Newbie with 2005 Low Mileage Sprinter 21000 miles Service needed?

[cpumechanic3]

Hello

Engine bay is near pristine... clean.

Rad hoses look perfect.. have not carefully checked the serpentine belt.

Folks are suggesting:

Trans oil and filter change (including converter)
Replace all belts and radiator hoses, and of course the Radiator fluid.
Oil and filter change (will do this, last oil change by chain ,,, and I don't trust chains to do the job correctly)
Rear diff fluid




I have no issue replacing the parts.. but.. I also have a "if it is not broken, don't worry about it".

I have read that MB engines last a very long time, and go many more miles... is there reason to replace what appear to be parts that are just fine?

Do radiator hoses and the fluid really go bad in 10 years?

If yes.. no issue.. will replace..

Thanks in advance for feedback.

CPU

 

[rjz5400]

My humble opinion, yes some things are age related and not really milage dependent. rubber and plastic is one of them.

Also I would include inspecting the air filter housing for debris and blockage, replacing the air, cabin air, and fuel filters. So cheap compared to the cost of problems and you seem like the kind of girl/guy that will find the correct spec parts and install them correctly so it will be like you have a brand new sprinter!!

Congrats on the purchase and may I also say welcome and please update your signature with your model year, engine, size and whatever as it helps US, help YOU!

 

[CharlesinGA]

By all means open up the air filter box and vacuum it out and replace the filter. Even if not dirty, its probably half rotten by now. Same with cabin air filter, mine was full of leaves and crap, '06 motorhome with 18K miles on it, engine air filter was full of crap and lots of sand settled in the air box, both were original filters. I have already replaced the turbo hoses, and cut the end off the top fitting at the intake and installed the aluminum fitting that allows the hose to clamp on. Apparently a high failure area. My turbo resonator was already eliminated but if you still have the resonator, you probably need to either replace it or eliminate it, as the older ones fail.

I will be changing my coolant hoses sometime this year, and the serpentine belt also. 10 years is plenty enough, I used to do hoses and belts every two or three years on vehicles, but have extended that to 5 to 7 years as rubber products seem to have improved in recent years.

Transmissions are a higher failure item so you should consider that too. Buy yourself a dipstick and a case of Shell 134 fluid from your Shell oil distributor and go to town.

Don't forget the fuel filter too.

Charles

 

[slowgsr]

Crank pulley
Turbo hoses, lube linkage
Tensioner and idler pulley
Glow plugs /test & module
Filters, fluids. Air, oil, trans, diff.
You could do a leak off test to be sure, inspect for injector leakage (Black Death)

 

[tinman]

Storage conditions can be a big factor in deterioration of some soft parts. Faster in very hot climates.

 

[cpumechanic3]

Hello all

Thanks for the very specific suggestions.

Can you please elaborate on the need to change the crank pully? Seems odd to me.

I understand the idler and tensioner pulley

To start will be doing an oil and filter change, air filter change, fuel filter change. Doing research to ensure I get the proper MB approved parts , plan to use Mobil 1 0w40.

The manual says that the rad fluid is good for 15 years or 100K miles, so I think I will let that go for now.

Will also remove and check/replace the cabin air filter.

I saw some horror stories about the serpentine belts breaking and causing other problems.
Will replace that as well.

Have seen a lot of posts on the turbo resonator.. will see what I can do to remove/replace that just to avoid the worry.

Not exactly sure what needs lubrication under the hood, but will look for linkages and add some lithium grease spray.

Have the auto transmission filter, and have seen the forum suggestions on how best to change the fluid and remove/access the torque converter plug.

Thanks again.. looking forward to having fun with the new toy

CPU

05 TN1 Spinter Frame (winnebago view)

 

[seans]

Hello all

Thanks for the very specific suggestions.

Can you please elaborate on the need to change the crank pully? Seems odd to me.

I understand the idler and tensioner pulley

To start will be doing an oil and filter change, air filter change, fuel filter change. Doing research to ensure I get the proper MB approved parts , plan to use Mobil 1 0w40.

The manual says that the rad fluid is good for 15 years or 100K miles, so I think I will let that go for now.

Will also remove and check/replace the cabin air filter.

I saw some horror stories about the serpentine belts breaking and causing other problems.
Will replace that as well.

Have seen a lot of posts on the turbo resonator.. will see what I can do to remove/replace that just to avoid the worry.

Not exactly sure what needs lubrication under the hood, but will look for linkages and add some lithium grease spray.

Have the auto transmission filter, and have seen the forum suggestions on how best to change the fluid and remove/access the torque converter plug.

Thanks again.. looking forward to having fun with the new toy

CPU

05 TN1 Spinter Frame (winnebago view)

I would not mess with the crank pulley. There's a good chance that the mechanic replacing it will not torque it properly or will reuse the old bolt, and then you'll really have problems (up to and including replacing the crankshaft.)

Probably the best thing to do is not worry about this and enjoy your new ride, but very soon, identify one of the top Sprinter mechanics in the forum (Rodd or Dr. A or someone nearer you - be prepared to drive across several states) and schedule an appointment to have all the belts replaced, and have them change the transmission filter and fluid, fuel filter, and have them show you how to do your own oil change. That will give them an opportunity to check out things like the idler and tensioner pulleys, other hoses, and most of the major systems. They can also put a diagnostic scanner on it and look for other issues. A great first road trip!

I would say that the time and cost of doing that would be a small part of your new investment for such a low mileage vehicle. What luck!!!

 

[david_42]

My mechanic says to not worry about the turbo-resonator unless this is a motorhome. The only hose I've replaced in 12 years and 100K miles is the lower turbo hose. I have the hoses and serpentine belt checked every time I get the oil changed and have been told they're okay.

I did get the radiator fluid changed at 97K and the transmission's at 83K. I had to replace the glow plugs and module at 97K, although many people would just change the bad plugs.

If you do decide to have the transmission fluid changed and you notice a rumbling sound at low speeds with a cold transmission, do a search on "rumble strip noise". If it sounds correct, there is a minor modification that Doktor A came up with that eliminates the problem.

 

[cpumechanic3]

Hi everyone

Thanks.. I am learning a lot from this forum.. and have purchased and will replace the turbo resonator with the Amazon Dorman one that is reported to not fail.
I bought a larger oil drain pan, and will be replacing oil and filter, as well as gas and air filter. Will also bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid.

Still pondering changing the transmission fluid.. and filter.. have the new filter.. but I may just let a dealer do that since that component is failure prone.

Thanks again to all for the kind suggestions.. I am looking forward to spending some time on the road , and learning more about this ride.

Winnebago View 06 05 MB Sprinter platform.

CPU