Hi All,
2007 NCV3 Dodge Sprinter
180a alternator
Factory installed Auxiliary battery.
2x 6 month Exide AGM Batteries.
Recent 25,000 mile trip FL to NM and back with no problems.
Ultra gage CODES:
U0101 –Lost Communication with TCM
U0423 – Invalid Data Reiceved From Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module
U0416 – Invalid Data Received From Vehicle Dynamics Control Module
U0103 – Lost Communication With Shift Control Module “A”
U110B - Lost Engine Collant Message
No start condition:
Insert key and wait for glow plug light to shut off.
Turn key to on position:
Result:
1-click from the Motor relay under the dash. Car won’t start.
Diagnostics:
Reset ECM disconecting negative battery terminal for 30 minutes until the clock reset.
Normal Battery voltage 12.8v
Normal Voltage drop to 11.8-12.6 during glowplugs and start procedure.
<.02 voltage drops across wires to starter, alternator ETC.
TCM cable housing bone dry at both ends (serviced with electronics cleaner and reattathced. (the transmission was serviced 2-years ago and the cable housing was replaced then)
Engine Ground Cable caked with dirt corrotion and grime. Cable removed, and treated with electronics cleaner and brushed to sparkle again; then reinstalled.
Y-Cable inspection, and and inspected for chaefing: no corossion or visible wear.
Last Trip History & additional notes:
Last month I went on a short trip and had an overheating scare 90 miles out. To be Safe I called a tow truck and a flatbed took me home. (It turned out that the Engine Coolant temperature sensorr, located under the turbo inlet pipe top Driver side of the motor was physically broken, a previous owner zip tied back together, most likely after trying to remove it, it was strongly adhered with corrosion).
That evening when the tow truck dropped me off, we started the van and parked it with no problems.
Several days later I could not successfully start the van.
NOTES:
Before the tow truck arrived that evening, I read that there was a relationship to the coolant sensor and the washer fluid sensor, so I toppedoff the washer fluid to see if it would effect the overheating alarm. It did effect the coolant temperature light, but A subsequent leak in the resiviour Filled the Frame with muck and grime over the following week and severely corroded the engine/frame ground connection preceding this no-start problem (as I mentioned above, this has been scrubbed spotless, and reinstalled).
When the Driver unhooked the van, a loud pop was heard when he disengaged theparking gear before backing it down. (again it did start successfully and went changed gears successfully that night during parking procedure).
During a trip a month earlier, I stalled at a toll both and noticed that when Pressed the fuse box with my foot it started itself back up again.
(this coorelates with similar experiences found in the thread). I’m not sure if that would be consistent with engine codes above or how to more thouroly test the fuse box itself (perhaps someone has a good test for me)
I have been following the extensive guide below:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/View-Navion/files/Chassis Service Tips/
As well as consulting threads with strong similarities such as:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43936
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=413582
where Smiller Said:
“Do you hear a relay click when you turn the key to the start position? If so, when you try to start again (without turning the key off) does it click again or do you hear nothing on subsequent attempts?”
^ I’d love to know what he where that would have gone, but in that thread something else turned out to fix the issue before that was answered.
Thank You,
Ben
2007 NCV3 Dodge Sprinter
180a alternator
Factory installed Auxiliary battery.
2x 6 month Exide AGM Batteries.
Recent 25,000 mile trip FL to NM and back with no problems.
Ultra gage CODES:
U0101 –Lost Communication with TCM
U0423 – Invalid Data Reiceved From Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module
U0416 – Invalid Data Received From Vehicle Dynamics Control Module
U0103 – Lost Communication With Shift Control Module “A”
U110B - Lost Engine Collant Message
No start condition:
Insert key and wait for glow plug light to shut off.
Turn key to on position:
Result:
1-click from the Motor relay under the dash. Car won’t start.
Diagnostics:
Reset ECM disconecting negative battery terminal for 30 minutes until the clock reset.
Normal Battery voltage 12.8v
Normal Voltage drop to 11.8-12.6 during glowplugs and start procedure.
<.02 voltage drops across wires to starter, alternator ETC.
TCM cable housing bone dry at both ends (serviced with electronics cleaner and reattathced. (the transmission was serviced 2-years ago and the cable housing was replaced then)
Engine Ground Cable caked with dirt corrotion and grime. Cable removed, and treated with electronics cleaner and brushed to sparkle again; then reinstalled.
Y-Cable inspection, and and inspected for chaefing: no corossion or visible wear.
Last Trip History & additional notes:
Last month I went on a short trip and had an overheating scare 90 miles out. To be Safe I called a tow truck and a flatbed took me home. (It turned out that the Engine Coolant temperature sensorr, located under the turbo inlet pipe top Driver side of the motor was physically broken, a previous owner zip tied back together, most likely after trying to remove it, it was strongly adhered with corrosion).
That evening when the tow truck dropped me off, we started the van and parked it with no problems.
Several days later I could not successfully start the van.
NOTES:
Before the tow truck arrived that evening, I read that there was a relationship to the coolant sensor and the washer fluid sensor, so I toppedoff the washer fluid to see if it would effect the overheating alarm. It did effect the coolant temperature light, but A subsequent leak in the resiviour Filled the Frame with muck and grime over the following week and severely corroded the engine/frame ground connection preceding this no-start problem (as I mentioned above, this has been scrubbed spotless, and reinstalled).
When the Driver unhooked the van, a loud pop was heard when he disengaged theparking gear before backing it down. (again it did start successfully and went changed gears successfully that night during parking procedure).
During a trip a month earlier, I stalled at a toll both and noticed that when Pressed the fuse box with my foot it started itself back up again.
(this coorelates with similar experiences found in the thread). I’m not sure if that would be consistent with engine codes above or how to more thouroly test the fuse box itself (perhaps someone has a good test for me)
I have been following the extensive guide below:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/View-Navion/files/Chassis Service Tips/
As well as consulting threads with strong similarities such as:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43936
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=413582
where Smiller Said:
“Do you hear a relay click when you turn the key to the start position? If so, when you try to start again (without turning the key off) does it click again or do you hear nothing on subsequent attempts?”
^ I’d love to know what he where that would have gone, but in that thread something else turned out to fix the issue before that was answered.
Thank You,
Ben