Led 3rd Brake light
- Thread starter Mike5999
- Start date
Tooth Fairy
Away with the fairies.
You would have to be based in China to compete as there are lots for sale on ebay. 
lindenengineering
Well-known member
"Yrst Al"
AND
AL you bring up a point!
May I remind you all that putting the wrong bulbs and lights on Sprinters can (operative word) have some strange result like brake torque reaction faults which affect gear shifting performance amongst other things.
Only yesterday did I have a 2008 906 in the shop with an ABS fault, and the owner operator has a code reader by which he had DIY'd all four brake sensors trying to eliminate/eradicate an errant fault.
Turned out he had changed the sensors in vain!
Cost at $175 on average a pop multiply by four and that is a fair chunk of change!
Turned out is had the wrong bulbs in it!
Job fixed for some bulbs ( 4 off at $8,20 each--Made in China) or some "luverly" Sylvanias even Hella's at $12,50 a pop.
Buyer beware
Might I wager Al some might end up as garbage in them thar trash trucks you fix?
Cheers Dennis
AND
AL you bring up a point!
May I remind you all that putting the wrong bulbs and lights on Sprinters can (operative word) have some strange result like brake torque reaction faults which affect gear shifting performance amongst other things.
Only yesterday did I have a 2008 906 in the shop with an ABS fault, and the owner operator has a code reader by which he had DIY'd all four brake sensors trying to eliminate/eradicate an errant fault.
Turned out he had changed the sensors in vain!
Cost at $175 on average a pop multiply by four and that is a fair chunk of change!
Turned out is had the wrong bulbs in it!
Job fixed for some bulbs ( 4 off at $8,20 each--Made in China) or some "luverly" Sylvanias even Hella's at $12,50 a pop.
Buyer beware
Might I wager Al some might end up as garbage in them thar trash trucks you fix?
Cheers Dennis
Tooth Fairy
Away with the fairies.
Im always on the look out for treasure Dennis......
autostaretx
Erratic Member
At least Mike posted his question/offer in a T1N thread, which doesn't have the "stunningly smart" lamp control systems of the NCV3.
In the T1N the high stop light is directly controlled by the mechanical contacts in the brake pedal switch. No brainy bits.
However that same circuit, although spliced to both right and left tail light assemblies, also is the feed into (or from, it's unclear) the AntiLock Brake Controller (ABC, pin 32). Since the ABC also looks at one of the other set of three contacts in the brake pedal (via pin 20), i suspect that "tell me twice" is part of what can kill cruise control (among other symptoms) if one set doesn't match what the others are saying.
Either way, it's always an "experiment" to play with different light bulb characteristics in a Sprinter.
--dick
In the T1N the high stop light is directly controlled by the mechanical contacts in the brake pedal switch. No brainy bits.
However that same circuit, although spliced to both right and left tail light assemblies, also is the feed into (or from, it's unclear) the AntiLock Brake Controller (ABC, pin 32). Since the ABC also looks at one of the other set of three contacts in the brake pedal (via pin 20), i suspect that "tell me twice" is part of what can kill cruise control (among other symptoms) if one set doesn't match what the others are saying.
Either way, it's always an "experiment" to play with different light bulb characteristics in a Sprinter.
--dick
What Autostaretx Dick said.
Also.
Why not just use replacement LED lamps which are currently (pun intended) available?
The cost of LED style replacement lamps in various configurations continues to trend downward.
vic
P.S. - My GUESS is that replacing the high stop light lamps with LED's may fall under the less sophisticated T1N lamp monitoring radar. But as Dick said, it's an experiment until verified.
Also.
Why not just use replacement LED lamps which are currently (pun intended) available?
The cost of LED style replacement lamps in various configurations continues to trend downward.
vic
P.S. - My GUESS is that replacing the high stop light lamps with LED's may fall under the less sophisticated T1N lamp monitoring radar. But as Dick said, it's an experiment until verified.
jmoller99
Own a DAD ODB2 Unit.
I switched to an LED Red light assembly many years ago as my original roof brake light was cracked and missing a few pieces of plastic (and leaky when it was raining out). It has never had any problems, other than the holes not lining up with the original brake light. I got my Red LED light at an autoparts store. Very Simple. I used some aluminum tape (Harbor Freight) to preseal the opening before putting the LED assembly in place.
While a led 3 light is interesting, a led light 3 light with integrated cheap Chinese backup camera (ie easy/cheap to replace when the camera fails) would be very hard to resist...
I've thought about 3d printing my own mount...it it came out decent putting it on Shapeways or Thingyiverse so others could print their own.
I've thought about 3d printing my own mount...it it came out decent putting it on Shapeways or Thingyiverse so others could print their own.
I replaced the backup lights and tail/brake lights with LED's and loved them until I drove it.
Very pronounced hesitation and surging under light throttle. Especially with turn signal or hazards on.
Cruise Control works unless you put on a turn signal or hazard but only with the headlight switch turned on. This is despite the daytime running lights being always on.
Very weird. I'll be pulling these back out and replacing with new old fashioned bulbs.
I was really hoping to improve the reverse lighting.
Turn signals are normal bulbs, non LED.
Very pronounced hesitation and surging under light throttle. Especially with turn signal or hazards on.
Cruise Control works unless you put on a turn signal or hazard but only with the headlight switch turned on. This is despite the daytime running lights being always on.
Very weird. I'll be pulling these back out and replacing with new old fashioned bulbs.
I was really hoping to improve the reverse lighting.
Turn signals are normal bulbs, non LED.
Tooth Fairy
Away with the fairies.
If you dont use the rear window demist then you have a ready power source at your finger tips so to speak, 30 amps I believe so more than adequate for the job.