Hi jwt,
Why are you testing the compression on an engine with only 10K miles.
The rings haven't even seated yet.
Is there some problem.....?
To check the compression to get the results that Dick cited, you have to remove the glow plugs on all cylinders.
Also something very questionable to do on an almost brand new engine.
Or do you have some other type of compression test.......say a measure of the starter current and how smooth it is or something?
What device are you using to get the numbers you provided?
Roger
"Rpm" in German is expressed as "1/min". Doktor AI don't understand the units of your measurement (liters per minute? Is that a leak-down test?).
--dick
as a -compression- reading?The result I have got on mine is 209 1/min, is this good?
Hi,Excellent points.
Hi Docktor A,
So, the "compression test" jwt has performed with the DAS diagnostics is really just a test of
how fast (RPM's or 1/min) the engine turns over on the starter, right?
209 RPM=209 1/min.
Wouldn't this test be "skewed" by battery voltage, starter condition, engine temp (if done on a cold day) and
a few other "factors" I can't think of at the moment?
Yes, if the engine turns over at 209 rpm...1/min with 13.8 volts and a good starter with the engine at normal
operating temp, you could say the compression is OK, but what if it turns over faster... or slower?
Just playing devil's advocate here!
Roger
209 1/min translates to 209 rpm.
Why only one number was listed here is the question. The actual diagnostic test (using DAS, DRBIII or SDA) gives a readout of rpm for each cylinder during a timed cranking. And yes, the test can be skewed by starter and battery issues but it is somewhat useful for quick diagnosis which can then lead to a more traditional test using a mechanical compression gauge. Doktor A
Hi jwt,
Why are you testing the compression on an engine with only 10K miles.
The rings haven't even seated yet.
Is there some problem.....?
To check the compression to get the results that Dick cited, you have to remove the glow plugs on all cylinders.
Also something very questionable to do on an almost brand new engine.
Or do you have some other type of compression test.......say a measure of the starter current and how smooth it is or something?
What device are you using to get the numbers you provided?
Roger
Hi jwt,
Why are you testing the compression on an engine with only 10K miles.
The rings haven't even seated yet.
Is there some problem.....?
To check the compression to get the results that Dick cited, you have to remove the glow plugs on all cylinders.
Also something very questionable to do on an almost brand new engine.
Or do you have some other type of compression test.......say a measure of the starter current and how smooth it is or something?
What device are you using to get the numbers you provided?
Roger
hI,I don't understand the units of your measurement (liters per minute? Is that a leak-down test?).
The 2004 2.7L service manual cites a maximum compression of 29-35 bar (420-507 psi),
a minimum compression of 18bar (261 psi)
and a maximum -difference- between the cylinders of ± 3bar (± 44 psi)
((if the symbols get mangled, "±" means "plus or minus"))
The manual's leak-down tests results are in terms of percentage from 10% to 25% depending upon the exit path.
(but they don't specify the -time- for that pressure loss, so i'm at a loss...)
good luck
--dick
Hi John,
How much smoke do you get.... how long after the engine starts does is the smoke visible?
Since you only have 10 K miles is this issue not covered under your warranty?
If the smoke is not real "objectionable" I'd keep after the MB dealer on the warranty issue, but
continue to drive the van and see if a bit more mileage doesn't help things get "seated in" and
take care for this issue in the longer term.
White/blue smoke makes this a bit more interesting vs black smoke.
White/blue smoke would seem to be from oil burning... like it's getting past the oil control rig (s)
or down the valve guides...something like that.
Black smoke would indicate excessive fuel (in my experience).
Roger
jwt,
I have an '06 T1N with the 2.7L 5 cylinder .... while your oil consumption is excessive, I would say the blue/whitish smoke isn't necessarily abnormal - neither is any "stink" you might smell. My son's '04 T1N stinks (especially after idling) ..... my '06 does as well.
Seems to be a particular smell that is unique to the Sprinter (my RAM with the Cummins certainly doesn't "stink" as much as the Sprinter - it may have it's own unique smell, but if so it's definitely not the same - the Sprinter's smell is very unique and rather noticeable ......)
I have around 135K on the motor - and no excessive oil consumption - in fact, the oil consumption continues to decrease the more miles I put on it. My Sprinter has seen lots of idling (hundreds - if not thousands - of hours) - it is not abnormal for my motor to smoke after it has sat idling for say 4, 6, or even 8 hours or more.
It is particularly noticeable when taking off after idling for long periods and then driving at night with a car behind you - look in the righthand (passenger) mirror and their headlights will be illuminating a blue/white cloud coming from my tailpipe - at least for awhile ...... until it burns off :
My guess is that the excessive oil is due to the engine not really being broken in yet, as others have mentioned. Still, checking compression with a compression gauge probably wouldn't be a bad idea.