2006 Lost antifreeze but only high speed new head gasket

micgyver

New member
I have a 2006 T1N inline 5 2.7 with a new head gasket. It drove for 7 months and started spitting out antifreeze. I purchased new rad cap and hooked up bottle to catch the over flow. I find she'll spit out on high speed 100km or more and driving around town it's not as bad. I asked mechanic if he did a engine flush after replacing head gasket and he said he could only dump what was is the system and refill. Meaning no flush on system. I'm thinking either rad is plugged or fan clutch is no good again. I've had to put two in it since 2006 so maybe it's time again? Now also I put new water pump in and there's no trace of combustion in the rad either. We also ran it with pressure test and its normal when it's hot and in idol. If anyone can think of anything else please guide me to the post. Also it does not go above 80/85 c, so it's not saying it's overheating? Anything else I ad later. :thinking::thinking::bash:
 

Diesel Dork

Diesel Dork the Bio maker
Mivguver,
I just got mine at an auction in Phoenix AZ and drove it back to Napa CA. I couldn't go over 65 without it overheating on me. So I drove behind big rigs and pulled over to let it cool down after the light came on. The previous owner claimed he rebuilt the engine 50K mi ago but when I opened the expansion tank the water looked like dark rust had been in there for a while. Apparently the knuckle head was just putting tap water in it. So I have my doubts if he did have it rebuilt no paperwork came with it. And it's got about 425K mi on it. It looks like he changed the expansion cap from an 18 lb to a 20 lb.
I had it tested for fluorocarbon and that was negative so that's good. It idols for a long time and not overheat but does when going 60mph for about 10 minutes.
Next is the thermostat. Got a couple quotes for $60 & $75 but found them online for less? What brand is best for the money and which should I avoid? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
...
Next is the thermostat. Got a couple quotes for $60 & $75 but found them online for less? What brand is best for the money and which should I avoid? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
Want to try a thermostat element?

I've not tried this. It is raw information from PM discussion.

Other Member said:
Yep this is the real deal. I compared it with the local parts store assembly I 'ordered' and its a match. You have to compress the spring and kind of turn it + remove a little aluminum crossbar thingy.
Aqua Puttana said:
Interesting site.

http://shop.trucktec.name/

Search:
Use Mercedes model 903 bus
SPRINTER 3-T Bus (903)

Verify engine:
OM 647.981 Diesel 2685 *should* = NAFTA 2004 - 2006 Sprinter?

TRUCKTEC part number: 02.19.239

OM 647.981 Diesel 2685 .-. 60-130 (82-177) 5

87 C = 189F vs 195F OEM listed for NAFTA (close enough??)

They only list 611 and 646 engines on the Trucktec 02.19.239 thermostat cover page. Still, it's worth trying. It would really be interesting to compare the OEM vs Trucktec side by side to make certain they have similar dimensions, same jiggle valve, etc.

vic

I think youre looking under reference numbers tab. click the engines tab and you will see OM647
:cheers: vic
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
I feel posting this is like broken record.
First there are no short cuts or cheapy on line methods to fixing overheating its time to put hand in pocket and produce some cash!
To continue to allow the engine to overheat will result in severe engine failure then things get really expensive at $8000 plus to fix it.

I would suggest and cooling system flush using a dispersant from a parts store a rad flush liquid say by Prestone.
Throw away the thermostat & housing arr' and buy a new one from an MB dealer at $75, while in the store get a new radiator cap (0,8 bar) then but a new belt tensioner and guide rollers. Add about $250 for that lot!
Maybe being pro active a new viscous fan add $175
All this stuff should be changed every 100,000 miles anyway.
Now with it half apart, grill out of the way clean the radiator and charge cooler with dawn dish soap. pull the A/C away from the condenser and clean it. A gentle flowing hose pipe should dislodge dirt grass hopper guts and leaves etc. Try to spin the A/C fan by hand --does it spin freely?
If not throw it away, it plays a vital role in cooling..
Also the charge cooler covers about 75% of the radiator surface so a clean charge cooler will not only boost engine power but will allow the radiator to cool.
Inspect the radiator if it all bent up or doesn't look like it will cool invest in a new one --about $650 from the dealer (Beyr) or for around $250 for an Nissins aftermarket! .
OK got it back together.
Test the rig on an incline full bore open to elevate the temperature.
You should see the temperature rise to about 90 C then dip/pause as the stat opens then continue to rise to 100 where the fan should be come in play then if you should see the top pipe stabilize! Without stabilization see if the A/C fan has come on---If not more expenditure is needed to cool it.
The top pipe should stabilize at around 100 to 106 C
Dennis
 

Diesel Dork

Diesel Dork the Bio maker
I feel posting this is like broken record.
First there are no short cuts or cheapy on line methods to fixing overheating its time to put hand in pocket and produce some cash!
To continue to allow the engine to overheat will result in severe engine failure then things get really expensive at $8000 plus to fix it.

I would suggest and cooling system flush using a dispersant from a parts store a rad flush liquid say by Prestone.
Throw away the thermostat & housing arr' and buy a new one from an MB dealer at $75, while in the store get a new radiator cap (0,8 bar) then but a new belt tensioner and guide rollers. Add about $250 for that lot!
Maybe being pro active a new viscous fan add $175
All this stuff should be changed every 100,000 miles anyway.
Now with it half apart, grill out of the way clean the radiator and charge cooler with dawn dish soap. pull the A/C away from the condenser and clean it. A gentle flowing hose pipe should dislodge dirt grass hopper guts and leaves etc. Try to spin the A/C fan by hand --does it spin freely?
If not throw it away, it plays a vital role in cooling..
Also the charge cooler covers about 75% of the radiator surface so a clean charge cooler will not only boost engine power but will allow the radiator to cool.
Inspect the radiator if it all bent up or doesn't look like it will cool invest in a new one --about $650 from the dealer (Beyr) or for around $250 for an Nissins aftermarket! .
OK got it back together.
Test the rig on an incline full bore open to elevate the temperature.
You should see the temperature rise to about 90 C then dip/pause as the stat opens then continue to rise to 100 where the fan should be come in play then if you should see the top pipe stabilize! Without stabilization see if the A/C fan has come on---If not more expenditure is needed to cool it.
The top pipe should stabilize at around 100 to 106 C
Dennis
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the info. What about changing the Harmonic balancer being we have everything out. I just read there's a second noise and the horror stories about it going bad. The knuckle head that was the previous owner claimed to have had it rebuilt 50 K miles ago but he also put tap water in the radiator and it got all corroded which makes his claim very suspect at the least. :bash:
I just posted how I came to get my newest obsession. If you have a while give it a read.
 

Paul_E_D

New member
What brand thermostat is OEM? I mean, is it sold outside of dealerships under a certain brand? Mahle?
 

Diesel Dork

Diesel Dork the Bio maker
Paul E D,
I did get it from the dealership along with the other stuff that Dennis suggested. If there are other sources then please let me know. I don't want to skimp out on any crucial parts and from what I can surmise, they are all crucial parts. :thinking:
 

EvHarris7

New member
Just my $.02 on Nissin radiators, I bought my sprinter from the original owner with all service records and they used all OE parts for repairs, except for a Nissin radiator that was installed 6mo before I bought it. Fast forward 6 months after I own it and I am loosing coolant, turns out the tranny cooler failed in the 1 year old radiator and started dumping coolant into the transmission and tranny fluid in the coolant. Almost $6k later I have a new transmission and a MB radiator installed now.

Not worth saving $300 in my opinion, but then again I did not make the call when it was replaced the first time.

It might have been a isolated incident, but I only use MB parts now, and I have heard enough horror stories on these forums to reinforce that. Plus with many online vendors, they are pretty reasonably priced.
 

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