knurls. Is that indeed the bolt and if so, what tool do you need for that thing? Is it as simple as getting the right tool to remove that bolt, pulling out the speed sensor and replacing with the new? I understand it needs to be gapped to 0.015"?

How I got this far:
The iCarSoft came in yesterday and it indicates the right rear wheel speed sensor is the problem. I removed the right rear wheels and checked the resistance from at the coupling connector. It seems to read open. I don't know if that's unusual or not. Either way this feels like progress.

So, I've ordered a new right rear wheel ABS speed sensor and hopefully it will be here in a few days.
 

aldsmith3

New member
Re: Can Anyone Confirm they Have a Code Reader that will Read ABS Codes on a 2013-350

I appreciate everyone's help! I hoped my issue would heal overnight, but alas ....it didn't all three are on and steady. I went by Autozone in hopes their code reader could read the ABS codes ....but it couldn't.

The Freightliner dealer here in Greenville said they would read it for $125 (minimum 1-hour charge). It was his guess that it was a speed sensor, but they wouldn't know until they ran the codes.

Before I spend $125 just to get the codes, I'll think I'll just buy something that will read the ABS codes. Can anyone recommend a code reader that they know will read the ABS codes on a 2013-3500?

The only affordable one I've seen is the iCarSoft http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_s...00-20&linkId=6b34ef1bc9a36bac38d62d11503093b0
FYI Doktor A is right down the road in Clemson - much better to work with than a dealer (in my experience). You can find his info on this forum.

Cheers,
 

Rock Doc

Active member
Just went to the Sprinter dealer today (MB of Lynnwood, WA) to have this checked out on my 2014 Pleasure-Way Plateau TS on a 2013 Sprinter 3500 chassis. It was important for me to do it now, as I had 35,009 miles on it when I checked in--less than 1000 miles left on the warranty!

What they told me is that indeed wheel speed sensors are a relatively common failure that can cause these symptoms of the ABS and ESP warning lights coming on. However, my speed sensors checks-out fine. There were no sustained hard-faults in the system.

They also told me that after a re-set (typically stopping the vehicle and leaving it off for 10 minutes so all the electronic systems can reset), if the warning lights go out, you're OK and the system just sensed a potential problem situation. However, if the lights illuminate and remain illuminated after a 10-minutes stop, then it is much more likely that it is a wheel speed sensor failure.

I also asked the next question--with this common wheel speed sensor failure, the repair is typically in the $450-$500 range (per sensor).

More info that's useful for all of us to know!


Rock Doc
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
Rock Doc
Sensor failure is very rare, what does happen to cause the above effects is small metal pieces lodge in the tone wheel and confuse the sensor. By replacing the sensor you can dislodge the offending object and all is good again. Much better to fix it yourself by pulling out the sensor using an open ended spanner as a lever then blow air down the hole while turning the wheel by hand, push the sensor back in in until it touches the tone wheel and you are fixed. The reason the dealers do not do this is because there is no profit and mark of parts in just cleaning the wheel. Eric.
 

Rock Doc

Active member
Rock Doc
Sensor failure is very rare, what does happen to cause the above effects is small metal pieces lodge in the tone wheel and confuse the sensor. By replacing the sensor you can dislodge the offending object and all is good again. Much better to fix it yourself by pulling out the sensor using an open ended spanner as a lever then blow air down the hole while turning the wheel by hand, push the sensor back in in until it touches the tone wheel and you are fixed. The reason the dealers do not do this is because there is no profit and mark of parts in just cleaning the wheel. Eric.
Thanks, Eric--this advice may well be worth a lot more than $500!!! :rad: :cheers: :thumbup:

Rock Doc
 

Rock Doc

Active member
Well, guess what: two days ago as I started my engine in a rest stop 15 miles north of Portland on I-5, I had all three of these lights (ABS, ASR and ESC) come on--only this time they wouldn't go out no matter how much time I gave between restarts. As it was late, I drove through Portland and overnighted at a Flying J, then went to MB Sprinter of Wilsonia the next morning at their opening time. The graciously looked at my Sprinter that day without an appointment, and discovered the left rear wheel speed sensor was not giving a signal. Of course, they didn't have one in stock, but ordered it to be delivered today. As of right now, I'm sitting here waiting for them to pull my sprinter back into the shop to change that wheel speed sensor.

I guess my previous episode was just the harbinger that this was to come. It wasn't just a fluke, even though when it was checked 200 miles ago the wheel speed sensor just hadn't yet fully failed as it checked out OK then.

The best part of this for me is that MB screwed up on this one: the odometer is sitting at 35,282 on this 2013 chassis, so it's still just barely under warranty!

Rock Doc
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Well, guess what: two days ago as I started my engine in a rest stop 15 miles north of Portland on I-5, I had all three of these lights (ABS, ASR and ESC) come on--only this time they wouldn't go out no matter how much time I gave between restarts. As it was late, I drove through Portland and overnighted at a Flying J, then went to MB Sprinter of Wilsonia the next morning at their opening time. The graciously looked at my Sprinter that day without an appointment, and discovered the left rear wheel speed sensor was not giving a signal. Of course, they didn't have one in stock, but ordered it to be delivered today. As of right now, I'm sitting here waiting for them to pull my sprinter back into the shop to change that wheel speed sensor.

I guess my previous episode was just the harbinger that this was to come. It wasn't just a fluke, even though when it was checked 200 miles ago the wheel speed sensor just hadn't yet fully failed as it checked out OK then.

The best part of this for me is that MB screwed up on this one: the odometer is sitting at 35,282 on this 2013 chassis, so it's still just barely under warranty!

Rock Doc
For info
On the 3500 the axle architecture you will find the sensor is mounted at 12,0 clock and protrudes into the case and "looks" at a small dimple hole formed in the outer bearing supporting the axle shaft (half shaft.) an the inner race track is the tone ring .
Its fairly long for a sensor having a body about 2 inched long under the mount flange.

You have to go easy getting them out because the stem section gets corroded where it sits in the axle and is easily sheered off if you are not mechanically friendly--other words ham fisted!

For the most part I have observed that they get knocked about as chassis cab at the body builders, crack and water gets inside the sensor guts over time!

The other hidden issue is that RV manufacturers use the sensor pig tail mounts and the wire hooks mounted on the axle to hold their electrical equipment wiring. It seems they cut the original zip ties off and re-bundlle it all leaving the senor wires strained, or they drop out of the mount hooks, and rub on the wheels, or get whacked by road debris.

The last as Eric has mentioned the hub bearing itself when it goes south excessive end play and debris corrupts the inner tone ring --basically a precursor to an axle shaft and bearing change out at $950 plus labor of about one to two hours.

The sensor is $180 a pop at the rear, plus one hour to install and clear with scanner and road test. The price you have mentioned seems high!!!! Unless the axle shaft is being changed out!

Dealers never keep wheel speed sensors in stock (maybe some have the odd one gathering dust for a 2500 at $125 each ) but 3500 are a "Nah mate no stock" So its a two day lead time to get and fix, a four day VOR if its happens on a week end!

I keep one of each sensor in stock for every Sprinter since the 2002 into for the very same reason as I have written here!

I suppose on a lighter note these sensor contretemps always seem to happen at the week end and public holidays like the 4th of July and Christmas prompting a call out!
Always it seems an RV going somewhere, usually it comes with a wife who for the most part is mature and voluptuous having brassiere reinforced with metal!

Upon successful completion and road test I often get the affectionate hug with the "thank you" as metal reinforced nether regions get forced into my upper neck area--most uncomfortable, but a necessary part it would seem of fixing Sprinters in an expedient fashion!
I supposed I have yet to meet any AMERICAN female "co driver" who wears Chanel #5--(usually reserved for English ladies who wear tweed or Burberry) simply implies & reminds me of "boxed ears", searing pain at the hand of an aunt when I was a kid; or ladies at church wearing the same perfume, and a draped fox stole with beady glass eyes! That bloody fashion item that always seem to be staring at me and about to bite at any unsuspecting moment when sitting in pew and force to listen to something I didn't have a clue about, nor had interest ! Always scared the Bejesus out of me as a 5 year old!:thumbdown:
All the best and I hope this post was helpful.
Dennis
Mechanic
 
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Trebor Retsruw

New member
Same thing happened on my 2014 Sprinter Coachhouse 241. Both times it was the real wheel sensor. First the right wheel and than the left wheel. Both of the repairs were under warranty. I have had no problems since the repairs. You can still drive but no cruse control, and be sure you don't have to be in a panic stop as this could end up serious without ABS. Also driving down a long steep incline could be a problem.
 

Rock Doc

Active member
ROCdoc.
Did you ask them to clean the tone wheel instead of changing the sensor? Eric
Eric,

Sorry to be a bit late in replying--we're on the road on an extended rip, and good internet connections are at a bit of a premium!

I did ask about metal shavings at the time of the repair. They told me that this wouldn't be the problem, as they had "no signal" from the left rear speed sensor when they ran the checks. Regardless, from my standpoint, they changed it under warranty and it's working, so no additional cost to me. However, since I just ran out of warranty about 300 miles ago, if it happens again, it will be on my nickel!

The interesting thing is that as we traveled through a MAJOR windstorm two days ago traveling from Sequoia National Park to Ridgecrest, CA (to meet with Chuck the Tire-Man for better tire valves), we did get another huge gust of wind that illuminated the original two dash lights (ASR and ESC), as had happened with my first escapade. These re-set with an engine turn-off to re-cycle and re-set the computer systems, and they have not yet returned. I'm hoping my experiences have been first and third simply goosing the system with a gust of wind, and that the second one was the real thing--hopefully never to repeat.

Rock Doc
 

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