2008 Dodge Sprinter 2500 3.0 Mercedes turbo diesel loss of power issue

[Roger1960]

I thought I might contribute to this forum in hopes that my experience would help someone else. I had problems with the turbo and loss of power. Seems the turbo would kick out and I would have trouble keeping speed going up hills. I think it's commonly known as "limp mode?" It also wouldn't down shift like it's suppose to. Well, after hours of research and the help of a friend, I finally got it fixed.
The fault codes I was getting was P0234: turbo overboost condition, P0473: Exhaust Pressure Sensor High and P0404: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance. I first replaced the fuel filter, but that didn't fix the problem. Then I replaced the air intake hose that runs from the air filter to the turbo since it had deteriorated at the turbo end due to high heat I suppose. That didn't fix it. Then I pulled out the EGR valve and did a cleaning on it. That didn't fix it. However, I wasn't sure if the position of the little butterfly gear was important or not, so I turned it 180 degrees thinking I had moved it out of position with the lower part of it. During this EGR maintenance and cleaning, I inspected and discovered a crack in the intercooler hose on the driver side just off the lower corner of the intercooler radiator, just in front of the tire. I discovered it to be known as the intercooler hose on the hot side. I repaired the crack with some duct tape and hose clamps.
After doing all that, I took it out on the road and I was finally successful in correcting the problem. I think the main problem was likely the EGR valve since after I took it out, I noticed some minor resistance when I tried pivoting the valve part.
The next day, I took the van on it's first 130 mile trip and after 100 of those miles, that's when my repair job on the intercooler hose blew and I drove around 50 mph getting home. So I'll have to park it for now till I get another hose.
I hope sharing this might help someone else who might be having the same problems. Being new to turbo diesels, I've gotten some education on how turbos work with these diesel engines.

 

[sailquik]

Roger1960,
I would suggest that the MAIN problem was the split in the intercooler hose.
That hose is pressurized to ~ 35 PSIA (~21 PSIG) when the actuator is signaled to provide full boost.
If the boost pressure does not increase to within the normal range for a particular % engine LOD and engine RPM
the ECM will put the entire engine management system into Limp Home Mode and normally light the CEL (Check Engine Light).
Hope this helps,
Roger

 

[Roger1960]

Well, everything was going okay, but now limp mode has come back with a code of p0473. What in the world could that be... I'm running out of patience now... :-(

 

[showkey]

Just an Internet guess......very likely you still have a EGR issue. Many of us have been there with EGR valve, EGR cooler, EGR temp sensors, EGR pressure sensors problems.
Second guess DPF issue or the DPF pressure sensor.

Have you checked for pending codes ?

 

[Roger1960]

Now I have other problems that came up today. I have a code P0473 and P0402 and it's going into limp mode again.... *SIGH* This is getting very irritating now.
When its cooler, it runs okay, but when it's warmed up it seems to act up now. This thing sure has been touchy lately.

 

[showkey]

Which scan tool are you using to retrieve the codes ?

P0402 gets back to EGR if it can be trust as a true code.

 

[sailquik]

Roger1960,
Ummm you keep putting out generic codes here.....they might mean some thing, and then again they may not apply at all.
You must be using a pretty generic diagnostic tool as you are not getting the real MB specific codes and no sub codes at all.
Might be worthwhile to take it to an authorized Mercedes Benz or Freightliner dealer and have them run the diagnostics before
you start replacing sensors and assemblies that may not be any part of the issue.
P0473 is a generic OBD-II DTC for Exhaust Pressure sensor High
P0402 is a generic OBD-II DTC for Excessive EGR Flow.
It seems that patching the turbo to intercooler hose may have helped the ovrboost/underboost condition, but
replacement of that hose (and if that one is burst, probably all the other turbocharger hoses on both sides of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler/ Intercooler) should
be replaced as well.
Your engine is never going to run correctly with any sort of boost leak.
The Exhaust Pressure Sensor reading high could be an indicator that your DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) is getting clogged and needs
a regeneration at an authorized shop that has the specialized diagnostic tools to preform a forced regeneration.
The EGR flow issue (if in fact it's really an issue as generic OBD-II DTC Codes are often way off target) might be something you can
DIY clean and make better.
Have you read up on the many posts here on how to remove and clean your EGR valve?
Hope this helps,
Roger

 

[Rob S]

How many miles on the rig? DPF certainly sounds like a possibility, if over 200k miles, or much sooner if there have been glow plug issues, or if wrong oil has been used.

Once you get it cleaned up, you might want to look at a GDE Eco tune for it, as that eliminates any future egr issues, and other fringe benefits as well

 

[Roger1960]

Sailquik, I did remove and clean the EGR valve well. I think I'm about to give up and just suck it up and take it to the garage and let someone else work on it. I've gotten so stressed and irritated over it that I"m to the point that I regret ever buying it now. Seems with all these sensors and electronic crap all over this thing, I'm not sure if buying a turbo diesel was a smart investment.
As far as a code reader, I did buy one that is blue toothed to my cell phone. It's how I'm getting the codes. I'm hoping like it was said by Rob S that a garage can find the specific problem instead of me second guessing on the generic codes.

 

[Cheyenne]

Then I pulled out the EGR valve and did a cleaning on it. That didn't fix it. However, I wasn't sure if the position of the little butterfly gear was important or not, so I turned it 180 degrees thinking I had moved it out of position with the lower part of it.

It could always be that you didn't get the EGR back together correctly?

Keith.

 

[Roger1960]

Well, here's an update... took the van to the Dodge dealer who has employed a diesel mechanic who specializes in this 3.0 Mercedes diesel motor. Well, after he checked it out, this was his description...
"Found code 2510 boost pressure regulator and 2527 EGR open. Found ABS dynamic sensor failed. EGR valve and EGR cooler temp sensor faulty. Found turbo faulty."
They assessed my repairs at $7,200.00 plus tax, which makes it around $7,866.00. That's replacing the turbo and EGR valve and a desoot clean of the system.
That is OUTRAGEOUS!
However, I can buy a brand new turbo and EGR valve on the internet, and pay myself the 8 hours it takes @$110.00 per hour ($880.00) they were going to charge and do the entire job they were going to do myself for just barely over $3,000.00! A difference of $4,880.00!!! That means I can do the job twice and still save $1,880.00!!!
This is why I have absolutely no faith and trust whatsoever in garages at the dealerships.
So I decided so far that I will take the old one off, check it over to see if it is repairable, if not, order the new one and replace it.
Any advice? Has anyone else done this? Thanks!

 

[Rob S]

I have not done or experienced any suchlike so far, but I have read a LOT on this and other forums.

I would be tempted to have them do everything EXCEPT the turbo first. Those hardly ever fail, but they can't work right if all the sensors are giving bad readings.

If you want to DIY, I would start with new EGR and and Sensors. Your EGR MAY be repairable and cleanable, but having messed with it already, it might be best to spring for a new one.

Only after all those things are done, would I even begin to pull the turbo off.

Hopefully, other with more experience will hop in here to confirm this.

 

[Roger1960]

That sounds like a good course of action. However, I asked them to explain why they thought there needed to be a total replacement of the turbocharger. They told me that the "variable vane actuator" is causing overboost. I have a feeling that a piece of the air tube that ran from the air filter to the turbo that was bad at the turbo end might have sucked in a small piece of it in the turbo and damaged it. I can't confirm that, but not sure.

 

[Roger1960]

I do have a question about the turbocharger... let's say a piece of the turbocharger comes loose for some reason. Would that piece make its way to the engine and cause me engine problems? Didn't know if there was a fail safe for that should it happen.

 

[lindenengineering]

Well, here's an update... took the van to the Dodge dealer who has employed a diesel mechanic who specializes in this 3.0 Mercedes diesel motor. Well, after he checked it out, this was his description...
"Found code 2510 boost pressure regulator and 2527 EGR open. Found ABS dynamic sensor failed. EGR valve and EGR cooler temp sensor faulty. Found turbo faulty."
They assessed my repairs at $7,200.00 plus tax, which makes it around $7,866.00. That's replacing the turbo and EGR valve and a desoot clean of the system.
That is OUTRAGEOUS!
However, I can buy a brand new turbo and EGR valve on the internet, and pay myself the 8 hours it takes @$110.00 per hour ($880.00) they were going to charge and do the entire job they were going to do myself for just barely over $3,000.00! A difference of $4,880.00!!! That means I can do the job twice and still save $1,880.00!!!
This is why I have absolutely no faith and trust whatsoever in garages at the dealerships.
So I decided so far that I will take the old one off, check it over to see if it is repairable, if not, order the new one and replace it.
Any advice? Has anyone else done this? Thanks!

Roger
Calm down!
First you need a second opinion, as in this life if it seems unreal get a second bid/opinion!
First a turbo for this engine is $3000 and it comes c/w the controller. There is a 6.5 hr book time to change it which will come to about $900 Labor, and add some gaskets and special bolts all one time use! So add a further $50!
Hence a turbo change out in isolation would amount to about $4000 with tax.
BUT
Turbos don't just fail they exhibit two salient problems , they pass oil into the engine due to wear, or something has happened to it mechanically.
Outside of that the other very salient set of problems are the THE THINGS within the engine control that end up controlling the turbo and ultimately power output.
So what codes do you have active and stored because they indicate in many a cases a string of occurrences indicating the root causes of the driveability problem you have.
Basically it starts with a full smoke test on the induction system looking for turbo leaks, the vehicle has numerous areas for it to allow loss of turbo boost.
What about the exhaust as the cat /Exhaust filter is the thing so choked up and can't breath. or euphemistically saying of mine "it can't take a dump!"
What about the EGR cooler and EGR valve itself! Is it so choked up that you have faults like P2623 which can run mechanics ragged unless he is VERY familiar with this engine?
So lots of areas to check and sounds like to me they "Dealer" was attempting to do a shotgun method approach to fix the rig.
A second opinion of required with code and performance print out. with a diagnostic chain conducted by the mechanic determining your current recommended course of repair activities.
This will corroborate the initial finding or recommend alternative, perhaps much cheaper remedies.
All the best
Dennis

 

[Man786]

Hi im new here
Well i have the same problem with my dodge 2008 sprinter losse of power if i push the gas peddle all the way to the end it run more then 50mph and also recently my heater went off out of sudden all the lights in the dash board comes on but not the heater.in this cold winter my cvan heater is gone . When i bought this sprinter the preowner played me didnt tell me it have losse of power issue now im stuck with it .any advice will be really appreciated thanks

 

[Roger1960]

Well, join the club here. You're welcome to read through the thread here concerning my experience. Will be glad to help. Here's some things to check... inspect for leaks on your air I take hose that runs from the air filter to the turbocharger. The turbocharger end may be bad since the turbocharger gets very hot. Also check large hose located below in front of tire on the driver side. It's large and shaped like a "p" trap. Any air leaks in the air cooling system for the turbocharger will cause loss of power. Also clean EGR valve that is located just to the right of the antifreeze reservoir holding tank.
So far this has been my experiences, but I'm still researching a continual problem. I may be looking at a turbocharger replacement, but I may replace my EGR first.

 

[danski0224]

Well, here's an update... took the van to the Dodge dealer who has employed a diesel mechanic who specializes in this 3.0 Mercedes diesel motor. Well, after he checked it out, this was his description...
"Found code 2510 boost pressure regulator and 2527 EGR open. Found ABS dynamic sensor failed. EGR valve and EGR cooler temp sensor faulty. Found turbo faulty."
They assessed my repairs at $7,200.00 plus tax, which makes it around $7,866.00. That's replacing the turbo and EGR valve and a desoot clean of the system.
That is OUTRAGEOUS!
However, I can buy a brand new turbo and EGR valve on the internet, and pay myself the 8 hours it takes @$110.00 per hour ($880.00) they were going to charge and do the entire job they were going to do myself for just barely over $3,000.00! A difference of $4,880.00!!! That means I can do the job twice and still save $1,880.00!!!
This is why I have absolutely no faith and trust whatsoever in garages at the dealerships.
So I decided so far that I will take the old one off, check it over to see if it is repairable, if not, order the new one and replace it.
Any advice? Has anyone else done this? Thanks!

Having owned a 2008 Dodge Sprinter myself, and after having repair work done to the vehicle post-divorce at a Dodge dealer, I would strongly suggest finding a local Mercedes Sprinter dealer with a commercial vehicle service business interest.

My experience almost 3 years ago leads me to believe that dealer sponsored training to remain current on what is essentially a Mercedes product is suspect. Dodge dealers have not sold a new Sprinter since 2010 and many are focused on the Ram branding for those vehicles.

Dodge dealer customer pay rates are no cheaper than Mercedes dealer customer pay rates, and in my area, Mercedes may actually be less.

To echo what Dennis stated, the turbo is a robust piece of hardware. It is not likely to simply take a $hit out of the blue.

If anything, I'd start with a diagnostic at a Mercedes dealership.

If you feel brave, change the EGR stuff and the sensors on your own. I don't know if the valve needs to be coded to the ECM after replacement.

There is no way that I would have any work performed at a Dodge dealership on a Sprinter. Nor would I replace a turbo until the other sensors were in-line.

 

[Roger1960]

Thanks to all that have contributed to my little thread here. But I have a question. I was beginning to wonder if the inter cooler could be clogged? I was looking it over and noticed that across the bottom of it is wet with oil. Is that normal? I'm getting the generic code of P0299 now.
Also, maybe I should look into changing the turbo resonator? I've seen some mention one that is new and improved, made of aluminum instead of plastic. But does anyone know where that resonator is on the 2008 3.0 Mercedes diesel?
Additionally, I would like to ask if anyone might think that the diesel particulate filter might need attention? Wonder what codes would go off for that. As I said, right now I'm just seeing the generic code P0299.

 

[Roger1960]

Hi im new here
Well i have the same problem with my dodge 2008 sprinter losse of power if i push the gas peddle all the way to the end it run more then 50mph and also recently my heater went off out of sudden all the lights in the dash board comes on but not the heater.in this cold winter my cvan heater is gone . When i bought this sprinter the preowner played me didnt tell me it have losse of power issue now im stuck with it .any advice will be really appreciated thanks

About your heater... is it blowing air and no heat? I had no heat too, but found the problem. First go to the passenger side and locate aluminum pipes looking up center behind lower dash off the floorboard. If after warm up the pipes are hot, then it could be the actuator that opens the damper for hot air to flow. Mine was not working. It's location is on the driver side looking up in the general area. The dial temperature setting regulates that actuator and allows certain amount of hot air flow to your vents. I was able to repair mine by taking it loose, removing it, and simply opening the casing and give it some lubrication on the gears. I think it simply was locked up from lack of use during the summer maybe. After I did those repairs, I have all kinds of heat now.