Just thought I would document some of my van build since reading what others have done has been helpful to me. We got the van as an incredible deal even though we weren't really looking for one but since it fell into our lap how could we say no. That said we don't have a huge budget for the build and since we will mostly be using the van for weekend get aways and some possible longer trips to ski or bike we are trying to keep it inexpensive and simple.
By the way, our van was a passenger van so windows all though out and air conditioner unit in place. It also had the espar D5 heater that only works when the engine is on and the temp is below 39 degree. What a bad design that is for anyone that wants to live in their van. Gonna have to replace that sometime.
So insulating was the first step. After spending more time then I ever wanted to on the forums reading about other peoples thoughts on insulation I decided to go with a mix of things (one to use some of the insulation that was already in the van - along with sound-deading and two, to experiment with some different types to see how it works in real life vs theory). The pros (up fitters) seem to use either ultra touch cotton denim or just straight up pink fiberglass batting.
Other DYI'ers have used all sorts of things but spray foam and denim seem to be the most popular along with reflectix. If I am remembering a study that was done by NASA comparing foil layers to plastic bags in terms of heat retention (emergency shelters) there wasn't much difference so I decided to skip the reflectix and save the cost. I am sure there are benefits to it but once again I needed to consider cost and simplicity. It is a van after all and unless one is willing to give up some space to create real thermal breaks between the conductive metal walls, ribs etc it seems to me that there will always be a lot of heat loss to the outside. The goal is to slow it down as much as reasonable.
The other big issue is moisture build up on the metal when sleeping in cold conditions which we will be doing. I have slept many many years in the bed of my 1992 Toyota truck which had an aluminum topper on it. I insulated the topper by glueing foam pads in between the ribs. The pads worked great, however moisture would still build up on the ribs but quickly dry out with the sun. Funny but I never really had moisture build up on the sides of the metal truck bed and I wonder if this had something to do with paint, doesn't really seem like that would be the case so it was probably due to something else. Anyway my truck bed has seen years of moisture abuse and there is no rust present on the inside of it although thanks to Idaho's new policy of salting the roads in the winter, the outside of my truck is oxidizing like never before.
I know it is popular to add a vapor barrier between the panels and the insulation but I am worried that any moisture that gets past the vapor barrier just becomes permanently stuck between the metal walls (impermeable) and the vapor barrier - which without a lot of care, glue and tape will only be somewhat impermeable. So I decided to not go the vapor barrier route in the hopes that while some moisture might build up inside the metal walls (or will it be like my truck) it can also dry out once the sun is out or the heat is running. Plus it's an experiment so I can see what things look like in a year or so when maybe I will redo some of it, depending on what is working or not.
Anyway - my van had cotton batting in the sides but it wasn't very thoroughly done so there were plenty of gaps. I therefore decided to consolidate the cotton batting from above the windows to fill in the holes below the windows. This done I had some cotton batting that I would use later to insulate around the air conditioner with all its hoses. Sorry no pictures of the insulation below the windows but its pretty simple and lots of other pictures out there of others doing this.
So I decided to fill the now empty space between the windows and roof with foam board. I choose blue board since it is easy to get in rural Idaho and does not loose its R value like some of the foil sided foam boards which start with a higher R value but loose it with time. I used Great Stuff Pro to glue the blue board to the walls and roof and seal the edges which sure could act like a good vapor barrier. I mostly used the red or Gaps and Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant but I think for foaming inside the ribs or other tight, hard to get to places the lower pressure Window and Door Foam Insulating Foam Sealant (in blue can but green as it comes out) works way better. Note to self to do it this way next time. The advantage of the Pro stuff is that you don't need to use the whole can in one shot, you can pause etc. Don't forget to buy some cleaner for the foam gun as well so you can clean the gun between cans or when you are done.
Of course this process took longer then working with the batts but I also figured most of the moisture is going to wind up here as well so it is probably worth the extra effort. I did leave a couple of spaces filled with cotton batt so we'll see how that looks down the road as well.
Lastly I was running out of time to get the insulation part done in the heated space I had available so with the doors and and cab headliner I wound up getting some eco batt (I was going to use cotton batt but couldn't get locally) that I was able to score on my last call to all the insulators and building supply stores within an hours drive. Eco batt is a lot more friendly to work with then regular fiberglass batts and a lot of green construction folks tend to use it in interior walls and between floor joists as sound deadening. I have it in my house.
So with that installed I am now done with the first part of the build. It will be interesting to see what holds up and if I have moisture problems or not in the next year. Still a ways off before I can take it on that ski trip to Rogers pass though.
By the way, our van was a passenger van so windows all though out and air conditioner unit in place. It also had the espar D5 heater that only works when the engine is on and the temp is below 39 degree. What a bad design that is for anyone that wants to live in their van. Gonna have to replace that sometime.
So insulating was the first step. After spending more time then I ever wanted to on the forums reading about other peoples thoughts on insulation I decided to go with a mix of things (one to use some of the insulation that was already in the van - along with sound-deading and two, to experiment with some different types to see how it works in real life vs theory). The pros (up fitters) seem to use either ultra touch cotton denim or just straight up pink fiberglass batting.
Other DYI'ers have used all sorts of things but spray foam and denim seem to be the most popular along with reflectix. If I am remembering a study that was done by NASA comparing foil layers to plastic bags in terms of heat retention (emergency shelters) there wasn't much difference so I decided to skip the reflectix and save the cost. I am sure there are benefits to it but once again I needed to consider cost and simplicity. It is a van after all and unless one is willing to give up some space to create real thermal breaks between the conductive metal walls, ribs etc it seems to me that there will always be a lot of heat loss to the outside. The goal is to slow it down as much as reasonable.
The other big issue is moisture build up on the metal when sleeping in cold conditions which we will be doing. I have slept many many years in the bed of my 1992 Toyota truck which had an aluminum topper on it. I insulated the topper by glueing foam pads in between the ribs. The pads worked great, however moisture would still build up on the ribs but quickly dry out with the sun. Funny but I never really had moisture build up on the sides of the metal truck bed and I wonder if this had something to do with paint, doesn't really seem like that would be the case so it was probably due to something else. Anyway my truck bed has seen years of moisture abuse and there is no rust present on the inside of it although thanks to Idaho's new policy of salting the roads in the winter, the outside of my truck is oxidizing like never before.
I know it is popular to add a vapor barrier between the panels and the insulation but I am worried that any moisture that gets past the vapor barrier just becomes permanently stuck between the metal walls (impermeable) and the vapor barrier - which without a lot of care, glue and tape will only be somewhat impermeable. So I decided to not go the vapor barrier route in the hopes that while some moisture might build up inside the metal walls (or will it be like my truck) it can also dry out once the sun is out or the heat is running. Plus it's an experiment so I can see what things look like in a year or so when maybe I will redo some of it, depending on what is working or not.
Anyway - my van had cotton batting in the sides but it wasn't very thoroughly done so there were plenty of gaps. I therefore decided to consolidate the cotton batting from above the windows to fill in the holes below the windows. This done I had some cotton batting that I would use later to insulate around the air conditioner with all its hoses. Sorry no pictures of the insulation below the windows but its pretty simple and lots of other pictures out there of others doing this.
So I decided to fill the now empty space between the windows and roof with foam board. I choose blue board since it is easy to get in rural Idaho and does not loose its R value like some of the foil sided foam boards which start with a higher R value but loose it with time. I used Great Stuff Pro to glue the blue board to the walls and roof and seal the edges which sure could act like a good vapor barrier. I mostly used the red or Gaps and Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant but I think for foaming inside the ribs or other tight, hard to get to places the lower pressure Window and Door Foam Insulating Foam Sealant (in blue can but green as it comes out) works way better. Note to self to do it this way next time. The advantage of the Pro stuff is that you don't need to use the whole can in one shot, you can pause etc. Don't forget to buy some cleaner for the foam gun as well so you can clean the gun between cans or when you are done.
Of course this process took longer then working with the batts but I also figured most of the moisture is going to wind up here as well so it is probably worth the extra effort. I did leave a couple of spaces filled with cotton batt so we'll see how that looks down the road as well.
Lastly I was running out of time to get the insulation part done in the heated space I had available so with the doors and and cab headliner I wound up getting some eco batt (I was going to use cotton batt but couldn't get locally) that I was able to score on my last call to all the insulators and building supply stores within an hours drive. Eco batt is a lot more friendly to work with then regular fiberglass batts and a lot of green construction folks tend to use it in interior walls and between floor joists as sound deadening. I have it in my house.
So with that installed I am now done with the first part of the build. It will be interesting to see what holds up and if I have moisture problems or not in the next year. Still a ways off before I can take it on that ski trip to Rogers pass though.
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