T1N Passenger Van Conversion

mtnick

Member
Espar Airtronic Install-
So I purchased an Espar D2 earlier this summer, but just finally got around to doing the install. Under the passenger seat seemed like a logical place to mount it. I spent a fair bit of time reading about Midwestdrifter's install here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=411272&postcount=67

As usual Johnathan did a wonderful job with his install and write up. The one thing that I wanted to do differently was the routing of the the heat ducting. I really didn't want to restrict the air flow with any unnecessary bends. I also wanted to leave as much free space as possible under the seat to store other thinngs. I was also concerned about the amount of space on the floor between the wire channel and the underbody support members that are in the area. So I decided to build a mounting plate that lifted the heater off the floor.



I built this out of aluminum, because I just happened to have a bunch of scrap aluminum sitting around. The bracket allowed me to angle the heater up and toward the center line of the seat pedestal.







You can see here that there is very little bend in the heat duct.

I used high temp silicone to seal the exhaust connection to the heater. I also used this same red silicone to seal around the hoses as they exited the floor of the van.



You can see here that there is plenty of room to bring the hoses down through the floor when you don’t have to worry about having enough of a flat surface to mount the heater to. The exhaust pipe is actually a bit over the edge and into the wire channel that goes between the seats. The exhaust pipe sneaks out from underneath the heat shield and travels a bit toward the back of the van to where I mounted the muffler.





The combustable air intake and fuel line are routed toward the driver side. And I mounted the fuel pump right next the the pump of ray hydronic heater. I used a brass 1/4’ barbed “T” and used standard rubber fuel line for the supply side of the pump.



I then cleaned up the interior install a bit.





My Espar kit came with the Easy Star Select controller. It is a newer basic, yet digital controller. I opted to add an external temperature sensor. I ordered this sensor from the Espar / Varnish folks in the UK:

http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Eberspacher_Sensor.html





That little blurry thing is the temp sensor.

So far I am very happy with the amount of heat output. It is getting chilly here in Montana. We are looking forward to testing it out this weekend for a Fall trip to Glacier National Park.

A big thanks to Midwestdrifter for his advice on this install. This was a daunting install, but once I started things went fairly smoothly.
 
Last edited:

locodrvr

New member
Great build, A lot on inspiration. We were just about to pull the trigger on a 144" tomorrow and found out we are now expecting a fourth. We have our eye on a passenger 158". So before we go that route. Would you do anything different? Cargo instead of passenger? 170 instead of 158? Also how does it handle on forest service roads? Hoping to have something built out before our July road trip to Missoula for a wedding. Sorry for all the questions but thanks in advance for any help.
 

mtnick

Member
Great build, A lot on inspiration. We were just about to pull the trigger on a 144" tomorrow and found out we are now expecting a fourth. We have our eye on a passenger 158". So before we go that route. Would you do anything different? Cargo instead of passenger? 170 instead of 158? Also how does it handle on forest service roads? Hoping to have something built out before our July road trip to Missoula for a wedding. Sorry for all the questions but thanks in advance for any help.
There are things about the passenger van that make it very nice for converting and a number of reasons that I wish that I would have started with a cargo van. If I was to do it again, I would probably go with a cargo van and start with a "clean slate". However, the passenger van suspension is really nice and comfortable. The wall panels and headliner significantly reduce the amount of finish work needed. And probably most importantly for you, the seats are factory installed and safe. I went with the 158, because it fell in my lap and was a good deal. 158 vs. 170, 6:1, half dozen: the other. Although I am happy that I don't have to fill up on DEF and I don't have to deal with the finicky DEF systems on the NCV3s. My van does fine on dirt roads, but I take it slow... Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks.
 

jmvan

2017 144 Crew DIY
We opted to build torsion boxes out of plywood skins and milled 2x material.
I really like the torsional box idea. What thickness plywood did you use for the skins? Also, just to make sure I read this correctly, 2x was 2"x2" stock yes?

Thanks
 

mtnick

Member
I really like the torsional box idea. What thickness plywood did you use for the skins? Also, just to make sure I read this correctly, 2x was 2"x2" stock yes?

Thanks
We used 1/2 inch on top and 1/4 on the bottom. We used 2x4s, ripped them and then milled them to our specific needs. While this worked well, if I had to do it again I would probably just build a frame out of 1" square steel tubing and sheet it with 1/2" ply...
 

jmrod721

New member
I love the simplicity and well thought out approach to the build! I have the exact same van with the factory rear A/C monstrosity that I want to reduce down to something that takes up less room. Can you expand on how you did this, in terms of did you fabricate that cover that I see over it now?

Also, did you add insulation to the floor and ceiling of the van? I live in CO and I'm thinking that will be essential for when I'm parking at ski resorts and in the back country. That, plus good insulating curtains, which I think I'll try to make myself and save some coin.
 

bcman

Active member
I love the simplicity and well thought out approach to the build! I have the exact same van with the factory rear A/C monstrosity that I want to reduce down to something that takes up less room. Can you expand on how you did this, in terms of did you fabricate that cover that I see over it now?

Also, did you add insulation to the floor and ceiling of the van? I live in CO and I'm thinking that will be essential for when I'm parking at ski resorts and in the back country. That, plus good insulating curtains, which I think I'll try to make myself and save some coin.
I have a 2003, which for some reason doesn't have the rooftop evaporator, but still has the condenser and ductwork on the ceiling inside. The ductwork is pretty easy to remove - there are a bunch of plastic snaps that hold the plastic cover in place, and then there's a bunch of sheet metal that comes off with screws. Many T1N owners have removed the ductwork and said the rear A/C works just as well if not better, and I'd have to agree with this. Removing the entire thing is a much more involved process - you'll have to deal with covering some large holes in the roof.

My 2003 also had no insulation in the walls or ceiling. Thinsulate made a huge difference in terms of heat and noise. Insulated window covers are a must-have for a passenger van conversion as well.
 
Espar Airtronic Install-
So I purchased an Espar D2 earlier this summer, but just finally got around to doing the install. Under the passenger seat seemed like a logical place to mount it. I spent a fair bit of time reading about Midwestdrifter's install here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=411272&postcount=67

As usual Johnathan did a wonderful job with his install and write up. The one thing that I wanted to do differently was the routing of the the heat ducting. I really didn't want to restrict the air flow with any unnecessary bends. I also wanted to leave as much free space as possible under the seat to store other thinngs. I was also concerned about the amount of space on the floor between the wire channel and the underbody support members that are in the area. So I decided to build a mounting plate that lifted the heater off the floor.



I built this out of aluminum, because I just happened to have a bunch of scrap aluminum sitting around. The bracket allowed me to angle the heater up and toward the center line of the seat pedestal.







You can see here that there is very little bend in the heat duct.

I used high temp silicone to seal the exhaust connection to the heater. I also used this same red silicone to seal around the hoses as they exited the floor of the van.



You can see here that there is plenty of room to bring the hoses down through the floor when you don’t have to worry about having enough of a flat surface to mount the heater to. The exhaust pipe is actually a bit over the edge and into the wire channel that goes between the seats. The exhaust pipe sneaks out from underneath the heat shield and travels a bit toward the back of the van to where I mounted the muffler.





The combustable air intake and fuel line are routed toward the driver side. And I mounted the fuel pump right next the the pump of ray hydronic heater. I used a brass 1/4’ barbed “T” and used standard rubber fuel line for the supply side of the pump.



I then cleaned up the interior install a bit.





My Espar kit came with the Easy Star Select controller. It is a newer basic, yet digital controller. I opted to add an external temperature sensor. I ordered this sensor from the Espar / Varnish folks in the UK:

http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Eberspacher_Sensor.html





That little blurry thing is the temp sensor.

So far I am very happy with the amount of heat output. It is getting chilly here in Montana. We are looking forward to testing it out this weekend for a Fall trip to Glacier National Park.

A big thanks to Midwestdrifter for his advice on this install. This was a daunting install, but once I started things went fairly smoothly.
seems a bit dangerous to have the exhaust pipe spilling exhaust under the van and not out the side. any small gaps or holes in the van will now be tiny exhaust leaks. for anyone following this post, please be advised.
 

Paul Eisenberg

New member
Getting ready to install my heater in T1N under passenger seat. The method shown at here is dangerous. The bracket moves the connections of the exhaust hose, fuel line and combustion air intake into the occupied space. 'Sealing the hoses and fuel tube ensures any leaks remain inside the habitable space. Don't do this. Instead use a turret that is sealed, and a silcone gasket between the turret and heater, then cut a larger hole in the floor for the turret cylinder. You can use the mounting bolts through the floor with extra nuts and washers to hold the turret at correct height you need. then seal around the turret where it meets the floor with high temp/fire stop rated sealant. This effectively makes the area under the heater part of the outdoors. Any leaks will be outside the occupied space, while the heater is still raised as desired. That install method defeats several of the safety features of the heater design, that assumes any leaks are not in the occupied space.

Be smart, be safe.
 

orihab

working on 2006 140"wb 2500 t1n conversion
"Curvy Road next 77 miles" Tough to beat on Ducati!



I LOVE (!!!) this layout. This is absolutely the most space efficient layout for more than 1 row of seating. I plan to do something similar in my 140" wb t1n. Do you still have this van? I would love to see some more details.
 

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